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Beginner whinging about ATCs :)


Nooj

7-Jan-2008
8:05:55 PM

I've only just gotten into climbing outside, and I look at the Black Diamond website for their ATCs. $20 in the US. Reasonable I say, then I look at the prices in Australia and they're over 35 bucks which is a jump. It wouldn't be a problem if I wasn't so stingy about money.

So I'm asking if anyone knows a store that sells for a cheaper price?


tmarsh

7-Jan-2008
8:28:00 PM

$US20 is $AU23 at the moment. Factor in shipping, and the fact that the Oz market is tiny in comparison and $35 isn't such a jump. Of all the money you will end up spending on gear, $35 for a good belay device isn't so outrageous.

On the other hand, if you're as stingy as you say you are, how about you learn to use a search engine and find some cheaper deals online. It's really not that hard


wallwombat

7-Jan-2008
8:51:54 PM

I've got an old sticht plate that you can have for 3 schooners.


Nooj

7-Jan-2008
8:58:25 PM

On 7/01/2008 tmarsh wrote:
>$US20 is $AU23 at the moment. Factor in shipping, and the fact that the
>Oz market is tiny in comparison and $35 isn't such a jump. Of all the money
>you will end up spending on gear, $35 for a good belay device isn't so
>outrageous.

I guess not, but I got my shoes for $40 and I think it's a little wierd that the belay device costs as much as my shoes, or a heckload of carabiners.

>On the other hand, if you're as stingy as you say you are, how about you
>learn to use a search engine and find some cheaper deals online. It's
>really not that hard

I wasn't a total arse, I did look. Everywhere is above $35. I'm checking ebay right now


wallwombat

7-Jan-2008
9:09:37 PM

This
is only $30 and I think it looks tops. I wouldn't mind one myself.


tmarsh

7-Jan-2008
9:11:19 PM

Whether you end up buying locally or overseas, you'll often get a better deal if you're buying a few things together. Many outdoor shops offer 'beginners packages'. You might be better off saving your money and buying a belay device, a few screwgates, some slings and a nut-tool. The likelihood of getting a better deal is a lot higher.

The ATC is a pretty simple device and a number of other manufacturers have copied it. Keep your eyes out for look-alikes that are a bit cheaper. It's possible that they are not as well finished as the BD unit. Ask to fondle a few of them and run your fingers around the inside where the rope runs. Hand back any that have rough seams from the forging process.

Oh, and you might want to check out Rock Hardware. Click the link on the left hand edge. Steve will give you good prices and mail the stuff to you.


Nooj

7-Jan-2008
9:35:53 PM

>Whether you end up buying locally or overseas, you'll often get a better deal if you're buying a few things together. Many outdoor shops offer 'beginners packages'. You might be better off saving your money and buying a belay device, a few screwgates, some slings and a nut-tool. The likelihood of getting a better deal is a lot higher.

I'll definitely do that. I go to a climbing gym that offers starter packs (I just don't need the harness or the shoes), I'll see if I can't haggle myself something.

In the meantime, ebay gave me this. I'm asking the seller if he/she dropped it and how old it is. It looks good though.

Anyway, thanks for the advice everyone.

simey

7-Jan-2008
9:49:25 PM

How about using a body belay? That won't cost you anything.


wallwombat

7-Jan-2008
9:52:21 PM

Alright, 2 schooners but I'm not going any lower.

I shudder to think what you are going to end up with when you decide to buy a rope.


Macciza

7-Jan-2008
10:04:28 PM

How about a middy and he can copy the design onto a beer coaster then make one at home . . .
Rope will be easy . . .


Nooj

7-Jan-2008
10:09:16 PM

> I shudder to think what you are going to end up with when you decide to buy a rope.

Pff, why buy ropes when you can raid the bin outside the local gym?


ShinToe Warrior

8-Jan-2008
2:01:03 AM

On 7/01/2008 Nooj wrote:
>> I shudder to think what you are going to end up with when you decide
>to buy a rope.
>Pff, why buy ropes when you can raid the bin outside the local gym?

If you raid the bin outside Aussie Disposals, you could get a Li-Lo inflatable matress. That would do you for bouldering. and routes, by the sound of things. Gaffer-tape a 2-litre plastic ice-cream container to your head for a helmet and you're good to go.

PDRM

8-Jan-2008
8:31:20 AM

Or just go jungle and use the no-gear option of a Munter Hitch - as long as it's not your rope! Will end up like an old telephone cord...

.Macca


Capt_mulch

8-Jan-2008
9:05:22 AM

Hah, you guys are wimps. Climb solo and naked. Cheap as, and you don't even have to buy clothes then. The chicks love it too! (If you are a guy, that is, or depending on the chicks).


climbau

8-Jan-2008
11:46:09 AM

On 7/01/2008 tmarsh wrote:

>fondle a few of them and run your fingers around the inside where the rope
>runs. Hand back any that have rough seams from the forging process.
Rough seems are just extra friction for more stopping power ;)

prb

8-Jan-2008
12:14:34 PM

On 8/01/2008 ShinToe Warrior wrote:

>If you raid the bin outside Aussie Disposals, you could get a Li-Lo inflatable matress.
>That would do you for bouldering, and routes by the sound of things.

Col Reece, for one, used this approach to put up the bold Triad (19) at Morialta in about 1976. How the Li-Lo was positioned in relation to the large pointy block straight below the crux, I'm not sure.

Paul

8-Jan-2008
3:21:25 PM

It seems strange to me that so many climbers are reluctant to spend money on equipment which will be the only thing preventing their falls from reaching ground level. Money spent on gear for safety is a good investment in my opinion. Having said that I know that gear is expensive and it can be hard to afford when you are a student. My philosophy is to buy the best quallity gear which I can afford.


wallwombat

8-Jan-2008
3:27:39 PM

I think the fact that Nooj got his shoes for $40 has skewed his thinking a wee bit. This is not a cheap pastime and anyone who thinks it is, is deluded.


Capt_mulch

8-Jan-2008
3:54:02 PM

> This is not a cheap pastime
True, but compared to other sports (i.e. go buy a nice surfboard, or windsurfer, plus your wetsuit. For surfing I have four boards - the full mal, the mini mal, the gun, and a small reef board - that equals lot of climbing gear.) it's not too bad - fairly similar. (Blech, I just calculated what all my cross country gear cost last winter - no wonder my credit card is maxed). If you just want to stick to sports climbing it's even cheaper. But who wants to be cheap? All that lovely new shiny gear out there that you can buy. And who wants to fall on crappy gear? Buy good gear and maybe stick to top roping for a while!


wallwombat

8-Jan-2008
4:51:53 PM

But Mulchy, someone could easily get by surfing with just one board and a wetsuit. You have to remember that you are a bit of a gear freak: eg- Metolious Climbers Tape, Cam Lube, etc, etc

There are 22 messages in this topic.