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4-Mar-2015 9:00:43 AM
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Interesting setup. Let me focus on coaxial loading though. The main binner is loaded coaxially with the two knots as they are both being loaded. If there had been a knot (clove hitch) at the lower protection binner then there would be no coaxial loading in this setup.
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4-Mar-2015 10:08:19 AM
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On 3/03/2015 Dave_S wrote:
>That's far from the only way of setting up an adjustable length tether
>though. Here's a method that only needs one strand:
>(snip)
~> ... insert picture of daisy chain here...
(Heh, heh, heh)
>Problem solved.
☺
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4-Mar-2015 10:13:00 AM
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On 4/03/2015 tooclimb wrote:
>
>
>Interesting setup. Let me focus on coaxial loading though. The main binner
>is loaded coaxially with the two knots as they are both being loaded. If
>there had been a knot (clove hitch) at the lower protection binner then
>there would be no coaxial loading in this setup.
There is no load in the picture.
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4-Mar-2015 10:32:26 AM
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When the cloud he is standing on evaporates he will look down quickly then look back towards the camera with a startled Coyote like expression, shortly after that he will presumably drop a little and swing into the cliff putting all the load on his top piece. Assuming the top piece holds then he'll be happy to see that the load is now nicely aligned along the big HMS. This will give him the confidence to equalize the load on the second piece and add three more pieces for luck before finally yelling "Safe".
Then he can lower a bight of rope to haul up the belay device he forgot (hence his slightly bemused expression in this opening shot), and eventually he'll be able to get his second on belay. At this point we can all critique his choice of belay device and belaying technique... and debate whether he should be wearing a helmet.
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4-Mar-2015 10:45:46 AM
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The bigget problem with it is that the lives of both people are relying on that single krab with the clove hitches. If it fails he belay fails. Very unlikely I know but that's a cardinal error.
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4-Mar-2015 1:50:22 PM
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On 4/03/2015 kieranl wrote:
>The bigget problem with it is that the lives of both people are relying
>on that single krab with the clove hitches. If it fails he belay fails.
>Very unlikely I know but that's a cardinal error.
I think it depends on how it fails and what bits get caught where, but if the gear holds then its somewhere between a few feet of extension and one hell of a whipper (let's assume its a 50m pitch, after all there are clouds). The real biggest problem here is that he appears to be in the process of undoing his harness with his left hand, which kind of makes any discussion about the carabiner/belay a tad academic..
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5-Mar-2015 3:51:45 PM
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Even if the belay is a bit shit, I'm quite impressed that an amputee managed to lead a trad pitch. Maybe don't be so harsh on the bloke.
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5-Mar-2015 6:57:43 PM
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hahaha
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5-Mar-2015 9:38:25 PM
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I'm not going to hang shit on anyone who builds an Ablakov in a concrete wall. If he did that in under ten minutes, Mad Props, as they say.
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6-Mar-2015 8:25:50 AM
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Just keep in mind that mbs rating are statistically derived from tests between two 12mm pins.
Any time you load anything with a different profile, the test results will be different.
Yes, derate for wide loads. How much depends on the angle.
Also, at least petzl and DMM now include pictures in their instructions of angled loadings.
Did I miss something in this thread where the discussion moved from tri axial to co axial? They are quite different situations.
Richard
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6-Mar-2015 9:14:19 AM
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On 6/03/2015 Richard Delaney wrote:
>
>Did I miss something in this thread where the >discussion moved from tri
>axial to co axial? They are quite different situations.
>Richard
Wondered that myself. I reckon the OP has got his knickers in a knot about tri loading where he was worried about an angle that he could only find data on the anchor and not the carabiner attached to the anchor. Still can't really figure out exactly what he was asking.
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6-Mar-2015 11:18:00 AM
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On 5/03/2015 One Day Hero wrote:
>Even if the belay is a bit shit, I'm quite impressed that an amputee managed
>to lead a trad pitch. Maybe don't be so harsh on the bloke.
Speaking of which, did anyone else see this -
http://www.cnet.com/news/star-wars-robotic-arm-lets-amputee-veteran-go-rock-climbing/
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