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Knots


skink

29-Nov-2007
1:11:53 PM

On 29/11/2007 AlanD wrote:
>Similar, I used to be part of NSW Cave Rescue. I agree, building in redunancy
>is critical, but sometimes s*** happens. Even if you reduncancy is lost
>during a complete failure of your top anchor set ups, if you have rebelays
>placed further down, then the strength of the rope becomes an issue again.

I think we need to draw a line here between static/semi-static and dynamic rope applications:

Rescue/Caving/Abseiling using semi-static or static rope and large (>>100kg) loads - ropes exposed to catastrophic-failure type shock loads e.g. factor 2 onto re-belay after top anchor failure - ropes breaking in the knot may be an issue.

Rock-climbing with dynamic ropes - ropes NEVER can be broken, only cut.

Ronny

29-Nov-2007
1:56:59 PM

On 29/11/2007 mikl law wrote:

>I still don't believe a Volvo 244 broke down, did you fail to pick up
>a Swedish hitchhiker or some other karmic misdemenour?

Of course not, I just kicked her Swedish boyfriend out near Goroke somewhere...

Back to the original question though... It would seem to me to be a complete waste of time tying a double figure 8 on the bight if you're just attaching it to one point to abseil. Maybe if it was unavoidable that the loop of the knot was going to rub on something sharp then you might like the extra security of two loops - but otherwise not worth it.
J

There are 22 messages in this topic.