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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
Author
Which auto block device, Reverso 4 or ATC Guide?

Eduardo Slabofvic
4/07/2013
5:09:45 PM
On 4/07/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>
>-also carry an ipod to block out the whining and "take take take!",

Either that, or stop climbing with Stugang
pecheur
4/07/2013
8:54:41 PM
On 4/07/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Yep, you'd have to gamble a whole 10 frigging bucks and 20 grams on whether
>you'll ever go multipitching...................probably better not to take
>the risk when the stakes are so high!?????

You're contradicting yourself ODH, as we both agree you only really want to use autoblock if you're on doubles and leading some bastard who'll dog on the rope. If you're never in that situation (she doesn't lead with doubles) it's a waste of money / weight.

shortman
4/07/2013
9:29:35 PM
No way you own an IPod Damo?

I own too many of everything and have never used the thing with guide mode in guide mode. 99% time I would belay off the anchor and I find the little extra bit gets in the way and doesn't sit nice on the rock if someone is havin a bit of a rest. So now I don't use the thing with guide mode.

For sale: Guide thingy. Scratched and hacked and worn a bit. $5 with free postage.

stugang
4/07/2013
10:05:40 PM
I'll take it shorty for five bucks. No postage reqd just drop it over and I'll shout you an herbal tea.

shortman
4/07/2013
10:14:03 PM
Coz u are so likeable Stu, you can have it for free. I'm at the studio heaps these days. Call me.
Leah
5/07/2013
12:16:33 AM
Thanks a lot for your feedback and useful tips on how to make the ATC more efficient in guide mode (e.g. correct biners, etc), which of of course I plan to use ! Why the hell would you buy an autoblock device if you're not going to use it in guide mode??!!

I am as lightweight as they get, so as someone else stated it can be a useful when holding your climbing partner for long periods of time. Plus awesome for the occasional pic/snack opportunity as someone else mentioned... but the later is not my driving force, just an added bonus.


Macciza
5/07/2013
1:35:02 AM
Don't forget Aldi either . . .
I got a couple of ATC type devices for $5 each
And they work quite fine . . .

shortman
5/07/2013
8:01:28 AM
On 2/07/2013 Leah wrote:
>Thanks everyone.
>
>I don't care how they look just how they function, and hey I don't need
>some sexy looking device to make me look sexy! Hehe
>
Too true Leah, ;P
One Day Hero
5/07/2013
10:01:05 AM
On 4/07/2013 pecheur wrote:
>You're contradicting yourself ODH, as we both agree you only really want
>to use autoblock if you're on doubles and leading some bastard who'll dog
>on the rope. If you're never in that situation (she doesn't lead with
>doubles) it's a waste of money / weight.

There's two types of climbers when it comes to multipitch routes, those who have their shit together and those who are slow motion shankers. If it isn't immediately apparent that the potential benefits of an autoblock outweigh the $10 and 20g initial investment, it might be a good indicator of which group one falls into :)
Wendy
5/07/2013
11:25:28 AM
It continually pains me to agree with Damo, but i might have to on all points - I almost always belay a second from the top in some form of self locking mode, almost always from the anchor, and, yup, it's the cinch for singles and guide for doubles. The reverso is also perfectly acceptable, except that I lost mine somewhere and found a guide, so it's what i use. It doesn't matter whether they are going to have an epic or not. If they are, it's way more compfy, if they aren't, it's still quick and easy, i find taking in quicker in fact then a normal device on your harness. And all the other points about being able to free your hands to do stuff, including setting up a haul or escaping the belay. And i don't know why you would buy a non-reverso style device. Having said that, I've found 2 in the past few years, Douglas has also found one, and I continually leave them in his climbing gear as a not very subtle hint, but he loves his normal atc. Maybe some day in the future your friend will decide to use doubles or climb trad? They really don't weigh or cost anything much more. And if I was only sport climbing on single ropes, i'd just have the cinch. For the odd thing when i couldn't be lower or clean with the belayer as an anchor and rapping on the other end of the rope, I'd use a munter.
crackalackin!
5/07/2013
2:23:20 PM
On 5/07/2013 Macciza wrote:
>Don't forget Aldi either . . .
>I got a couple of ATC type devices for $5 each
>And they work quite fine . . .

I've used one a few times on loan from a club, they work fine, although they are very fast on abseil compared to a more mainstream brand device.
crackalackin!
5/07/2013
2:25:16 PM
On 5/07/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 4/07/2013 pecheur wrote:
>>You're contradicting yourself ODH, as we both agree you only really want
>>to use autoblock if you're on doubles and leading some bastard who'll
>dog
>>on the rope. If you're never in that situation (she doesn't lead with
>>doubles) it's a waste of money / weight.
>
>There's two types of climbers when it comes to multipitch routes, those
>who have their shit together and those who are slow motion shankers. If
>it isn't immediately apparent that the potential benefits of an autoblock
>outweigh the $10 and 20g initial investment, it might be a good indicator
>of which group one falls into :)

I feel like this debate is analogous to saying "I prefer a slide rule to those over-expensive calculators."

