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Chockstone Forum - Accidents & Injuries

Report Accidents and Injuries

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
Author
Minor accident Mt Buffalo 9th March 2014
kieranl
31/03/2014
2:42:38 PM
On 31/03/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Hey gordoste, ask kieranl what he thinks of those flakes for use as a
>belay!
>Heh, heh, heh.
>
They're perfect for a belay until the day they part company with the cliff. I just wouldn't like to take any bets as to how far away that day is.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31/03/2014
2:59:58 PM
On 23/03/2014 LMo wrote:
>My leader also took a 3-4m fall on the first pitch near the top on part
>of that glassy white streak.
You are allowed to step L / R in negotiating your way upwards, just as the first ascentionists likely did...
Although that strategy won't work too well for you on Mother Of Pearl, down at Eurobin Falls, where bicycling feet is a more appropriate technique.
;-)

>The bolting felt good though (snip)
While you seconded it?

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31/03/2014
3:05:09 PM
On 31/03/2014 pecheur wrote:
>>On 31/03/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>>>On 18/03/2014 gordoste wrote:
>>>>probably closer to 70 or 75 with no handholds
>>>>at all. It's a grade 16 slab.
>>>
>>>Ahahahahahaha............what are you? a gecko?

>I'm with ODH, sure there are plenty of "no hands" type climbs, but not
>at 70-75 degrees at grade 16 ...

You probably think Noblese Oblige is grade 13 too?
:)
pecheur
31/03/2014
3:44:10 PM
On 31/03/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 31/03/2014 pecheur wrote:
>>>On 31/03/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>>>>On 18/03/2014 gordoste wrote:
>>>>>probably closer to 70 or 75 with no handholds
>>>>>at all. It's a grade 16 slab.
>>>>
>>>>Ahahahahahaha............what are you? a gecko?
>
>>I'm with ODH, sure there are plenty of "no hands" type climbs, but not
>>at 70-75 degrees at grade 16 ...
>
>You probably think Noblese Oblige is grade 13 too?
>:)

Hehe nah I think Noblesse struggles to be a 10 ...

However Profanities is grade 16 (or is it 17?), and I'd say that's less than 60 degrees with minimal handholds at the start ... 70-75 degrees is quite extreme for no hands ...
One Day Hero
31/03/2014
4:04:45 PM
The "holdless" slabs around canberra in the mid teens are about 40-45 degrees. Stuff like Integral Crack is 70 degrees, has heaps of holds, and is still gr20! Most of the hard slabs at Booroomba (and Buffalo, I reckon) involve cranking and edging on nubbins and flakes rather than pasting and palming blankness.

Interestingly, the granite in Squamish is both smoother and more frictional than Booroomba and Buffalo. I climbed a bunch of properly blank 5.10 slabs there (18-20ish) which were substantially steeper than anything I've done in Oz, and were maybe 50 degrees. The 5.11s looked about 2 degrees steeper, and the hardest slabs around (26ish) were another degree steeper again. Proper smearing slabs go from scrambling to easy climbing to hard climbing to physically impossible all within about 15 or 20 degrees, and the increase in difficulty isn't linear.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
There are 25 messages in this topic.

 

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