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A Couple of Big Wall Questions


nmonteith

21-Jun-2012
12:39:34 PM

For example I have never carried any sort of stove on a wall. I hate the idea of a fire and petro-chemical mix whilst i'm attached to the wall with nylon string! I just eat cold food. Burrito wraps are my fav, as they are pretty indestructible in the haulbag and aren't bulky.

Fish Boy

21-Jun-2012
12:43:57 PM

You didn't have a stove at Baffin?

When I haul I leave as much gear on me and pull out from the wall, feet right in front.


Superstu

21-Jun-2012
12:57:21 PM

On 21/06/2012 gfdonc wrote:
>On 20/06/2012 Fish Boy wrote:
>>Protrax and 1:1
>
>Yes and +1 for that suggestion as well, provided you're strong enough
>(and/or heavy enough) and the bag isn't too heavy to haul 1:1.
>
>I had to haul 3:1 to Sickle on the Nose, after that it got easier and
>I could haul 1:1 with some grunt (but it's so much faster the nett effort
>it a lot less).
>Bear in mind hauling to Sickle used 3 ropes tied together - an extra 10kg?
>

The stretch in the ropes would have made that an epic!

I remember hauling to sickle with a 5 day pig being a pain but we did single rope hauls i think. Vague recollections of trying 1:3 but quickly went back to 1:1 and just did the usual cheats (pull up tensioned line with armsies, both climbers weight being used, etc)

Go light and fast is almost a religion in the US west coast climbing scene, whether its yosemite grade V's, high sierras, wind rivers, bugs. Remember oogling all the ultra light weight gear available in the climbing shops, not so much from it not being easily available in oz, more that we dont have many things big enough to justify their use!


nmonteith

21-Jun-2012
1:05:18 PM

On 21/06/2012 Fish Boy wrote:
>You didn't have a stove at Baffin?

We had several stoves on the ground but never brought it up the wall. There is no point in having to use a stove to hydrate a meal when you are carrying up all the water anyway. Just bring juicy pre-cooked food in tins!


Organ Pipe

21-Jun-2012
3:13:57 PM

On 21/06/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 21/06/2012 Fish Boy wrote:
>>You didn't have a stove at Baffin?
>
>There is no point in having to use a stove to hydrate a meal when you are
>carrying up all the water anyway. Just bring juicy pre-cooked food in tins!

You eat em cold Neil?

That's like saying there's no point making love to a beautiful woman when your hand will do!

;)


Organ Pipe

21-Jun-2012
3:23:30 PM

My 2 cents on the topic:

My Zion (145 L) haulbag is always full, and we attach the ledges underneith (not in the bag).

A 70L bag wouldn't fit very well with our style of wall climbing (Luxury).

If you're interested in observing the different haul configurations that teams use (2 bags side by side, 2 bags in line, flagging ledges vs packing them, poo tube dangling etc) take a peek at the rad picks that Tom Evans posts here each day while the Yosemite season is in full swing:

http://www.elcapreport.com/

Click on the months on the left hand side, then select the day.


nmonteith

21-Jun-2012
3:25:04 PM

On 21/06/2012 Organ Pipe wrote:
>You eat em cold Neil?

Yep. I'm usually so buggered from the days climbing anything tastes good.


sliamese

21-Jun-2012
6:03:19 PM

Bring a stove!!! Soo worth it! While yes neils right that you'll be so hungry anything will be nice. But a can of chilli will be the best meal of your life once heated! Jetboil have a hanging stove kit(fits reactors too), but sit just as well in your lap. Screw on burners are easy, get an old tangia pot, drill a hole in the middle so it sits between the cannister and burner. Bit of wire and voila, your portaledge gets a michelin star.

Cans/boil in the bag meals are best, as you would need to carry water for freezedried anyway. Im a firm believer in taking some more food. Those few kilos extra munchies make it so much more enjoyable, especially after a storm-fly hot-box...


Organ Pipe

22-Jun-2012
12:15:48 PM

This was one of several Jetboil cooked meals we had chilling out for an extended weekend on Passport to Insanity last month.

Smoked chorizo, sun dried tomato, etc etc.


muki

22-Jun-2012
3:16:38 PM

were you the second team with two ledges on passport recently.
or was that another group ? is it becoming a fad to have multiple ledges on passport ?


Ben_E

23-Jun-2012
8:31:35 AM

That's some quality looking wall food there, Organ Pipe! Way to up the bar...

I'm usually too tired to faff around with cooking at the end of the day and go with Neil's approach (cold dog food out of a tin).

That said, I may have been heard to sob just a little once while sharing a rock ledge with a couple of Brits who were drinking hot tea as I ate my cold ravioli out of a tin in the cold...

Singersmith

23-Jun-2012
5:08:56 PM

A stove makes wall climbing a civilized pursuit. We got busted about to bivy at the base of the Trip and the rangers said, "We don't believe you're about to take a two burner propane stove and a lantern up El Cap." We smirked, "how do you think we're going to cook all this bacon and three dozen eggs?" and started jugging- in our Pooh and Tigger costumes.

ademmert

23-Jun-2012
6:21:32 PM

A friend got us american army rations when we were in the states, no stove but hot food!! they are the business!!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

23-Jun-2012
8:34:22 PM

On 23/06/2012 Singersmith wrote:
>A stove makes wall climbing a civilized pursuit. We got busted about to
>bivy at the base of the Trip and the rangers said, "We don't believe you're
>about to take a two burner propane stove and a lantern up El Cap." We smirked,
>"how do you think we're going to cook all this bacon and three dozen eggs?"
>and started jugging- in our Pooh and Tigger costumes.

Love it!
Re the Pooh and Tigger costumes; was that a special occasion, or just a random act of frivolity?
Any pics?

singersmith

23-Jun-2012
10:14:49 PM


IdratherbeclimbingM9

23-Jun-2012
10:22:55 PM

Excellent singer!

~> Hey Olly, are you becoming inspired yet? ~> I am!!

I have sent a link to this page off to my daughter who is a fan of those AA Milne characters!

Thanks for posting them up.


ChuckNorris

23-Jun-2012
10:41:40 PM

singersmith - you are an inspiration.

Although I did note that in the photos you weren't properly tied down...which isn't really sending a good message to the kiddies.

There are 57 messages in this topic.