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General Climbing Discussion

Topic Date User

Bailing on a trad route, past halfway on your rope 8-Sep-2013 At 8:17:21 AM mikllaw

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all good ideas, I like 4.
- Down-climbing is the ultimate form of protection on scary traD (my baby hit the keyboard and invented a new word here, like jamB; I'll have to tell macca)
-I wouldn't trust the down-prussic idea unless you'd tested that prussic/rope size combination for falling loads (they are generally ok for bodyweight)
- as said earlier, it depends on the gear.
- being lowered puts almost twice the load as lowering yourself
- if you put 2 ropes through 2 seperate pieces if halves the load again

if we assume that the three top pieces will each take bodyweight, I'd equalise them all and set up an abseil on the 2 ropes tied together and threaded so you can pull them down.

Have the belayer keep you on belay and rap on munter hitches (probably each rope on a seperate biner, stagger the hieghts of the biners so they don't jamb). Munters because they are reversible and have enugh friction to catch a fall.

keep one hand on each side of the munter, so that, if the top anchor fails, you can hold the new anchor strand and brake the rope running through your runners and down to the belayer (who is giving you a bludysoft catch)