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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

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Poll Option Votes Graph
Clip belay loop 66
81% 
Clip into waistbelt and legloops 15
19% 

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 82
Author
clip belay loop or harness?

anthonyk
11/12/2008
11:07:46 AM
i don't like belaying off the harness loops because it seems like the locking thingy on the carabiner could end up getting pushed around by the loop thing more easily as the loops want to sit further apart.

and it just doesn't feel nice, everythings cramped up & not so easy to see whats going on.

On 11/12/2008 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>harness............McSpat.

also another name for a lot of the burgers you've been served up by pimply teenagers at micky d's

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/12/2008
11:16:16 AM
On 11/12/2008 anthonyk wrote:
>it just doesn't feel nice, everythings cramped up & not so easy to see whats going on.

This is even more the case in aid climbing, and worse still in aid roped-solo!

anthonyk
11/12/2008
11:53:52 AM
On 11/12/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 11/12/2008 anthonyk wrote:
>>it just doesn't feel nice, everythings cramped up & not so easy to see
>whats going on.
>
>This is even more the case in aid climbing, and worse still in aid roped-solo!
>

or the back of a volkswagen

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/12/2008
12:35:19 PM
>or the back of a volkswagen

Luxury!

Why when I were a lad we usta fit a party of four in there with all our gear for a week and-

Heh, heh, heh.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Post edit for an anthonyk comment in the future
>four people? with climbing gear? for a week?? geez

And in the days before radar (and the new expressway), we used to do foolish things like see how fast we could go down long hills in the crowded VW bug. I remember on more than one occasion catching glimpses out the obstructed window of a beauty just before Marulan while on the way to Bungonia ...
It only seemed really crowded after we filled our water jerry cans at the servo and limped the overloaded bug the last 35 km on the potholed dirt road. We all got out at the cattle grids so as not to stuff the suspension ... and to stretch the legs, because it seemed to take as long for the last dirt bit, as it did for the tar bit from Sydney.




anthonyk
11/12/2008
1:25:35 PM
On 11/12/2008 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>>or the back of a volkswagen
>
>Why when I were a lad we usta fit a party of four in there with all our
>gear for a week and-

four people? with climbing gear? for a week?? geez

D.Lodge
11/12/2008
1:46:30 PM
The problem with clipping through the harness is that the leg and waist loops are not designed to go together that way which is different to the BD alpine bod they are long enough to reach properly. So do you really think these designers and engineers who make this gear just build it and tell you to use it a certain way for chuckles i think not.

skink
11/12/2008
2:43:15 PM
Belay loop: 30kN
6mm cord backup: 10kN
Crossloaded biner: 9kN
Most climbers not understanding that exposure to forces this large while belaying or abseiling is almost impossible: priceless

Do what you like - belay loop or direct clip-in.

Either way, if you are concerned about the safety of this aspect of your climbing day, you are wasting energy and attention better directed towards the real dangers.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
11/12/2008
2:54:57 PM
On 11/12/2008 andesite wrote:
>Belay loop: 30kN
>6mm cord backup: 10kN
>Crossloaded biner: 9kN
>Most climbers not understanding that exposure to forces this large while
>belaying or abseiling is almost impossible: priceless
>
>Do what you like - belay loop or direct clip-in.
>
>Either way, if you are concerned about the safety of this aspect of your
>climbing day, you are wasting energy and attention better directed towards
>the real dangers.

Yes.
Partly why I earlier wrote
>What are you trying to find out / establish mikl? ... as I would think the majority of folk would use the belay loop as recommended by harness manufacturers.

anthonyk
11/12/2008
5:19:53 PM
On 11/12/2008 andesite wrote:
>Belay loop: 30kN
>6mm cord backup: 10kN
>Crossloaded biner: 9kN

failing to do up the gate on your biner because you were thinking about whether the belay loop or harness loop is stronger: priceless
tastybigmac
11/12/2008
5:58:39 PM
i actually find the atc operates better when clipped into the belay loop. each to their own.
mikl law
11/12/2008
6:10:23 PM
>What are you trying to find out / establish mikl? ... as I would think the majority of folk would use the belay loop as recommended by harness manufacturers.

