Author |
|
12-May-2011 2:02:35 PM
|
On 12/05/2011 cruze wrote:
>Ha! I don't think that the roof is that hard, but it doesn't really matter
>anyway. I have never seen another person on it, tucked away in the corner
>as it is.
What do you mean? This is easily the best route in the place.
|
12-May-2011 2:55:08 PM
|
On 12/05/2011 gtempest wrote:
>On 12/05/2011 cruze wrote:
>>Ha! I don't think that the roof is that hard, but it doesn't really matter
>>anyway. I have never seen another person on it, tucked away in the corner
>>as it is.
>
>What do you mean? This is easily the best route in the place.
I agree, back in the days when I climbed at Altona I used to love climbing that crack. I think that pulling the lip on the roof is the single hardest move on the route though. The finger crack at the top is just about willingness to suffer.
|
12-May-2011 3:21:14 PM
|
Fair enough. It seems I have never been at the gym watching glen or cam try it.
|
12-May-2011 5:55:18 PM
|
I was actually referring to the vertical wooden crack, I thought it climbed ok. Being smooth & wood is perfect for training. a bit slippery so you have to hang on tight & doesn't trash your hands. It wasn't very hard but if tipped to be overhanging it would have been pumpy goodness.
any textured cracks in gyms the word over always seems to have a desperate section & are never inviting to climb more than a couple times. The texture doesn't seem to last very well & they never get cleaned.
when your climbing lots saving skin seems to be an on-going battle. smooth is only way for training walls.
|
13-May-2011 12:05:59 AM
|
On 12/05/2011 james wrote:
>I was actually referring to the vertical wooden crack, I thought it climbed ok.
I realised you were referring to the vertical wooden crack, but I always thought it was a very uninspiring thing to climb (compared to the masterpiece in the corner).
|
13-May-2011 12:46:10 PM
|
On 13/05/2011 simey wrote:
>On 12/05/2011 james wrote:
>>I was actually referring to the vertical wooden crack, I thought it climbed
>ok.
>
>I realised you were referring to the vertical wooden crack, but I always
>thought it was a very uninspiring thing to climb (compared to the masterpiece
>in the corner).
Both are fun; I do one or both probably every second time I'm there to keep in some sort of crack shape.
The crux of the one in the corner (for me pulling out the roof and onto the low angle wall) would be so much easier if you could just get a decent bit of friction on the slab wall to the left of it. At least Phil moved the %$ fairy lights out of the way, I was in constant fear of being shocked there for a while!
Back on topic though, this crack machine sounds intriguing; any chance of some pics when it's under construction?
|
13-May-2011 5:29:51 PM
|
>I realised you were referring to the vertical wooden crack, but I always
>thought it was a very uninspiring thing to climb (compared to the masterpiece
>in the corner).
altona... gym... inspiring? please ex-plo-ain...
|
11-Feb-2016 10:06:32 AM
|
Hey youse ya'll,
I vacated this continent because, well, because Utah. I am back in town for a few months and did complete a decent crack machine in my backyard. It's mostly red Camalot size with sections of green and gold; I suppose it averages about 1 1/2" at 10-15 degrees overhanging, +/- 9 meters, maybe 5.10+/5.11-. It's pretty good, actually. We are right next to the train bridge at the south end of the Darebin Parklands. All are welcome and I'd like to see some people use it. Drop me a note (0401357976) or swing by 4 Arbor Street and ask for me; I'm pretty much always here.
http://imgur.com/nkUnuST
|
11-Feb-2016 9:54:01 PM
|
Freaking Rad... How was/is Utah? Where are you based out there?
|
11-Feb-2016 10:32:06 PM
|
I'm from Salt Lake; my dad's house is 3 minutes from Big Cottonwood Canyon. I go from my bed to soloing a 120 metre buttress in 12 minutes. Skiing takes another 10 or 15 but I can suck it up. If you're ever over I'd be happy to show you around, take you elk huntin' or something.
|
12-Feb-2016 8:11:32 AM
|
Does indeed look rad ! Can you train on it solo or do you need a belay ? Cant quite make out from the picture
|
12-Feb-2016 4:18:51 PM
|
Like anything, solo as high as you are comfortable. I solo the first two of the three sets of sleepers. Then there is either a ring lock for me or a really long reach to a thin hand. The surface is exterior paint with sand in it. Come try it out!
|
13-Feb-2016 11:19:02 PM
|
On 11/02/2016 Singersmith wrote:
>I'm from Salt Lake; my dad's house is 3 minutes from Big Cottonwood Canyon.
>I go from my bed to soloing a 120 metre buttress in 12 minutes. Skiing
>takes another 10 or 15 but I can suck it up. If you're ever over I'd be
>happy to show you around, take you elk huntin' or something.
I certainly miss SLC and LCC. I'd love to get back there soon and play at the Bird. There's a lot to love about Ut;)
|
14-Feb-2016 8:58:11 PM
|
I only live in Preston and walk the hound down the creek all theme i'll txt you in the next week if thats cool. P.S. also love Utah
|
17-Feb-2016 7:26:04 PM
|
Long time no see Singer. I just moved in around the corner on the creek. Be good to catch up. U still got the slackline set up??
|
17-Feb-2016 9:24:34 PM
|
Geez we're going to have to have an Alphington - Chockstone BBQ aren't we?
|
17-Feb-2016 9:44:08 PM
|
And talk Singer into making a crack for bigger hands.....fark.... has that perfectly insecure feel to it with giant mitts...could be my technique though....
|
18-Feb-2016 4:56:53 PM
|
On 13/02/2016 Miguel75 wrote:
>I certainly miss SLC and LCC. I'd love to get back there soon and play
>at the Bird. There's a lot to love about Ut;)
Come back out to the West for a visit, Mike, we can go play at Trout Creek and Smith...
|
19-Feb-2016 9:21:55 PM
|
On 18/02/2016 Ben_E wrote:
>On 13/02/2016 Miguel75 wrote:
>
>>I certainly miss SLC and LCC. I'd love to get back there soon and play
>>at the Bird. There's a lot to love about Ut;)
>
>Come back out to the West for a visit, Mike, we can go play at Trout Creek
>and Smith...
Hello stranger. Hope all's well and you're getting lots of climbing/NW playing in. I'll flick you an email to catch up.
|
21-Feb-2016 9:18:44 AM
|
On 17/02/2016 gfdonc wrote:
>Geez we're going to have to have an Alphington - Chockstone BBQ aren't
>we?
>
I could host that. Good time for me to do a burn off.
|