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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

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cams or hexs


skink

27-Apr-2009
8:46:45 PM

Score for Bl@ke!!!!!

Regarding hexes - I would recommend the Wild Country Rockcentrics - dearer than other options but with your cam deal now set up you can get the best hexes at the start! Though wouldn't bother with the super large sizes - 3,4,5,6 are the ones I use the most.

Or wait for these babies to be available...
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?pid=5&pid2=202

bl@ke

27-Apr-2009
9:08:12 PM

hey hey well with my score i can now spend more money on hexs, nuts, slings,tri cams or whatever. woohoo! more gear!
Andesite do you know where i can get singles of wildcountry hexs because i can only find the 7 pack from steve.

Wendy

28-Apr-2009
9:48:55 AM

I wouldn't get too excited about the tri-cams. I know some people love them, but whilst they are kind of cute in the right placement, i have never, not even once, not carried them and wished that i had. Nor have I ever carried them and been eternally grateful that I carried them because absolutely nothing else was going in. I may get stomped on for this, but I reckon they are novelty gear - stuff I like to place for the fun of placing it, like slider nuts and other esoterica. Andunless you are leading 20+ at Araps, the RPs could wait til you are climbing harder (prepare for onslaught of criticism from Simey ...). I really don't place mine that often and usually you know the route will need them before you get on it and can scab a few of a friend.

Hexes on the other hand, whilst I don't carry them much as I have heaps of cams, I do occasionally wish I had carried (usually for slots that flare on the inside) and when I do carry them, place the medium and large sizes a lot. But I don't like the wired ones. I adore the 7 rockentric that I found as booty.

You could get the full set of hexes from steve and owl's cams (bloody great score, that one!) for less than you originally intended paying for cams - why not get both now? Then I'd double up on the mid range cams (go out and use them first and see which size you place all the time) and get the odd extra wire up to 2 full sets (you might find them as booty!) and 14-5 draws is nice for long pitches if you don't have that many. A handful of slings are worth way more than their weight in gold. With that, you should be able to get yourself up almost anything!


Eduardo Slabofvic

28-Apr-2009
10:40:12 AM

I'm with Wendy on the Tricam front. I use them reasonably often, but more for the art than anything else, the same goes with Hexs. If I'm trying someting thats on my limit, then I revert back to what I know best, wires and spring loaded cams.

You can get away with out RP's on sub-20s, as suggested by Wendy, because on most of those routes you'll find plenty of other options, however, RPs are still great. They are front and centre on my rack at Araps.

I've never used the Rockcentrics, but they do look good.

The thing that turns me off Tricams/hexs/Rockcentrics is that you are holding the nut to place it, as opposed to "wires" where you are holding the wire, thus having a little more reach/manouverability whilst placing it; e.g. I couldn't place a small hex deep in a parallel sided crack because my hands are too big.

I have a wired 3 hex, but the presence of the wire seems to negate some of the camability (my word for the day) of the hex. I wonder what the Rockcentrics would be like if they were on a wire and not a sling.

There is a brand of hex that is on a wire, does anyone out there use them? How do you find them?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

28-Apr-2009
10:50:51 AM

Wendy wrote;
>I wouldn't get too excited about the tri-cams. I know some people love them, but whilst they are kind of cute in the right placement, i have never, not even once, not carried them and wished that i had. Nor have I ever carried them and been eternally grateful that I carried them because absolutely nothing else was going in. I may get stomped on for this, but I reckon they are novelty gear - stuff I like to place for the fun of placing it,

That's OK, and I guess reflects the medium/location/grades you climb on mostly.

Not that it is relevant to the original post, but if I was to be limited to an ultra skinny rack, ... say 10 pieces of pro (max); I would include tricams in the mix of nuts/hexes/cams that would make up such a kit.
The cams would be Omega Pacific Link cams x 2 sizes; tricams #1-4, Offset RP's #'s3 & 4 ; and a nut and a hex to flesh out the sizes not covered adequately by the above!
All would be on their own slings with a dedicated krab.
Combine this with 4 quickdraws and four slings (2 med & 2 long), with their own krabs and ~> such a 'rack' would be more than adequate for many shorter climbs at places like Buffalo; and for long slab routes there, one can still often have left overs after making a belay!

Having said that, most of my climbing partners would attest that I tend to do the aid climber thing and take the equivalent of an overkill quad-triple rack. I would add that many of them do the same, so I guess we are keeping fit!
My excuse for going lighter these days is that for a quick social trip a m/cycle tends to limit the amount of gear one can carry!


ajfclark

28-Apr-2009
11:05:15 AM

On 28/04/2009 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>There is a brand of hex that is on a wire, does anyone out there use them? How do you find them?

