Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop
FREIGHT FREE
in Australia

Black Diamond: Camelot X4 - Size 0.2 (Yellow) Strength: 6kN Range: 9.9 to 16.5mm   $75.00
25% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 6 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120
Author
Accident at Arapiles: November 9th
One Day Hero
25/11/2010
1:19:03 PM
On 24/11/2010 gordoste wrote:
>The question is not whether you're more or less risky than someone else,
>it's whether the people around you are OK with your risk-taking, considering
>they could be involved in picking up the pieces.

So Gordo, I'm pretty sure that this is an admission of your unnatural obsession with other people's helmet wearing, and a belief that if anyone wants to climb in your vicinity they need to do things your way.........you wish to be recognised as cragboss.

How about, instead of picking and choosing bits of safety to freak about, we deal with all safety matters in a consistant manner?......with the help of my new safety product!

Introducing the Hero Universal Dangerousness Table (HUDT)

Its rather simple, every climbing action is rated on a scale of dangerousness. You are free to decide your own level of acceptable dangerousness, and are free to object to any action beyond that level which occurs in your presence. If you decide to object to one action at a certain level of dangerousness, you may not condone any action at a higher level of dangerousness without signing a hypocrit registration form.

My HUDT

4 - me leading Skink with a helmet on

8 - me leading Skink without a helmet on

13 - driving to araps from NSW

17 - dropping aerosols in the fire at araps while a little smashed (optional helmet)

24 - newish climber with a good mechanical brain and gr19 max, leading Skink onsight (helmet)

27 - as above, but without helmet

31 - numpty leading a sport route at nowra, falling a lot, fumbled clips and newb belaying (helmet of course)

34 - me climbing the least dangerous long routes in the dolomites (definitely helmet)

40 - the point at which I will politely try to intervene in a dodgy situation

42- The local guys we met at Slider Wall. This dude brought his non-climbing (and crack smoking) mate to belay him on his project.........scariest belaying in history

47 - art brained newish climber who doesn't have the mechanical skills to service a pushbike, leading easy trad routes at araps as their terrible gear falls out...(helmet on but lopsided)

55 - the point at which I will walk away from the crag to avoid having to watch someone splat themselves

67 - anything Lucky Chance does

85 - M9's learn to aid course where beginners are sandbagged up 1st ascent death routes

94 - Macca doing the 2nd ascent of Shai Halud

As you can see, it would be hypocritical of me to climb in the Dolomites at all and still round on people for clip fumbling and suss belays at Nowra.....so I don't do it! If Macca wishes to climb death-choss, thats his choice. I just wouldn't hang around to watch.

Care to draw up your table, gordon?
mikllaw
25/11/2010
1:34:50 PM
HUDT - brilliant!
I'm not going past 4 personally
Now all I need is a HUDT sucker

ambyeok
25/11/2010
1:44:49 PM
HUDT is worthy of its own thread where we can all submit amendments wiki style and ODH can lord it over us editing the list as when and if he feels.

gordoste
25/11/2010
1:59:08 PM
>As you can see, it would be hypocritical of me to climb in the Dolomites at all and still round on people for clip fumbling and suss belays at Nowra.....so I don't do it! If Macca wishes to climb death-choss, thats his choice. I just wouldn't hang around to watch.

Totally agree with you. However if you're belaying on the route next to it you can't leave. If you read my previous post I clearly stated that I don't care what you do, as long as I have the opportunity to bugger off when it makes me jittery.
Wendy
25/11/2010
3:33:01 PM
On 25/11/2010 shiltz wrote:
>On 25/11/2010 Eduardo Slabofvic wrote:
>>Falling off is also a skill unto itself.
>
>A skill that I didn't really practise at all in my first few years leading.
> I'm still a long way from mastering it despite getting a lot more practise
>over the years.
>I have first hand experience of having the rope wrapped around my arm,
>grabbing at and dislodging gear, getting inverted, pendulums and the resulting
>bruises, inactive gri gri belays resulting in sprained ankles, belayer
>as crash pad and many more I'd rather not remember.

In your own way, you're far more experienced at falling than I am ... other than one complete tumble roll down the cliff I took as a 16 year old idiot (no helmet, hadn't even heard about them), all I ever do is relatively lots of rather little falls notable only for the volume of my screaming.

shiltz
25/11/2010
3:37:50 PM
On 25/11/2010 One Day Hero wrote:
>4 - me leading Skink with a helmet on
>
>8 - me leading Skink without a helmet on
>

How about leading Skink with a bunch of newbies rapping down from above? It definitely contributes to the fear factor if nothing else.
One Day Hero
25/11/2010
4:54:04 PM
On 25/11/2010 ambyeok wrote:
>HUDT is worthy of its own thread where we can all submit amendments wiki
>style and ODH can lord it over us editing the list as when and if he feels.

