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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

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I may be slapped for asking this

patto

2-Apr-2009
3:31:34 PM

On 2/04/2009 climbau wrote:
>I read your post to mean that:
> (assuming belayer is right-handed) when your right hand is locked off
>and you are wanting to lower a
>leader that you maintain grip on the rope with right hand and move it
>towards the belay device. Then
>when your right hand gets to a certain point the left hand comes across
>and grips the rope (thumb
>down) below the the right hand. Next remove the right hand and let the
>left move towards belay
>device(without losing grip of the rope. repeat until leader is on the
>ground.

That is largely correct, thought I have no idea why you would have your thumb down that does seem awkward!

>I find this a rather bizzare(not to mention awkward) method and certainly
>would not want my belayer
>working on perfecting this method when lowering me. I certainly discouraged
>beginner climbers from
>using this method when guiding.
>
>Of course this is all just my humble opinion.

The one thing I advocate for beginners in lowering is two hands on the brake rope. I think we can agree on that.

By using hand over hand OR hand sliding you maintain a static grip of the rope at all times. For this reason you have more control over the lowering. Though as has already made clear this method is likely not as smooth as using dyanamic friction of your hands. Incidently Petzl advocates the two handed hand shuffling method when lowering from a top rope.
http://www.petzl.com/files/all/technical-notice/Sport/D17_REVERSO3_D175000F.pdf

There are more than one (safe) ways to skin a cat. :-)

On 2/04/2009 hipster wrote:
>
>Not sure of your terminology, it's not correct.. The correct position
>of the rope in the full brake position is through your belay device of
>choice and the down one side of your body, which ever side you chose, with
>your braking hand clamped around the rope and positioned towards the middle
>of your backside. It's not in front of you. You gain extra friction from
>the rope against your clothing.

The greatest friction through a device is achieved at a 180 degree alignment. This puts you hands below the device (assuming a vertical load). Again this is what petzl recommends for belaying and abseiling. But again, using your body for additional friction can be helpful if that is what you want.

Going back to the original question. If you want to keep you hands cool when lowering you will need a glove or to use two hands and use the static friction of your hands.

devlin66

2-Apr-2009
10:22:16 PM

Cookie,

I was in Big W today in Brisbane and they have some gardening gloves that are a close fit. They have a soft leather inside with knitted outside and a velcro closure. I didn't grab any today but I reckon they might be the go for what you want. $20 as well so they are reasonably cheap.

Edit : Bugger they are Jamie Durie gloves, not sure if I can bring myself to wear them now. They are $15 too.

Look here and scoll down


Cookie

3-Apr-2009
10:08:53 AM

>Edit : Bugger they are Jamie Durie gloves, not sure if I can bring myself
>to wear them now. They are $15 too.
>

they look pretty good, might go check them out... i think i might overlook the celebrity tag for the low price... but seriously... what celebrity will sell out next?

devlin66

3-Apr-2009
10:53:29 AM

Wetwideandslippery. He's going digital

widewetandslippery

3-Apr-2009
11:39:37 AM

Always been digital mate, me and Mrs Palmer and her five daughters have always been tight.


ajfclark

3-Apr-2009
1:52:55 PM

On 3/04/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Always been digital mate, me and Mrs Palmer and her five daughters have always been tight.

So you have soft girly hands? ;-P

widewetandslippery

3-Apr-2009
2:03:43 PM

On 3/04/2009 ajfclark wrote:

>
>So you have soft girly hands? ;-P

No but they bleed sometimes, maybe I should wear gloves?

devlin66

3-Apr-2009
2:18:47 PM

On 3/04/2009 widewetandslippery wrote:
>Always been digital mate, me and Mrs Palmer and her five daughters have
>always been tight.

So you get frequent finger locks then?

JohnK

3-Apr-2009
4:13:27 PM

Go low cost and get some nice latex gloves like this with excellent feel - available from most Supermarkets for about $5.75. Also double up nicely as garden and general outdoor gloves.

http://www.vileda.com.au/product_detail.php?cat_id=17&sub_id=46&prod_id=96


Cookie

15-Apr-2009
8:48:48 AM

ROFL.. i had a lovely (and unexpected) solution for the burning hands issue :P

my partner lost weight!

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