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Almost buggered up pretty bad


nmonteith

16-Jan-2012
5:06:14 PM

On 16/01/2012 hero wrote:
>I did hear a story about someone who fell and the krab clipped through
>their achilles tendon but I don't remember the details and it may have
>been apocryphal.

That happened to a friend of Doug Hockleys in Townsville in the 90s. It was a DMM Mamba.

widewetandslippery

16-Jan-2012
5:11:59 PM

That photo loosened my codine plug


ajfclark

16-Jan-2012
5:15:33 PM

On the second page of the linked thread you'll find a long post where Patrick tells the story of how it happened.

mikllaw

16-Jan-2012
5:27:19 PM

Steve Howden was on some piece of tiny RP fiddly nastiness at Araps and had just placed the worst 1 RP in the world, but it was stuck and he couldn't remove it to try to get a better one in. There was good gear a few too many meters below.

In a fast calm panic he decided to downclimb and at this point, discovered that his earrings were too attractive. He was just below the piece, with fast fading fingers, when he realised that his fab new romantic glam girl lure had hooked the biner, he couldn't pull up or free up a hand to undo himself.

It wasn't too bad, he turned a piercing into something pissing blood as he took the fall.

egosan

16-Jan-2012
5:50:41 PM

On 16/01/2012 ajfclark wrote:
>On the second page of the linked thread you'll find a long post where Patrick
>tells the story of how it happened.

From the thread:

Have word the gear has been retrieved. The exchange is being negotiated.

Mike, you are welcome to take that after work hike but it should no longer be for booty spotting.

Paul, the fall was at the gear. Left hand reaching for finger jug above the gear, right hand being stoopid looking for something below the gear in the nothing crack. Both feet to the left, back/shoulder against the right. Feet failed, body went into the corner, draw pressed against a massive bicep, and then...meathook! Yes, at the end of the fall there was slack in the rope and both feet were in the air. All the weight was suspended on the f---er that broke on through the arm. I suck at climbing.

Once i realized my problem i shouted a few choice expletives and realized i had few options. Fortunate to have both arms still working I pulled up on the gear (bomber nut at the finger jug) and tried to pull the f---er out of the arm. I got it to move out about an inch to how it looks in the picture. Despite pulling, pushing, turning and wiggling the f---er it would not come out, it was hooked on something quite painful.

I thought about manning up and pulling it out, tearing through whatever was in the way. I am not tough like that. So I am still holding myself up on the gear and still have the rope through the f---er, the f---er still in my arm, no feet, full on panic mode, and the thought of falling or lowering back onto the f---er.

After some struggle I clipped into the nut with a short draw and clipped it to the harness. I thought from this restful position I could try again to get the f---er out of my arm. Such a poor choice. Pain is now intense, more intense, f---er still in and f---ing with me. I begin to laugh at the absurdity of the situation but come to terms with my desire to get down from there and seek professional f---er removal. I got the rope unclipped from the f---er, put it through another draw, unclipped and lowered.

During lowering Mike was wondering up the trail and offered to get help. I was pretty sure I didn't need rangers or rescue people laughing and the blood loss was somehow minimal. But the sensible side came through and thought it wouldn't be a bad idea in case i passed out on the way down.

I got off the rock with Jen's help, climbed down to the trail (minor downclimb from the start ledge), took off the climbing shoes and started hiking down. I asked Jen to pick up my shoes once she collects all the crap at the base. Jen, sorry for making you carry everything.

I make it down to the creek and meet the rangers near the Milton Boulder. They offered to help but there is not much that can be done at this point. Nobody was going to touch the f---er without some sweet tools and drugs. The rangers offered neither. They did tape the gate open for me as the pinching of a flap of skin hurt a bit. That helped somewhat.

So now Jen, my friend that gives a good belay, comes down the trail to the car and informs me she cannot drive stick. At the time it seemed more absurd than the f---er in the arm. I asked the rangers for a ride...no can do. I am in panic mode again. Then Mr. Mtn Proj himself came into my life. He was more than happy (once i proved i wasn't bleeding too much) to drive me to the hospital, and his friend drove my car with Jen. Finally, things are looking up.

I went to Avista in Louisville per the rangers suggestion, not sure why there but the Doc was nice and the ER was empty. I got quick service, Nick got a good picture, the drugs and tools were effective. The f---er was removed.