Eduardo Slabofvic
5/07/2013
2:56:51 PM
On 5/07/2013 crackalackin! wrote:
>
>I feel like this debate is analogous to saying "I prefer a slide rule
>to those over-expensive calculators."
>

Some of us still prefer to use our fingers and toes.

sliamese
6/07/2013
10:37:07 AM

>I feel like this debate is analogous to saying "I prefer a slide rule
>to those over-expensive calculators."

Hmm my to bobs is to agree with the above sentiment, a munter works fine for belaying, hell a waist belay does too if you envision your second isnt gonna fall! But if you want to improve the level of safety, efficiency and comfort for your second, use an autoblock. Use which ever one you can get a deal, they're all about the same now IMO. Get your fattest HMS screwgate for running the rope through and never belay off your waist again! Better that way as its safer, faster(can do things whilst belaying safely), less force on the anchor in most situations, easier/faster to pull rope through, no need to escape the belay ever, two seconds safely climbing simultaneously is possible.

Theres a billion ways to skin the climbing cat, pick what way suits you. If your serious about learning to climb long routes fast, get an autoblock...

IdratherbeclimbingM9
6/07/2013
11:21:37 AM
On 6/07/2013 sliamese wrote:
>Hmm my to bobs is to agree with the above sentiment, a munter works fine
>for belaying, hell a waist belay does too if you envision your second isnt
>gonna fall! But if you want to improve the level of safety, efficiency
>and comfort for your second, use an autoblock. Use which ever one you can
>get a deal, they're all about the same now IMO. Get your fattest HMS screwgate
>for running the rope through and never belay off your waist again! Better
>that way as its safer, faster(can do things whilst belaying safely), less
>force on the anchor in most situations, easier/faster to pull rope through,
>no need to escape the belay ever, two seconds safely climbing simultaneously
>is possible.
>
>Theres a billion ways to skin the climbing cat, pick what way suits you.
>If your serious about learning to climb long routes fast, get an autoblock...

How does an autoblock improve comfort for the second?

Re "less force on the anchor". My old fashioned learning is that a waist belay often provides a 'cushioning effect' for the forces involved on the belay anchor/s, and consequently transfers less force to them; ... however from a debate perspective this opens Pandora’s box of what-if scenarios for an internet contesting!

Another thing while reading your post that my old fashioned thinking causes a slight tingle of my alarm bells is; ... that it may be fine for a competent belayer to do other things while still belaying safely, but to some extent the doing of other things is taking full concentration off the belaying in hand...
Depending on circumstances at hand, I would feel uncomfortable in my climbing if I thought that my belayer was not giving that task due diligence!

PS I like my autoblock device, however don't often use it in that mode due preferring waist belay attachment on easier ground, which is probably more a reflection of the grades I climb and the partners I climb with than the device capability!

bw
6/07/2013
7:38:40 PM
Yeah the last multi i climbed (too long ago), at various stages, used an autoblock, tube off harness and a waist belay. Its good kit to have, doesnt mean itll be used all the time. And, its a cheap extra as the device lasts forever(ish) & weighs fork all. I have both, they are both good. Whatevers cheap or matches your eyes :)
martym
9/07/2013
1:39:35 PM
Isn't the real question what colour do you want? Will it match your rope? What would Simon Carter say??





Hendo
9/07/2013
2:05:45 PM
Just to throw in another option. I like the look of the Simond Toucan 2. I haven't actually tried it, but it looks like it may have a better method of releasing the rope while weighted by levering with a spare biner. However, having said that I have never had a problem with BD ATC Guide which I own. I tend to find pulling on the biner with the rope going around it to get a bit of leverage works well enough to pay out slack on the odd occasion it is needed.

Simond also have nice snag free biners (called 'spider') which I note have been updated to be lighter. Unfortunately they don't seem to be readily available. Anyone know where to get them?
Fish Boy
10/07/2013
4:28:00 PM
I use a grigri or grigri 2 for all my my single rope climbing. I climb 99% trad and now that I don't use double ropes, my atc and reverso don't get used....
One Day Hero
11/07/2013
11:59:52 AM
On 10/07/2013 Fish Boy wrote:
>I use a grigri or grigri 2 for all my my single rope climbing. I climb
>99% trad and now that I don't use double ropes, my atc and reverso don't
>get used.

But how do you get down? Oh, that's right, every route at Squampton has a pair of rings at the top so you just lower off like a faggy sport climber.

Hey, how's the summer over there so far?

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 67
There are 67 messages in this topic.

 

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