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Accident on Loboff 5/3/2011 |
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10-Mar-2011 9:06:35 AM
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On 10/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>And while I'm ranting, I'm going to paraphrase ODH.
>
>Loboff is a farching worthless piece of mank!
It would be a classic grit test piece in the UK.
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10-Mar-2011 9:09:46 AM
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On 10/03/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>On 10/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>And while I'm ranting, I'm going to paraphrase ODH.
>>
>>Loboff is a farching worthless piece of mank!
>
>It would be a classic grit test piece in the UK.
I could make some ODH style comments about my experiences of climbing on grit too.
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10-Mar-2011 9:27:11 AM
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On 10/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>
>Take the whole of the Plaque area in your guidebook and use it as ES would
>recommend.
Disagree strongly. Maximus is an excellent route, and that bit of the wall left of the corner is as good as any bit of rock you could mention at the mount. Get over the "Oh its the Plaque, its so uncool, bumblies top rope there" attitude
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10-Mar-2011 9:45:13 AM
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On 10/03/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>It would be a classic grit test piece in the UK.
Perhaps a classic boulder problem - which it is!
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10-Mar-2011 11:59:09 AM
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On 10/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>Loboff is a farching worthless piece of mank!
>If any of you find yourself with an overwhelming desire to lead it, hit yourself over the head with a wet fish and get over it!...Go and treat yourself to the abundent quality routes at the same grade to be had at the Mt - Yoyo, Saracen, Dirge, Watchtower Crack, Libretto, Iphegenia etc etc.
Loboff (and several other routes in the Plaque area) aren't 'worthless', they're fun V0- highballs/solos on wonderful rock, best done when the abseilers and schoolkids have disappeared. If you tried, you could break your ribs on any of the climbs above.
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10-Mar-2011 4:03:49 PM
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hey dudes!!! cool your jets!! im not very smart but consider myself to be a mature grown adult who can make his own decisions! that was a bad decision!! now back off and start building bridges ok! and i like beer and there was fresh lobster and abalony to be had for dinner that evening so the first thing that came through my head after the fall was "im not spending ther night in the emergancy department and miss the feast!" i think i made the right decision! : ) thanks andy, your a legend! if any one wants to discuss this further i am at the pines and your more than welcome to come and have a beer wit me!
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10-Mar-2011 4:16:40 PM
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Good to hear you're on the mend.
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10-Mar-2011 4:19:10 PM
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On 10/03/2011 larryfranklin wrote:
>there was fresh lobster and abalony to be had for dinner that evening
At least you would have died a happy man! Don't take much written on this forum too seriously. Your accident just made a potentially boring day more interesting - and sparked of the usual debates about mostly unrelated stuff.
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10-Mar-2011 7:41:31 PM
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>i am at the pines and your more than
>welcome to come and have a beer wit me!
Sounds like this won't cut your trip short? if so good news, see you at easter!
Ps, i still have a photo of you wearing boobie shoes, clutching a miniture blow up doll....
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10-Mar-2011 8:29:26 PM
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On 10/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>On 10/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>
>>Take the whole of the Plaque area in your guidebook and use it as ES would recommend.
>
>Disagree strongly. Maximus is an excellent route, and that bit of the
>wall left of the corner is as good as any bit of rock you could mention
>at the mount. Get over the "Oh its the Plaque, its so uncool, bumblies
>top rope there" attitude
On that theme, I heard that a well known Chockstone identity was there at Loboff before the accident, and left before it happened too.
He was with another bloke and they did a route on the front of the Plaque.
Apparently he was chatting offering encouragement etc, and after watching for a while and seeing the level of expertise involved in the many false starts and hesitation with the gear(!), suggested that they maybe top-rope this as it would be much safer, and then they left*.
(*His words, not mine, as I was not there and offer no judgement advice! Heh, heh, heh).
Maybe there is middle ground here, ie toprope it if needed to do it safely if caution dictates, regardless of climbing status?
