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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
Author
New rope, how skinny?
Wendy
4/09/2012
11:33:31 AM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I've always thought it would be hilarious to roll up to araps, find some
>"I know everything about rock climbing" nati locals, set up next to them,
>then start belaying a pair of twin ropes through a gri gri!
>
>Question is, would it actually lock off? I reckon it might be ok :D

I'd be quite impressed to see you fit them through the grigri and managing to belay with them.
kieranl
4/09/2012
11:38:10 AM
You'd probably get the ropes threaded in the grigri. I suspect the problem would be getting them to feed through - in which case catching someone wouldn't be a problem becasue they wouldn't get off the ground.
One Day Hero
4/09/2012
11:45:00 AM
Really? Surely a pair of skinny twins would easily go through my worn out gri gri.......I have to confess that I'm thinking of Louise with this stunt :)

sliamese
4/09/2012
11:52:11 AM
Ive got a new tendon 9.7 that im loving. Steve at climbinganchors.com has them, good prices and they give back to the community!
kieranl
4/09/2012
12:04:15 PM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Really? Surely a pair of skinny twins would easily go through my worn out
>gri gri.......I have to confess that I'm thinking of Louise with this stunt
>:)
Definitive answer : Yes the twins will easily go into the grigri
Almost definitive answer : You aren't going anywhere though.

Just tried with my double rope and grigri (car's just outside work and I've got to hang around late today so... ). Only caveats are that my double is a 7.8 and my grigri doesn't get heaps of use as I usually climb on doubles. While it's pretty easy to load the ropes into the grigri it just doesn't want to move through.

Eduardo Slabofvic
4/09/2012
12:24:16 PM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>I've always thought it would be hilarious to roll up to araps, find some
>"I know everything about rock climbing" nati locals, set up next to them,

I'd see your bucket hat coming through the trees and I'd run off to one of the crags not listed in the guide book where you'd never find me
dawyndham
4/09/2012
12:38:29 PM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Also, why would Australian climbers want or need dry treatment? Do you
>often climb in the rain? I'm almost certain that it's the source of 'belayer's
>black hands'

Agreed. My rope is only dry treated because it was bought in Canada where I occasionally climbed ice. Now that I'm back here I'm going to save the cash and get a standard rope next time.
maxdacat
4/09/2012
1:18:07 PM
I've owned and liked the Mammutt 9.4 and 9.2mm ropes. Personally found the 8.9mm serenity a little on the thin side.
mikllaw
4/09/2012
1:21:32 PM
On 4/09/2012 daim15 wrote:
>Ive recently acquired the Mammut Twilight 7.5mm Twin ropes ... but am too
>scared to use them on anything vertical. Does anyone use twin ropes, clipping
>both into each piece of protection, these days?

On multuipitch sport I use a pair of old 8mm twins that someone gave me. Bomber! If you were really worried about ropes cutting, go to 9mm doubles, clipped through alternate runners.

Miguel75
4/09/2012
2:06:52 PM
My latest addition to the quiver was a 9.5 Sterling Ion. It has a great hand and so far is treating me with lots of love though it feels a little thin, especially when I'm having high gravity days. I also have a Bluewater, (thumbs up), Edelwiess 9mm doubles (two enthusiastic thumbs up) and an Edelwiess 10.3 single (thumbs up). The single has a bit of sheath slippage though in all honesty I've raped this thing pretty hard practicing hauling and jugging and lots of TR...

I also really like my mates 10mm Tendon rope. It has a nice balance of burliness and a good hand...
One Day Hero
4/09/2012
2:58:01 PM
On 4/09/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:

>I'd see your bucket hat coming through the trees and I'd run off to one
>of the crags not listed in the guide book where you'd never find me

That's the way Ed, just keep climbing those "classics" of yours on obscure little crappy outcrops. I can guarantee that you won't bump into me on any of your routes.

nmonteith
4/09/2012
4:45:06 PM
On 4/09/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>a bit of sheath slippage
>though in all honesty I've raped this thing pretty hard practicing hauling
>and jugging...

Interesting.

Miguel75
4/09/2012
4:55:33 PM
On 4/09/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 4/09/2012 Miguel75 wrote:
>>a bit of sheath slippage
>>though in all honesty I've raped this thing pretty hard practicing hauling
>>and jugging...
>
>Interesting.

