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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

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At the risk of a character assasination...

expat

16-May-2005
2:05:18 PM

I take as much gear as I can lift, the janglier the clangier the betterer, particularly if the grade is below 16. In fact the lower the grade the more gear I take. And hey by the way I'm a gettin' grade fever. How about someone actually describe one of their routes. THAT'd be something to read. I'll lead the first pitch. Sport climbs are great but the dialog is f%$#^%$g dull.

Around The Kangaroo Point Dunnies 15 - Start at the concrete pole outside the ladies with some wicked slopers and friction moves (this is the crux the other being the pole outside the mens - traverse right using the convenient roof edge with friction only for feet (pumpy!) (upgraded since gardeners have allowed fig trees to get out of control - using foliage qualifies as AID) - around the back leads to much the same as before - as does the other side until the final crux concrete pole which has become very greasy owing to the popularity of the KP toilets - a recent controversy is the downgrading of AKPD by a visiting Victorian contingent who pointed out that the whole climb is a restroom.
:)


cheesehead

16-May-2005
10:55:08 PM

On 14/04/2005 adski wrote:
>Cruze, I have no doubt most of the photos of elite climbers doing hard
>gear routes with little on their harness is because they're doing a lap
>for the cameras.

Definitely. Ones harness gear can be quite contrived, particularly if the name on your draws has to be visible too.

M8:
>As an aside, I have lately taken up the habit of doubling (or tripling) up thinnish gear >prior to crux moves rather than relying on only one piece to keep me from a nasty >landing...

Good call. I learnt that one in the UK. Good trad styles there (double ropes, backing up ordinary gear, etc)


sabu

17-May-2005
10:21:22 PM

im slowly learning!!! took my first trad lead fall the other day onto a cam!! i was so scared of it falling out i placed a hex just to make myself feel better! my partner actaully placed the cam but couldn't get past the move (oldschool crack lotsa jamming not enough confidence) so of course he threw me on to watch me fall to make him feel better!!! i had to downclimb to get all the gear our we were only like 3m off the deck anyway! but im learning!!!

mikepatt

18-May-2005
9:06:49 AM

Personally as an easy/moderate trad multipitch climber I suggest you get used to carrying as much gear as possible. If I'm venturing out on to long stuff e.g. 200-300m routes I'll usually carry a big rack plus approach shoes plus a small pack with 3 litres of water, food and spare clothing.. I'm fairly used to leading easy stuff with that kind of load but sometimes pack haul on difficult pitches. If you get used to carrying heavy gear/rack you'll feel a lot better when you climb shorter stuff with a smaller more appropriate rack.


Eduardo Slabofvic

18-May-2005
12:08:13 PM

Every bird likes to have a nest to come back to after it has taken to flight. I climb like those birds.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

19-May-2005
8:27:59 AM

>I climb like those birds
Have a fair bit of air time do we?
~>Ha ! .... a character assasination... ?
:P
:)

Wendy

19-May-2005
10:16:13 AM

Eduardo's flight time is encouraged by his stout policy. Up one stout per plummet, down one stout per slump. Climbing partner in credit at end of day is indulged at pub.


tmarsh

19-May-2005
4:12:53 PM

If I had any doubt about Slabovic's identity, it has been erased. The stout rule clinches it!

tim


steph

19-Jun-2005
2:23:05 PM

I'm pretty new to trad leading, especially on mutipitches, but I go by two things when choosing gear to take up: 1 - the guide book's recommendations. 2 - if climbing a large crack, take large gear; if climbing a thin crack, take small nuts etc etc. if climbing a rocky outcrop, take lots of slings.

I agree with a couple of the above messages saying that you're not likely to onsight a trad lead at your sport lead limit. The moves are harder to make nomatter how small the rack is, and you're more focussed on getting up safely than pulling some sweet technical moves.


Eduardo Slabofvic

20-Jun-2005
9:53:40 AM

On 19/05/2005 Wendy wrote:
>Eduardo's flight time is encouraged by his stout policy. Up one stout
>per plummet, down one stout per slump. Climbing partner in credit at end
>of day is indulged at pub.

Just to clarify the stout rules.

If the bottom biner of the top runner is above your waist and you come off, it is 1 stout to your belayer. If the bottom biner of the top runner is between your waist and your feet, then this is the neutral zone, and no stout changes hands if you come off. If the bottom biner of the top draw is below your feet and you come off, you have earned 1 stout.

I like stout.


mousey

20-Jun-2005
10:01:32 AM

what would one have to do in order to earn a night out?? (ranging anywhere from 4 to 17 stouts dpending on the company, the mood, whats on tv, and how much coughherbcough is left)


adski

20-Jun-2005
10:19:25 AM


cheesehead

20-Jun-2005
10:30:33 PM

We used to play the woose-pack game - if you yell take or grab gear, you owe each member of the party a sixpack. It's enough of a sting to discourage such shenanigans, yet not too exy if you really are in dire straits. - but the stout game sounds much more palatable

jmgh

20-Jun-2005
11:25:19 PM

On 20/06/2005 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>I like stout.

Eduardo, is this a variation, precursor or development of the stout bouldering I was introduced to in the eighties? Just trying to get the chronology straight.


mousey

20-Jun-2005
11:40:22 PM

would anyone object to me hijacking this thrad? no? ok good.
just thought you should all take the time to go over to rockclimbing.com and check out some of the absolute beaut photos that phil box has been posting....


cheesehead

21-Jun-2005
7:34:10 AM

It was hardly still pure anyway - unlike a glass of Monteith's summer ale...


Eduardo Slabofvic

21-Jun-2005
6:52:31 PM

On 20/06/2005 jon the pom wrote:
> Eduardo, is this a variation, precursor or development of the stout bouldering
>I was introduced to in the eighties? Just trying to get the chronology
>straight.

More of an extrapolation of a theme.

There are 37 messages in this topic.