I was wondering if there was any good reason for doing something slightly dangerous, that has led to me having a groundfall (Grigri clipped to screwgate through leg and waist loop)

D.Lodge
11/12/2008
6:33:16 PM
Wish i could find the picture of the screwgate that was used in the wrong part of the harness and the fig 8 levering the locked gate straight off the biner and this was just abseiling no fall forces involved.

skink
11/12/2008
7:13:56 PM
On 11/12/2008 D.Lodge wrote:
>Wish i could find the picture of the screwgate that was used in the wrong
>part of the harness and the fig 8 levering the locked gate straight off
>the biner and this was just abseiling no fall forces involved.

Can happen irrespective of how you clip in:



(from Petzl website)

Phil S
11/12/2008
7:42:37 PM
Hey Mikl.

Was the belayer in question one of those nasty left handed people?
When the rope exits my Gri-Gri to my RHS the lever is on the outside. It won't snag on anything but my fingers.

On 11/12/2008 D.Lodge wrote:
>The problem with clipping through the harness is that the leg and waist loops are not >designed to go together that way which is different to the BD alpine bod they are long >enough to reach properly.

Can you explain how a 'biner is going to load the harness any differently to a belay loop when they are in exactly the same position and are loaded in exactly the same way?

Eduardo Slabofvic
11/12/2008
8:49:06 PM
maybe the question should have been, "how many people have decked whilst being belayed by a Gri
Gri?"

I have, I've also taken a 10m fall on top rope whilst being belayed by a Gri Gri. Mind you, both times I
had tied into the waist and leg sections of the harness......ooh...now I'm confused.
rod
11/12/2008
11:27:08 PM
when belaying i use the biner in the belay loop but a piece of velcro is deployed to make sure the biner is kept in the right orientation vs the belay loop.

i tie into the waist and leg sections of the harness.

when using a gri gri i adopted the petzl site's video method 2 this year when paying out out rope to assist the leader's clipping process.
Wendy
12/12/2008
7:16:34 AM
What's the point of having a belay loop if you don't use it? Maybe you could cut it off and save 20g!

I think a tad of versatility in your belay skills is very useful - think of squishy belays where you can't get into your prefered position to belay in. If you're struggling to belay with the difference between orientation on your harness, I suggest some practice. Neither orientation is "safer", just different.

I see plenty of people climbing in old harnesses. Considering that your harness is the thing that keeps both you and your climbing partner connected to the rope, I think it's worth spending the $100 or so every 3-5 years to get a new one. Then you don't need to stress about any bit of it being strong enough or not.

evanbb
12/12/2008
8:19:50 AM
On 11/12/2008 rod wrote:
>when belaying i use the biner in the belay loop but a piece of velcro is
>deployed to make sure the biner is kept in the right orientation vs the
>belay loop.

That seems like a good idea to me. Someone, maybe Edelrid or Petzl? make a biner with a plastic gate across it that stops the biner getting out of orientation. That also seems like a good idea.

tnd
12/12/2008
9:29:35 AM
On 12/12/2008 evanbb wrote:
>...Someone, maybe Edelrid or Petzl? make
>a biner with a plastic gate across it that stops the biner getting out
>of orientation. That also seems like a good idea.

DMM Belay Master. Works well, I've used one for years.
http://www.dmmclimbing.com/productsDetails.asp?id=3&id2=91

harold
12/12/2008
9:48:44 AM
DMM belay master has the plastic clip. I think they are awesome. I don't understand why they weren't more popular. Completely eliminates the belay biner jiggling around and potentially cross loading.

 Page 2 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 82
There are 82 messages in this topic.

 

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