BOA (HMS)Keylock Screwgate 25 10 8 kN
Steve's favourite belay screwgate.
Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries
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|worst near accidents I've seen
On 28/09/2010 widewetandslippery wrote:
>I have great faith in vegetation as runners. Thats why as a matter of karma
>I avoid vegetables with the exception of barley and hops. How did your
>mate rip a hold in the gorge? Its solid as?
>Cyclists are around the bend.
We went to Narrabeen slabs the other weekend and I was reminiscing of my climbing partner's first trad fall back in 2004. It was some grotty 17 crack up the "second" slab around the corner from the major overhang. he placed some nuts in the finger-like crack before finding a "little shrub!" sticking out of it around 3m above the last nut. He ran out of ideas on how to do the move so resorted to pulling on the "little shrub" - nature was his friend he claimed. A yelp, a brief loss of tension in the rope followed by a jerk made me realise he'd fallen a way onto the last nut. a little grassy weed fluttering past my head moments later led me to believe that it hadn't been the sturdy shrub he'd imagined at the time of pulling on it. some friend nature was!
When we were young and impecunious, we shared 2 harnesses between 3 of us. I'd just finished a 15m grade 16 with a crux roof just below the finish. I set up top-rope anchor, and lowered my harness down to my brother, and my friend set up to give him a top-rope belay from the ground. I walked around to watch, as I suspected he'd battle on the roof (he was 15 and new to climbing). He did battle, falling off the crux 3 or 4 times before getting totally pumped and asking to be lowered off.
Back on the ground, he asked me to help untie as he was totally pumped. This is when I realised that he hadn't tied into the harness at all, and had been falling on the granny knot I'd used to lower the harness to him...
Would have been tough explaining that to Mom.
Rapping on the descent from Crater Bluff
(btw, on the first ascent in 1936 by Eric Dark and barefoot Dot Butler, they set a fire on the summit to signal their success. This got out of control and they had to scamper along the ridge and wait till till it cooled so barefoot Dot could cross the ashes and decend)
I was in the dark on the top of a big drop and slithered towards the edge and hooked on a hammer, cursing I managed to detatch it and found it was the only thing between me and a long drop
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