I think six or seven people got pictures. All were amazed at the freakish horror.

I have since seen an Orthopedic and was told something like 'The shit we can fix you didn't break and the shit you broke we cannot fix.' I think that was pretty good news. The doc asked when I wanted to climb again and I told him how my gear was still up there and that today (last Tuesday) would be perfect. He said let's talk next Monday when we remove the stitches.

So you ask if anything was damaged...umm, did you see that picture? I don't have a list, but muscles heal, skin heals, not sure about my pride. I may have severed a small nerve as I still have a numb patch on my forearm. But a full recovery is expected of range of motion and strength.

And now with word of the gear being retrieved I should be able to rest up for as long as it takes. Thanks all.


The good Dr

16-Jan-2012
6:35:24 PM

Not as exciting, but have seen the finger loop on a tape glove clip into the biner on a cam arm depth in a crack happen twice. It is amazing how long it takes to sort that out.

hero

17-Jan-2012
11:38:21 AM

>You seen the Human Centipede yet Hero?

How about 8 legs bad?

Just to liven up Tuesday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=U87zVkIXNI0&feature=related

martym

17-Jan-2012
3:12:41 PM

On 15/01/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>Ever since I started climbing (20 years!) I've had a little bit of climbing
>4mm cord tied around my ankle as a kind of piece of jewelery. it's held
>tight with a double fishermans knot.

I told a mate I was going to get a prussick loop necklace (which I could then use in an emergency) to hold my wedding ring, in order not to have my finger ripped off if I got it caught.
He pointed out, that it would be worse to fall and get the prussick loop caught and thus choke myself.
Of course, well woven t-shirts would probably choke you if caught as well, so the answer is to just go shirtless I guess!


Sabu

17-Jan-2012
3:29:33 PM

On 17/01/2012 martym wrote:
>On 15/01/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>>Ever since I started climbing (20 years!) I've had a little bit of climbing
>>4mm cord tied around my ankle as a kind of piece of jewelery. it's held
>>tight with a double fishermans knot.
>
>I told a mate I was going to get a prussick loop necklace (which I could
>then use in an emergency) to hold my wedding ring, in order not to have
>my finger ripped off if I got it caught.

I already do this, got a number 3 nut on some cord around my neck and i keep my ring on it while climbing too. Never felt like it was close to catching on anything. Personally I'd be more worried about a ring my finger than around my neck!

bones

17-Jan-2012
3:49:02 PM

On 17/01/2012 Sabu wrote:
>I already do this, got a number 3 nut on some cord around my neck and
>i keep my ring on it while climbing too. Never felt like it was close to
>catching on anything. Personally I'd be more worried about a ring my finger
>than around my neck!

Cord around the neck is one thing, but I reckon a nut on that is just asking for trouble! I find it amazing how easily nuts get caught on things..

widewetandslippery

17-Jan-2012
3:55:07 PM

I'd be more concerned about a finger in my ring.

The Truncheon had one of those way homo dangly earings get caught on the rope mid roof kachoong (near limit at time). It was ok, geoff had down soloed to the lip to laugh at him.

White Trash

17-Jan-2012
4:19:30 PM

On 17/01/2012 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I'd be more concerned about a finger in my ring.
>
do yuo have trouble with your fig eight tied in one continuos motion like useless to?

I leave the ring at home while climbing so dont have to worry about it.


Eduardo Slabofvic

17-Jan-2012
4:25:27 PM

I can mange to kepp my figure 8 well clear of any of my motions

kieranl

17-Jan-2012
4:43:38 PM

On 17/01/2012 martym wrote:
>He pointed out, that it would be worse to fall and get the prussick loop
>caught and thus choke myself.
People have been killed by slings around their neck, as distinct from over the shoulder, getting caught on something during a fall. Prussick loop around the neck is a low probability risk but if it happens it won't be nice. Do you really need to carry your wedding ring all of the time? I know Noddy has a routine where he takes off his wedding ring and stores it in the same way every time he climbs.

widewetandslippery

17-Jan-2012
5:04:33 PM

aren't weddings and marriage obsolete? Then again, marriage, gay marriage and we get back to the original topic, buggered.

There are 35 messages in this topic.