Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Gear Lust / Lost & Found

Rave About Your Rack Please do not post retail SPAM.

Author

Ropes


wallwombat

18-May-2009
9:35:09 PM

I think the difference is that Mammut are honest.

yumpet

20-May-2009
9:49:31 PM

they were really good with the reply and quick too, i would buy again just from their service!!


..::- Chris -::..

21-May-2009
10:44:26 AM

Sort of off topic here but i was keen to get peoples opinions on the difference between these ropes

Both Beal ropes the top one has been rated with 11 UIAA falls but an impact Force of 7.4 kN yet the bottem one only is rated at 8 UIAA falls but an has impact force of 8kN

"TOP GUN II" 10.5mm X 60M. (Dry Cover) -
Weight/mtr - 68gms.
UIAA Falls - 11.
Impact Force - 7.4 kN

"EDLINGER II" 10.2mm X 60M. (STD)
Weight/mtr - 65gms.
UIAA Falls - 8.
Impact Force - 8 kN

What in most peoples opinion is more important (priorities wise?) UIAA Falls, Impact Force, Colour : ) , weight...

Cheers
C.


ajfclark

21-May-2009
11:00:45 AM

On 21/05/2009 ..::- Chris -::.. wrote:
>What in most peoples opinion is more important (priorities wise?) UIAA Falls, Impact Force, Colour : ) , weight...

Maybe you should start a poll... handling, thickness, brand?


jkane

21-May-2009
12:49:57 PM

Don't forget price.


..::- Chris -::..

21-May-2009
1:10:55 PM

It's hard to do a poll because everyone's choice is going to be based on a number of things... Hence the question of Priority order...

eg...
1. UIAAFALLS
2. Impact Force
3. Thickness
4. Weight
5. Brand
6. Colour
7. Price ; )


gordoste

21-May-2009
3:20:38 PM

From my understanding impact force is a measure of the force the climber feels on the end of the rope. My guess is that you're not even going to notice this difference (I'm guessing your belayer would probably make more difference than the rope's impact force). Has anyone ever bought a rope that they really noticed the softness or hardness of the catch?


ajfclark

21-May-2009
3:30:13 PM

On 21/05/2009 gordoste wrote:
>From my understanding impact force is a measure of the force the climber feels on the end of the rope.

If you feel less impact then your gear would too, right?


..::- Chris -::..

21-May-2009
3:41:12 PM

On 21/05/2009 gordoste wrote:
>From my understanding impact force is a measure of the force the climber
>feels on the end of the rope. My guess is that you're not even going to
>notice this difference (I'm guessing your belayer would probably make more
>difference than the rope's impact force). Has anyone ever bought a rope
>that they really noticed the softness or hardness of the catch?
>

SO by that rational the preference would be roughly...

UIAA Falls,
Weight / Thickness
Costs
Impact Force
Colour


peterc

23-May-2009
10:52:08 PM

In answer to Gordo's question about noticing impact forces - I used to think that it didn't make much difference, and that it would be hard or impossible to perceive differences in impact forces. But then I conducted some rope testing a few years ago that involved taking lead falls on a number of different ropes.

The falls were all taken on the same climb, onto the same bolt, from identical heights with a series of ropes. A number of us took the falls and then rated the ropes from hardest to softest catch (without knowing the ratings of the ropes before we took to the air).

At the end of the testing, I compiled the ratings from everyone and then looked at the impact forces of the ropes and discovered that all of us had the order correct (except for one climber who had one rope out of sequence - but then the difference in impact forces between those two ropes was not much anyway).

In other words, we were all able to tell the difference.


muki

24-May-2009
8:19:03 PM

I climb on a 9.4mm rope, great for hard leads where I want to feel no rope weight, and minimal drag.
Gives a great catch, very soft, I'm falling further than I would with an 11mm or 10.5mm but it's worth it.
I recently saw a mates rope that was 8.6mm but could not tell the difference between his rope and mine.
Some manufactures rate the diameter of a rope while under load, whilst with others the rope is at rest.


wallwombat

24-May-2009
11:29:14 PM

On 24/05/2009 bomber pro wrote:
>I climb on a 9.4mm rope

I thought you used a GriGri.

How do you go with a 9.4mm rope when 10mm is the smallest diameter allowable (although, I think they say 9.8mm is OK with one now) when using a GriGri?

I climb on a 9.4mm too and I love it but recently bought a 10mm to rope solo with the GriGri and so I don't trash the skinny cord too quickly.

Also like my 8.5mm doubles but don't get to use them that often.

devlin66

25-May-2009
9:12:58 AM

I find my mates Sterling 9.4 quite good in the Gri-Gri. It takes the catch and holds when he is sitting on the rope. Lowering is a different matter though. It is very slick. I just wrap the rope 'round my backside and it's super easy.


muki

25-May-2009
10:34:01 AM

The gri gri is no problem on the 9.4 rope, but when rope soloing I use my 10.2 cos its my work rope.
And I even used it on the mates 8.6 with no problems at all, use care when lowering with the gri gri.
If I used my 9.4 on rope solo I would just use back up knots every now and then to guarantee the catch.

Wendy

25-May-2009
11:42:19 AM

A gri gri doesn't catch on my 9.1. But other than that, it's a fabulous rope. Well, my partner refuses to climb on it because it's too skinny but I think it's a fabulous rope.

I swear the Mammut supersafe has the worst catch in the world. I thump onto that one. Being little, I find a get quite a hard catch generally because my belayers tend to move about a mm, and the difference between a low/high impact force rope is very noticable.

Back on the original topic, I had a sterling 9.7 that I just retired that is about 12 years old. It had very light use for the first 10 years then I decided to turn it into a dogging rope. It did trash pretty quickly - I originally thought that might be because old ropes do wear faster - I had another friend pull an old rope out of the cupboard at a similar time and it looked pretty trashed within the year. The other theory could be that dogging is just hard on your ropes - it's not something I'd done much of before and hence my ropes went from 3-5 year lifespans to 1-2 years.

There are 35 messages in this topic.