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breaking ALDI climbing gear


ambyeok

7-Aug-2009
3:31:34 PM

In any practical situation there is no resisting force preventing picture two from becoming picture one in a fraction of a second

Al-bear C

13-Aug-2009
10:11:39 AM

I haven't been trained as an engineer, but I have been trained as a scientist. It would be interesting to test 10 or more biners to get a mean and standard deviation of the breaking force. To have enough statistically power, your would need to test about 25 biners, but I think after testing 10 or so, you'll get a pretty good idea on the variance between biners.


anthonyk

13-Aug-2009
10:53:16 AM

all we need now is a software engineer to take the biner off and put it back on again to see if it starts working again

patto

13-Aug-2009
11:59:19 AM

On 13/08/2009 Al-bear C wrote:
>I haven't been trained as an engineer, but I have been trained as a scientist.
>It would be interesting to test 10 or more biners to get a mean and standard
>deviation of the breaking force. To have enough statistically power, your
>would need to test about 25 biners, but I think after testing 10 or so,
>you'll get a pretty good idea on the variance between biners.

It is my understanding that you'll find that the mean breaking strength is roughly 10% more than the rated strength. The standard deveiation is roughly 3%. Thus this places the rated strength on the 3sigma threshold as would be expected.

Naturally these figures are very rough but a 3% SD is not unexpected.

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