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11-Mar-2011 9:46:58 AM
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I meant right of the corner - whoops
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11-Mar-2011 1:58:43 PM
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On 10/03/2011 Eduardo Slabofvic. wrote:
>On 10/03/2011 Wendy wrote:
>>
>>Take the whole of the Plaque area in your guidebook and use it as ES
>would
>>recommend.
>
>Disagree strongly. Maximus is an excellent route, and that bit of the
>wall left of the corner is as good as any bit of rock you could mention
>at the mount. Get over the "Oh its the Plaque, its so uncool, bumblies
>top rope there" attitude
Go on, Maximus was an OK route 20 or so years ago. Now as well as suffering from being 10m tall, it is sorely suffering from polish and boot rubber stains (also my reasoning for saying that whilst little thor is a nice enough climb, it's not that great). I'd still recommend climbing at bushrangers over it and bumblies top rope there too.
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11-Mar-2011 1:59:46 PM
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On 10/03/2011 prb wrote:
>
>Loboff (and several other routes in the Plaque area) aren't 'worthless',
>they're fun V0- highballs/solos on wonderful rock, best done when the abseilers
>and schoolkids have disappeared. If you tried, you could break your ribs
>on any of the climbs above.
True, but you'd have to try harder. And it'd be more worth the sacrifice of your future health and wellbeing.
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11-Mar-2011 7:23:28 PM
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no rope - no pendulum, easy fix
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11-Mar-2011 8:43:11 PM
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There goes my identity...
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15-Mar-2011 10:38:51 PM
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On 9/03/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>As an aside, I have learnt from this thread to start to wonder about deliberately
>placing myself in some of the situations I have gotten away with!
Hmm.
I have given this a bit more thought, and come to the conclusion that for me doing this is probably the essence of why I prefer adventure climbing.
Conversely, it is probably also the reason (not taking risks), why the bouldering and sport-climbing forms of climbing are so popular these days.
As another aside, when I read about the many accidents on the motorcycle forums that I check from time to time, I think climbing is relatively safe by comparison!
8-P
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16-Mar-2011 9:26:14 AM
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Depends on the person I guess.
I suppose there is a certain level of uncontrollable risk, and then a point where people can be the most safe, full protective equipment, putting in gear every 10cm, not climbing above 1/3 their limit.. you know.. ridiculously so.
And then the safety level decreases/danger level increases as we move away from that and start putting in pro further apart, putting in less pro, climbing to our limit, not protecting ourselves as well (yes, Im talking about helmets) etc
Safety in things like climbing are relative terms me thinks. Motorcycle riding is similiar to a degree, because if the rider is a knob that does 250kph down the freeway dodging traffic, Id wager that he has a higher probability of injury or death. But motorcycles are more dangerous overall I should think because of other road users so that minimum safety level I spoke of earlier is set way lower. In my opinion at least.
Oh also, worth thinking about that there are far more motorcycle riders than climbers in this country so it stands to reason that they would appear overrepresented when comparing accidents. Just another thought.
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16-Mar-2011 9:44:49 AM
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Motorbikes are unsafe because of people in cars. This is something over which you have zero control.
There's not much in climbing you have zero control over.
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16-Mar-2011 9:55:22 AM
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On 15/03/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 9/03/2011 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I have given this a bit more thought, and come to the conclusion that
>for me doing this is probably the essence of why I prefer adventure
>climbing.
>Conversely, it is probably also the reason (not taking risks), why the
>bouldering and sport-climbing forms of climbing are so popular these days.
I won't argue with you about sport-climbing but I disagree about bouldering. Sure, bum-starts with pads and spotters are pretty safe but there's a lot of bouldering out there that gets quite high and/or has bad landings. The major attraction of bouldering is its simplicity : all you really need is a pair of shoes. I find carrying a pad around a real turn-off though, such a hassle going through bush, destroying the simplicity of it.
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16-Mar-2011 10:23:56 AM
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On 16/03/2011 Butters81 wrote:
>Motorbikes are unsafe because of people in cars. This is something over
>which you have zero control.
>There's not much in climbing you have zero control over.
Avalanches, rockfall, etc. ? Control by minimizing exposure, same as a lot of things.
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