BD hexcentrics are wired. I have sizes 4-9 or something (though I frequently don't carry the larger 2 or 3). Some thoughts on them:

I find them quite similar to placing nuts though I find camming placements are a little more fiddly (if you're just remote controlling the thing with the wire, if you can get your hand in it's just as fiddly as placing a hex).
The wire does get in the way in some placements.
I do find I can get them places I wouldn't get a slung hex as you can shuffle them around with the wire.
I find them easier to clean for the same reason.
There aren't as strong as the slung versions, even in the larger sizes they're only rated to 10kn (or the wire is at least) but I'm happy with that, so are my wires etc.
I like them and use them in preference to cams when I have a decent stance to place them from (Actually, it's probably more that when I'm not at a good stance I'd prefer to be placing a cam and hence when I have a good stance I'll place the hex to save the cam for later.).


Climboholic

28-Apr-2009
1:43:42 PM

I'm with Wendy. I would be careful about recommending tri-cams to a begginer. They are harder to place (and remove) than a SLCD and it takes some know how to recognise a good placement.
Although I don't agree with this statement:
> i have never,
>not even once, not carried them and wished that i had. Nor have I ever
>carried them and been eternally grateful that I carried them because absolutely
>nothing else was going in.
There have been times where I've been very thankful they were on my rack because my camalots wouldn't go in anywhere. I think tri-cams are a good option to back up sizes of SLCD's.

Good luck Blake. Buying new gear is fun.

bl@ke

28-Apr-2009
6:24:39 PM

ah ha more pointers thanks everyone. with my bargain i shall get a few hexs (4ish) a sling or two a couple of locking crabs a few more nuts and somethin else any suggestions to what thet something could be? maybe some petzl mini accenders?


SwineOfTheTimes

28-Apr-2009
7:31:31 PM

36v DeWalt

Paul

28-Apr-2009
7:44:21 PM

prussics
a nut tool


mattjr

28-Apr-2009
8:17:32 PM

a copy of "Rock climbing anchors: a comprehensive guide" by Craig Luebben.(So you live a full life)


wallwombat

28-Apr-2009
8:24:04 PM

An esky and a fake ID.


Organ Pipe

28-Apr-2009
8:48:12 PM

A Helmet.

bl@ke

28-Apr-2009
9:05:38 PM

ok i have a helmate and a nut tool, the esky and fake i.d sounds good :) the petzl tibloc is apperantly a metal prussic (sort of) like it does the same thing.

tas alex

28-Apr-2009
9:49:29 PM

On 28/04/2009 bl@ke wrote:
> the petzl tibloc is apperantly a metal prussic (sort of) like it does
>the same thing.

yes and no. prussicks work both ways, as in you can release them and slide them along the rope either up or down. tibloc only goes up unless you take it off the rope. learn with prussicks then buy a tibloc further down the track.


skink

28-Apr-2009
9:52:55 PM

don't bother with the tibloc's - you will never use them - unless you want an over-priced bottle opener. A pair of prussiks loops made from rated cord are more versatile and way cheaper if you want some self-rescue gear on your harness (which you probably should - at least a pair of prussiks).

I am a fan of extendable quickdraws aka alpine draws/trad draws so I'd say get a few of those if you want to spend some more after the hexes and cams.


belayslave

28-Apr-2009
11:01:16 PM

I've not used a Tibloc personally, however a friend used one on a relatively new rope and absolutely
shreaded it. what his ascending technique was like - i'm not sure?! however if using a tibloc i'd be
very careful and make sure you weight it slowly ensuring it bites fully and doesn't drag down the sheath.

My preference would be for a good couple of prusiks, a couple of karabiners, and a good working
knowledge of how to use it all!

If wanting to splash out, maybe a Petzl Microcender or Mini-Traxion as a rope grab, and a petzl
osciallante or Ultralegere as a pulley.

hero

28-Apr-2009
11:08:59 PM

Hey Swine, How does it feel to have a pandemic named after you?


ambyeok

29-Apr-2009
7:43:49 AM

How many nut sets do you have? A second set of nuts like Wallnuts or Rocs will defintely come in handy. Nothing sucks like passing over a bomber nut placement cause you ran out of that size (but dont forget that nuts fit both flat and on their side).Thinking about top rope? How about 10m of static and a rope protector. Prusics (cheap). Personally I favor the simplicity of a 4m dynema sling for belays (SERENE debate continues, but IMHO simple to set up = safe for beginners, whatever belay setup you choose pick one that is easy and safe that you learn well and use every time, then learn other setups, but if you only have a single 4m sling and are reliant on it for belays you will get stuck on multipitch). Then buy a car, a house, a mistress, etc.


evanbb

29-Apr-2009
9:39:16 AM

On 28/04/2009 andesite wrote:
>don't bother with the tibloc's - you will never use them

Probably right, but I carry one anyway. Makes a haul scenario heaps easier, but that's really only a concern on multi pitch routes. They're quite light, and I didn't think they were that pricey?

There are 92 messages in this topic.