Ahh yeah, poor choice of words eh. Buggered's probably no better either.. Let's sub in thrashed!
miketg
4/09/2012
4:57:19 PM
I've mainly use an Edelrid Hawk 10mm this year and loving it.. easy on the hands and isnt getting destroyed even under a beating!

>Leading trad in the teens and still enjoy top-roping the tougher stuff..

But in my experience Mammut ropes last forever... Ppl complain they get stiff like cables, but i find they're fine if you take care of them and wash them every now and then.. The dry treated ones are generally stiffer thou, regardless of brand. If you're looking for a rope that'll last another 8 years.. go mammut.

Used a mates Beal Edlinger 10.2 and he hasnt had any complaints about it.. and he bitches and moans about alot of things.



Big G
4/09/2012
6:49:24 PM
Just bought a mammut, only one outing so hard to review. Picked it up dirt cheap from mountain equipment. Glad to here others rate them. Have an edelrid that's going strong after 5 years of a very large man (me) taking many, many falls. Very happy with it, although I've just chopped 2 m off one end

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/09/2012
8:27:41 PM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Also, why would Australian climbers want or need dry treatment? Do you
>often climb in the rain? I'm almost certain that it's the source of 'belayer's
>black hands'

On 4/09/2012 shortman wrote:
>Yep, agreed.

I suggest that you are both wrong!
~> Aluminium (oxide?) from karabiner wear that the rope causes as it passes through them, is the culprit.

Do a big wall on a non dry treated rope and you will never doubt again, as you will end up black as!
;-)

On the topic. I find Edelrid good value ropes, and as others have indicated, thin ropes have specialised purpose, but for a single rope as a workhorse I'd reckon anything in the 9.8 mm - 10.2 mm range will meet your needs, and I would go thicker if you are likely to give the rope a hard time on a consistent basis.

shortman
4/09/2012
8:49:14 PM
On 4/09/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>>Also, why would Australian climbers want or need dry treatment? Do you
>>often climb in the rain? I'm almost certain that it's the source of 'belayer's
>>black hands'
>
>On 4/09/2012 shortman wrote:
>>Yep, agreed.
>
>I suggest that you are both wrong!
>~> Aluminium (oxide?) from karabiner wear that the rope causes as it passes
>through them, is the culprit.
>
>Do a big wall on a non dry treated rope and you will never doubt again,
>as you will end up black as!
>;-)
>
>On the topic. I find Edelrid good value ropes, and as others have indicated,
>thin ropes have specialised purpose, but for a single rope as a workhorse
>I'd reckon anything in the 9.8 mm - 10.2 mm range will meet your needs,
>and I would go thicker if you are likely to give the rope a hard time on
>a consistant basis.

Your right M9. But I reckon the dry treatment increases the wearing equalling more black crap.

shortman
4/09/2012
9:06:45 PM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 4/09/2012 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>
>>I'd see your bucket hat coming through the trees and I'd run off to one
>>of the crags not listed in the guide book where you'd never find me
>
>That's the way Ed, just keep climbing those "classics" of yours on obscure
>little crappy outcrops. I can guarantee that you won't bump into me on
>any of your routes.

Do u ever read some things u write and think geez I sound like a wanker?

Personally, (as if I could be speaking for anyone else), I do it all the time, so don't see it as an attack, but rather a gentle discussion about the fascinating topic of how skinny a rope should be and sounding like a wanker.

Edit: :-)

shortman
4/09/2012
9:18:04 PM
On 4/09/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Also, why would Australian climbers want or need dry treatment? Do you
>often climb in the rain?

Honestly. People in Australia have dry treated beal ropes because rockware has been dithcin em cheap for the last 2 years. Not a bad thing, nice stretchy catching ropes, just stiffin up a bit.

One Day Hero
4/09/2012
10:28:57 PM
On 4/09/2012 shortman wrote:
>Do u ever read some things u write and think geez I sound like a wanker?
>
Nope, never, why do you ask? I do, however, often have a similar reaction when reading things which other people write :)

 Page 2 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 58
There are 58 messages in this topic.

 

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