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Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40
Author
RPs for Araps

IdratherbeclimbingM9
17/12/2009
1:28:24 PM
On 17/12/2009 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>Below is a perfect example of a well placed Hex / wire at Arapiles

Arapiles or USA desert sandstone?

mattjr
17/12/2009
1:32:03 PM
Though i've only been to Araps a dozen or so times i've managed to get by without RP's all together. I have plenty of small alloy nut sizes and a set of brass offsets that go puckerishly small. I'm not about to run out and get a set, I find the profile too chunky for general use.
prb
17/12/2009
1:32:52 PM
You can usually tell if you're not going to need big gear, but you can't usually tell that small gear won't
come in handy. I mostly take all I have except for hexes, but they go as well on big Moonarie climbs.
When I started climbing at Arapiles I bought an RP (a #1); it's certainly come in handy!

..::- Chris -::..
17/12/2009
1:47:20 PM
On 17/12/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 17/12/2009 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>>Below is a perfect example of a well placed Hex / wire at Arapiles
>
>Arapiles or USA desert sandstone?
>

Don't ruin my perfectly good arapiles post with truth... Spoil everything.... haven't you got some gear to pull on somewhere... ; )

porkpie
17/12/2009
2:00:15 PM
Thanks for the advice and sorry to open old wounds Simey and Wendy. I think I will get a set of RPs
and see how I go for the week, guess I can always get some more later in Nati/Horsham? I am keen for
one route that will need them (Auto De Fe), otherwise I think the normal rack should suffice. Re. number
5 camelot - I don't own one and don't ever want to climb anything that requires one.
simey
17/12/2009
2:03:43 PM
On 17/12/2009 porkpie wrote:
>Thanks for the advice and sorry to open old wounds Simey and Wendy.

That's okay. Hopefully this thread will help Wendy see the error of her ways and stop being so stubborn on the matter.
Wendy
17/12/2009
2:22:43 PM
Now Simey, what would we have to talk about if we agreed on these things?
Wendy
17/12/2009
2:29:35 PM
On 17/12/2009 The good Dr wrote:
>I always carry them as they weigh very little and you never know when they
>will come in handy. I got caught out on an off-width (Magical Mystery Tour
>at Frog) where my #6 friend was far enough below me that it was useless.
>In my concerned state I was looking for gear anywhere. Higher up I found
>a perfect slot for a #3RP - which was on the ground and not on my harness.
>A salient lesson.

Strangely enough, I did actually have small wires on me on that climb, and I did even put one in up high, quite possibly where you are thinking. My 2nd was very scathing that I had a completely bomber 5 camalot 2m below me and I bothered placing a shitty little rp. I think that was the same trip that my biner of small wires (which was quite extensive at the time) was stolen after I chose to leave it on my pack instead of taking it up Gladiator. Hence why I didn't have many until Simey started hassling me about it and Anthony at least listened to him. Maybe that salient lesson is to carry your micro wires on every climb in case some thin face or manky aid climbing kleptomaniac comes along.
Wendy
17/12/2009
2:30:14 PM
On 17/12/2009 porkpie wrote:
Re. number
>5 camelot - I don't own one and don't ever want to climb anything that
>requires one.

You are so missing out ...
gfdonc
17/12/2009
3:15:51 PM
Auto Da Fe, equalise a #3 and #4 before the crux - bomber.

If you ever need size #1 and #2, odds are you need more than one of them. A sliding X between two such wires does wonders for my confidence.

A #5 sometimes sits properly where other wires don't.
Duncan
17/12/2009
3:40:03 PM
*BETA ALERT*

Missing Link absolutely eats small wires. I would have been shitting bricks without all my micro wires.

ambyeok
17/12/2009
3:54:46 PM
Mini-rocks suck at Arapiles. I have been carrying two around for over a year now and have never placed them (for longer than enough time to say "oh, thats shit" and then take them out again). I go the peanuts and RP's. Anyone want a couple of mini-rocks? If there is enough interest I will come up with a suitable competition to win, with free postage, two useless mini-rocks with only some minor scratches (probably from where they bounced against the rock as I was placing a fantastic peanut/RP)
robertsonja
17/12/2009
5:55:46 PM
On 17/12/2009 ambyeok wrote:
>Mini-rocks suck at Arapiles.

Correct, I hardly ever place them, they are too flat and uniform/parallel.

DMM Peenuts are definately the way forward. WC Superlight Rocks (rocks on a single wire) are also sweet.
Wendy
17/12/2009
6:16:02 PM
Aren't they like the miniwalnuts (the minirocks that is)? I like my mini walnuts and relative to the minimal placing of small wires that I do, use them quite a lot.
patto
17/12/2009
6:20:23 PM
I second peenuts. They absolutely rock. Mildly offset perfect for arapiles cracks.

ambyeok
17/12/2009
9:05:53 PM
On 17/12/2009 Wendy wrote:
>Aren't they like the miniwalnuts (the minirocks that is)? I like my mini
>walnuts and relative to the minimal placing of small wires that I do, use
>them quite a lot.

Actually looking at the pictures on the web I find it incredibly hard to distinquish any difference betweem DMM micro wallnuts and WC mini rocks. Im surprised you find them so useful. Placed on the thin edge they are only rated to 2KN. I am still waiting for expressions of interest for my mini-rocks... anybody? Two or more takers and we have a competition in the making.......

wallwombat
17/12/2009
9:23:25 PM
On 17/12/2009 ambyeok wrote:
>On 17/12/2009 Wendy wrote:
>> I am still waiting for expressions of interest for my
>mini-rocks... anybody? Two or more takers and we have a competition in
>the making.......

Put's hand up.
Hugh
17/12/2009
9:37:51 PM
mine too! *perhaps we could see who's game enough to fall on them then....?*
Wendy
17/12/2009
10:09:40 PM
On 17/12/2009 Hugh wrote:
>mine too! *perhaps we could see who's game enough to fall on them then....?*

I've definately sat on mine. Not sure about the falling bit. I find they slide into deep but tiny cracks at arapiles quite fine. I find them somewhat more reassuring size wise than rps, but rps to go into spots the other don't, usually because the placement is shallow. I've never had peenuts, but I'm not generally a fan of offset gear. I think I try not to be a fan of new gear because I really do carry enough of it already without adding new toys.

wallwombat
17/12/2009
10:19:24 PM
On 17/12/2009 Wendy wrote:
>On 17/12/2009 Hugh wrote:
>...I try not to be a fan of new gear because I really do carry enough of it already
>without adding new toys.

That's how I feel too. I can barely get off the ground with my rack, as it is.

I wouldn't mind a #4 Camalot though. It would stop my #3 and #5 from getting lonely.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40
There are 40 messages in this topic.

 

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