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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
Author
So, what happened here?

ajfclark
8/04/2014
8:05:06 AM

shortman
8/04/2014
8:05:57 AM
It broke??
martym
8/04/2014
8:18:14 AM
Mikl went nuts in the lab?
earwig
8/04/2014
8:20:51 AM
twisted

Climboholic
8/04/2014
8:30:51 AM
Placed with uneven lobes.
martym
8/04/2014
9:04:04 AM
Judging by the lack of cracks, I'd say the piece held!
mikllaw
8/04/2014
9:13:24 AM
the block it was in moved?
prb
8/04/2014
10:44:24 AM
After seconding me on a large number of climbs over the last couple of years, it was time for my partner's first lead.
I thought we'd covered the basics and she set off up the crack. I could get a view of the first three pieces, a hex and two SLCDs, and they looked fine.
I couldn't see the top pieces, another hex and a #3 SLCD, from the ground.

When I got to the top SLCD, I was surprised to find she'd placed it 'sideways' with the cams vertical not horizontal in a vertical crack. It was jammed in pretty snug and one of the outer cams was bent.
Falling on such a placement could twist the SLCD and bend the cams in weird ways.
My friend explained she had 'summit fever' and wasn't thinking straight.

Never underestimate the number of ways inexperienced climbers can get confused.

Duang Daunk
8/04/2014
11:13:19 AM
On 8/04/2014 prb wrote:
>After seconding me on a large number of climbs over the last couple of
>years, it was time for my partner's first lead.
>I thought we'd covered the basics and she set off up the crack. I could
>get a view of the first three pieces, a hex and two SLCDs, and they looked
>fine.
>I couldn't see the top pieces, another hex and a #3 SLCD, from the ground.
>
>
>When I got to the top SLCD, I was surprised to find she'd placed it 'sideways'
>with the cams vertical not horizontal in a vertical crack. It was jammed
>in pretty snug and one of the outer cams was bent.
>Falling on such a placement could twist the SLCD and bend the cams in
>weird ways.
>My friend explained she had 'summit fever' and wasn't thinking straight.
>
>
>Never underestimate the number of ways inexperienced climbers can get
>confused.

In other words it was placed as a passive piece of pro?
Good thing BD cams like the one in the pic are rated as being capable of that, not that it came out of it too well, looking at it.

shortman
8/04/2014
11:16:02 AM
So...was it the bench top that did the damage? :)

Eduardo Slabofvic
8/04/2014
11:22:52 AM
It's an acid flashback
prb
8/04/2014
11:50:52 AM
Yep, in my story above the cam was placed as passive pro by mistake. I guess with a crack that is wider than it is deep a 'sideways' placed cam could be an option if you had nothing else (I've never done it). But it would have to be with one of the smaller cams that are 'longer' than they are 'wide' unless you weighted the trigger!

E. Wells
8/04/2014
5:13:04 PM
someone drove over it or a big ass boulder fell on it? My guess is reverse gear.

Superstu
8/04/2014
10:11:40 PM
Clearly the background in the photo is granite. I suspect damage due to radiation.
Drake
8/04/2014
10:21:11 PM
Placed in a pod (rather than a parallel crack), force of a fall caused the lobes to move inwards towards the center of the pod, bending the lobes?

Like Mikl described here: http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=4&MessageID=2970&Replies=12

IdratherbeclimbingM9
8/04/2014
10:39:14 PM
I reckon either driven over; or possibly dropped from a great height to ricochet/bounce & continue falling till landed on another hard surface.

MisterGribble
8/04/2014
10:53:23 PM
HB snacked on it ?
climberman
8/04/2014
10:56:12 PM
Zamanov leapt up and swungójust as Schofield lunged forward, ducking inside Zamanov's swing arc, at the same time whipping something metallic from his borrowed utility vest and jamming it into the Russian's mouth!

Zamanov didn't have time for shock, because Schofield didn't hesitate.

He activated the mountaineering pitonóand turned his head away, not wanting to see this.

With a powerful the piton's pincer-like arms expanded, shooting instantaneously outward, searching for something to wedge themselves against.
What they found were Zamanov's upper and lower jaws.

Schofield never saw the actual event, but he heard it.

Heard the foul crack of Zamanov's lower jaw being stretched far further than it ever was designed to go.

Schofield turned back to see the Russian's jaw hanging grotesquely from his face, dislocated and broken. The upper arm of the piton, however, had done more damage: it had bruised Zamanov's brain, leaving Zamanov frozen bolt upright in mid-stance, the shock having shut down his entire body.

The Russian fell to his knees.


--------------------------
So, obviously, the picture is what happens to a cam when a writer gets hold of it, turn it into a mountaineering piton, and then explodes it in a bad guy's mouth. After that, it probably fell to the ground from a helicopter in a controlled explosion or something.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
9/04/2014
12:02:13 AM
On 8/04/2014 climberman quoted: (snip)
You read that rubbish too?
... but forgot to add the final line, being;

(snip)
And he just let the Russian waver where he knelt, and then he watched as a moment later Zamanov fell flat on his face with a final bloody splat.

... and back in 2006 gfdonc thought I was making it up!
~> Only took 8 years to be vindicated!!
Heh, heh, heh.


Stugang
9/04/2014
7:42:47 AM
Eduardo fell on it.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 24
There are 24 messages in this topic.

 

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