Nope, HUDT is open source. Anyone can feel free to allocate grades or regrade pretty much anything.......

For example, when M9 writes his next trip report on how he convinced an aid newb to equalise an RP stacked with a beak, two blades of grass slung with dental floss and a lost arrow up the date for good luck...........instead of a drawn out critique, you can simply write - 'HUDT 71'

Barefoot Brian's amusing ad asking for partners on a groundup chossfest where "belays may not hold bodyweight" - HUDT 48

Capt_mulch
26/11/2010
2:09:49 PM
Hey, who says you don't look sexy in a helmet? Good thing about it is it makes my nose look bigger too.


Gherkin, Blue Lake, Kosciuszko N.P. (Photo: Mike Law-Smith)

Capt_mulch
26/11/2010
3:28:22 PM
You know what they say, big nose, big feet. Big feet, big climbing shoes (47). You don't need to entice the semi neked island girlies, you need to have strategies for running away from them (I pity that poor seventeen year old bloke in PNG last week that was raped by ten women - the news report say that afterwards he felt f***ed).

ajfclark
26/11/2010
3:47:30 PM
Death by snu snu?
One Day HEro
26/11/2010
4:07:15 PM
Futurama certainly had its moments

ajfclark
26/11/2010
4:09:16 PM
It's just starting back up again.

Miguel75
26/11/2010
4:14:28 PM
On 26/11/2010 ajfclark wrote:
>Death by snu snu?

That's funny! I met an Amazonian with hairy underarms the other day; she was handing out voting flyers.

ajfclark
26/11/2010
4:16:52 PM
Did you ask her about snu snu?

Miguel75
26/11/2010
4:22:28 PM
No, I was scared! She had more hair under her arms than I have on my dome... I'm still amazed by the lush abundance of her pits.


I also realised I haven't replied to your PM. I'll be at the CBD hardrock next Thursday and will look to get some raffle tickets from you.

One Day HEro
26/11/2010
4:39:43 PM
On 25/11/2010 gordoste wrote:
>Totally agree with you. However if you're belaying on the route next to
>it you can't leave. If you read my previous post I clearly stated that
>I don't care what you do, as long as I have the opportunity to bugger off
>when it makes me jittery.

So, I think we've come to the root cause of your butthurt. It's not helmets, its not other climbing parties' lack of consideration.......If you are stuck on belay and another party shows up, sets down, has a snack, ropes up, talks it up, shoes on, psychs up, climbs to the business, shakes out, psychs up, then starts doing dodgy shit........and meanwhile, you are still stuck on belay........the people you belay climb too farking slowly!! So please, if you climb with Gordo, stop wanging around on lead and just climb the fuching rock....its making his butt hurt!

gordoste
26/11/2010
9:29:25 PM
pretty much. and if i may likewise take the piss out of your butthurt - it seems that yours is the fact that other people exist... how dare they!
olbert
28/11/2010
2:15:03 PM
On 24/11/2010 Wendy wrote:
>On 24/11/2010 shiltz wrote:
>>Easy routes are frequently more dangerous that hard routes in my opinion.
>> Most commonly because there are more ledges to hit than on the typically
>>steeper and more sustained hard routes. Also, a much higher proportion
>>of routes in the 25+ range are bolted, particularly at Araps and around
>>the Gramps
>
>Here we go again ... where does this assertion that bolts make climbing
>safer come from??? A bolt flew out of You're Terminated in the wind years
>ago. gfdonc posted about one unclipping itself. They can be in shitty
>places leaving you with bad falls, run outs, desperate clips and how the
>hell do bolts affect helmet wearing anyway?

Its not the assumption that bolts are safer, well..at least not for me. Its about the type of crag that it is and sport crags generally conform to the same type. I wear a helmet not becuase I might flip upsidown and hit my head (that could happen at both sport and trad) but to protect me from falling rocks. In my experience trad crags are generally more likely than sport crags for shit to be raining down.

In my experience sport crags are generally not accessed from the top and you never actually get to the top of the cliff - this greatly reduces the chances of shit falling. Most of the rocks that have landed nearby me have done so because a climber (or somebody) at the top has dislodged it. Anytime there is likely to be climbers above me when Im climbing Im going to wear a helmet.

freesolo
28/11/2010
9:46:54 PM
can we please close this thread???
dalai
29/11/2010
12:26:56 PM
On 28/11/2010 freesolo wrote:
>can we please close this thread???

Good idea. If anyone ends up with more details on the rehabilitation of the injured climber please PM me the details and I will update this topic.

Otherwise the helmet debate can continue in one of the numerous other topics...

 Page 6 of 6. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 100 | 101 to 120
There are 120 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints