|While I was aiding Cream Machine (thin M4, The Gorge) on the weekend I ended up taking a fall and decking out. I was nearing the top, reaching up to place my next piece of pro when the #0 RP I was standing on ripped, and I landed on the ledge 9m below on my back. Below the #0 RP had been a bomber #2 RP, followed by a few nuts, most marginal. Turns out the force from my initial fall (4m?) onto the #2 RP was enough to break the wire (rated to 5.5kn) at the clip loop (see photo below). The marginal pieces below zippered. Even though the wire snapped and gear pulled, the force of my fall was reduced enough that I was able to walk away. I was very lucky.
- Test more - I tested all my pieces before weighting, but obviously not enough
- I could have used screamers
- Use the biggest piece of pro that will fit Ė although the #2 RP placement was good, it could have been substituted for a larger piece (read: higher rating, greater safety margin).
Marginal placements could have been backed up/equalised with other pieces
Donít do aid unless you have a beard...
Hopefully no one else makes the same mistakes!