17 Down Under:
17 DOWN UNDER. "A celebration of moderate grade climbing in Victoria". 184 pages. 285 images. Father & son team, Steve & John Morris, embark on a journey to climb and photograph 50 of the best rock climbs in Victoria, grade 17 & under. Inc bookmark $50.00
When I saw the line of the climb as the pic at start, I did not immediately recognise CJ, however the line itself reminded me of Great Shark Hunt at Mt Buffalo, due the upward right curving nature of the slopey crack involved.
When I watched it and realised it was CJ, I thought to myself Gd 29 and similar to GSH, he should get this no worries ~> and he did ~> orright!
So, does this make a free ascent of Australia's hardest trad crack line (I did not hear the final outcome of his attempts on that), but also perhaps Australia's 2nd hardest trad crack climb as a new route, in CJ's bag?
I think the line of bolts is another route? Late in the clip you can see a few more heading straight up from that one.
Is one of the shots horizontally flipped? The line starts heading left to right with the belayer in the bottom left, then at 1:12 the line is right to left with the belayer in bottom right until 1:30 when it when it flips and the rope and everything is back the other way? The hangers on the bolts at 1:14 are suddenly backwards too. Why was this done?
Holy Moly! Just sent the best route of my life. At the Star Factory. Its all gear. All placed on lead on the redpoint. None of the bolts of any of the routes on this cliff were clipped for the ascent. I strongly suggest not clipping them for future ascents, although it would be a great climb to go up Hubris into the finish of Simply the Best. Many options with link ups on this cliff. The Star Factory is still cranking out some amazing routes!!!
***** Hubris 30m 29
Start up the offwidth roof L of Simply the Best. Up the line to the higher of the two traversing cracks via some committing moves. Traverse R climbing past STB. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the, dare I say it, DIABOLICAL crux sequence. Continue up the line. The climb finishes when you are standing on top of the cliff. You need a 5 friend and 4 camalot for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.
John Fischer, April 03 2014
The falling shot was flipped. 180 degrees. This is simply to put the cliff at the top of the frame rather than the bottom. I think it gives a better perspective of the fall and makes it look as if the climber is not just climbing on the ground.
I agree however that it does affect the continuity of the climb.
I have had criticisms in the past of actually not flipping footage and leaving it looking like the climber is on the ground. Can't please everyone i guess.
Looks like a good line. I reckon you should either chop those bolts or accept that they're part of the route. Suggesting that people climb past bolts at their face without clipping them "for the proper tick" is pretty contrived, don't you think?
On 14/04/2014 One Day Hero wrote:
>Looks like a good line. I reckon you should either chop those bolts or
>accept that they're part of the route. Suggesting that people climb past
>bolts at their face without clipping them "for the proper tick" is pretty
>contrived, don't you think?
In this particular case, that is an interesting question, ... as the bolted routes (I presume), were there first.
Yeah about the bolts. I agree its a bit weird to not clip fixed gear on a route. There are three more cracks left to climb on that section of cliff (grades 28-30) and all of them are effected by existing bolts. Some of the bolts will definately be removed. Once the cracks are all climbed we will consider the bolts again. Its not my decision.
The gear ripped because I just screwed up! I was pumped and chucked in a bad cam. There is obvious to place bomber gear that I used on the red point. The route has so much gear it really does not matter if you mess up a few pieces. The bolts around the crack are unnecessary.
We may clean up that video and put it up on youtube in the near future, but more than likely we will just re-shoot better footage.
Hey thanks again for the belay on Shark Hunt M9! I hope to see you back at Buffalo next season.
You need to reshoot this video CJ, because at the moment it ain't cutting the mustard. The only thing I really saw you sending was an espresso coffee. To highlight it as Tassie's hardest trad route and yet have bolts with quickdraws dominating in every 2nd shot is just weird. The climbing in the video doesn't look any harder than most grade 18s at Araps and then you take some minor fall where the picture has been flipped for some strange reason. Maybe I need to give you some tips on how to make a climbing film.
I agree with Simey on the vid quality, tho wasnt brutal enough to tear it to shreds, as its good to see any oz climbing filmed as theres so little of it.
interesting news in hotown is theres another new hardest trad route, pleasant screams direct on trad at grade 30, it also eliminates bolts and is more of a headpoint like cj's.