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Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

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the necessity of hexes these days


sabu

21-Apr-2005
1:49:33 PM

Eexcellent!! (evil grin on face while tapping fingers together)

dalai

21-Apr-2005
1:52:06 PM

Or Parks Victoria pay off one of the regulars to note all negative posts and compile a comprehensive dossier...


Rich

21-Apr-2005
6:40:26 PM

On 21/04/2005 nmonteith wrote:
>On 21/04/2005 sabu wrote:
>>oh, the rangers actually moniter wat we say about them, this isn't good.
>
>Don't worry folks. We will not be censoring anything you want to say about
>rangers. With the amount of posts per day on this forum - they woudl have
>to employ someone full-time to keep track of us!!

Or just ahve one of them 'work' behind a comp like many of us here


sabu

22-Apr-2005
1:10:42 AM

ahh i c so when i visit araps they can pull the file on me and interegate me in the toilets about all the things i said bout them.....


climbau

22-Apr-2005
8:50:33 AM

I revisited hexes last weekend. It was the best thing I'd done in ages, I even had to stack a hex with a wire in a belay. It was soooooo cool! However I always thought that hexes were far superior than cams when it came to Araps, and last weekend at The Rock opened my eyes to even more possibilities. Now I just have to decide whether wired hexes or slung hexes are the way to go :(


sabu

22-Apr-2005
4:59:22 PM

ahh i only hav the wired hexes.


climbau

22-Apr-2005
5:14:30 PM

Yeah the wired seem really good and are definately easier to place, but I like the idea of the extra placement in a slung hex.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

22-Apr-2005
6:04:07 PM

You are right climbau re wired hexes 'losing' a placement.
They can also be hard to retrieve if they were fiddled into position to start with, because when the wire is pushed to move the piece back before lifting it up (in some placements), I have found the wire to simply slide in the holes rather than actually move the piece as intended...


sabu

22-Apr-2005
6:59:49 PM

yes thats true the wires tend to move a lot so you hav to almost hold the hex and move it in place yourself

Bruce

23-Apr-2005
8:02:09 PM

the problem with wired hexes is they're more likely to pop than slung ones cause wire has less give than a sling... although when i was first learning to lead, i was seconding someone who put a single slung hex for me to belay off on the traverse pitch of phoenix (he highlighted how good it was and that it alone would be enough) and had it pop, when i asked him if he could get safeish so i could re-place it (i didn't tell him it popped) i got a rather agressive "NO!" in response, freaked me out... till this day he still doesn't know it popped :)


ShinToe Warrior

23-Apr-2005
8:36:12 PM

Lucky you are around to post to chockstone, unfortunate that the leader's ego and disregard
for safety got in the way of constructing a decent belay anchor. He could have got you both maimed or
killed....


sabu

25-Apr-2005
10:18:49 PM

yea. i was up at Camels today and placed a small-ish hex at the belay of SZE, it took a pully system made of a static rope and krabs to loosen the bloody thing, we had to pull it sideways with the pully, and then knock it back to actually get it out. i was very pleased! it was a slung hex.


LittleMac

26-Apr-2005
10:12:48 AM

What did you do to make it jam that hard, hit it with a hammer, or was it just a series of repeated loadings. That's pretty extreme jamming in my opinion. Good effort though going to all the trouble to set up a mechanical system to get it out.

dalai

26-Apr-2005
10:15:43 AM

and potentially damaging the placement by having to force the piece out...


LittleMac

26-Apr-2005
10:19:25 AM

Good point, I just can't understand how you could get the hex that stuck in that particular placement


sabu

26-Apr-2005
12:20:39 PM

well i had my weight on it while i was belaying, i also tugged it when i placed it?????????? man i dunno but it was stuck hard!!! it was a solid hex so the damage wouldn't hav been that great. i couldn't leave it behind knowing that some one else could get it...

armyiain

27-Apr-2005
12:02:15 PM

what size hexes (or probably - what size rockcentrics) to people recommend for someone building their trad rack?


Superstu

27-Apr-2005
12:33:46 PM

one of each ! it's cheaper if you buy a set in one hit anyway

you probably won't need anything smaller than your largest wired nut

the big ones (#8 - #10) will get used if you bother to carry them, but obviously it depends on where you climb and what sort of climb you are doing

gfdonc

27-Apr-2005
12:51:21 PM

3 to 9.
or 4 to 8 if you want to keep the numbers down.
Caveat: I haven't shopped for these items for years, so I'm assuming the current BD hexes are the same size as the Camp hexes which were the same size as the original Chouinard hexes.
I reckon cord or tape, not wire to avoid the wire levering the nut out of its placement, possibly excepting #3 (it's hard to get 7mm through which is really the minimum for fall rating. I don't like spectra for its slipperyness and loss of strength when knotting).


adski

27-Apr-2005
1:23:03 PM

6-10

There are 92 messages in this topic.