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Grit Ground Up


davidn

30-Apr-2012
7:40:26 AM

Dalai: I get the sense you think I'm disrespecting the routes talking about them in V grade terms, because it ignores the history, aura, awe, mental side etc.

But... all climbs have mental and technical difficulty associated with them (in some cases the one is very high and the other comparatively low). Talking about technical difficulty doesn't necessarily negate or ignore the mental aspect. Anyone who's watched Hard Grit realises how difficult the mental side can be! As do I. If you're talking about how physically difficult the moves are, what better grading system than V grades (or font) - because it's a grading system that focuses on technical difficulty. In this case, thanks to Dave J I have a much better idea of what Mr Caminati achieved - sending spoogy dangerous highball V3+s (over bad landings) ground up.

As an aside, I note that even Adam Ondra can fall off a Font grade 5!

Macca: I'm glad you got to mention Shai Hulud ;) Yes, we should all imbibe more cement and climb harder on sketchier things, myself included. I try to tackle all my climbs ground up; I've never top-roped a sketchy boulder problem (not to say I wouldn't). I'll let you know when I break the next ankle or leg (by PM - I understand public discussion of injuries is frowned on here and may indicate the discussant is not 'ard enough ;)

anthonycuskelly

30-Apr-2012
9:29:10 AM

On 30/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
>Dalai: I get the sense you think I'm disrespecting the routes talking about
>them in V grade terms, because it ignores the history, aura, awe, mental
>side etc.
>
>But... all climbs have mental and technical difficulty associated with
>them (in some cases the one is very high and the other comparatively low).
> Talking about technical difficulty doesn't necessarily negate or ignore
>the mental aspect. Anyone who's watched Hard Grit realises how difficult
>the mental side can be! As do I. If you're talking about how physically
>difficult the moves are, what better grading system than V grades (or font)
>- because it's a grading system that focuses on technical difficulty.
>In this case, thanks to Dave J I have a much better idea of what Mr Caminati
>achieved - sending spoogy dangerous highball V3+s (over bad landings) ground
>up.
>
>As an aside, I note that even Adam Ondra can fall off a Font grade 5!
>
>Macca: I'm glad you got to mention Shai Hulud ;) Yes, we should all imbibe
>more cement and climb harder on sketchier things, myself included. I try
>to tackle all my climbs ground up; I've never top-roped a sketchy boulder
>problem (not to say I wouldn't). I'll let you know when I break the next
>ankle or leg (by PM - I understand public discussion of injuries is frowned
>on here and may indicate the discussant is not 'ard enough ;)

There's a reason I stuck to easy cracklines in the Peaks...

One Day Hero

30-Apr-2012
10:53:54 AM

On 30/04/2012 Davidn wrote:

>In this case, thanks to Dave J I have a much better idea of what Mr Caminati
>achieved - sending spoogy dangerous highball V3+s (over bad landings) ground
>up.
>
Truly dave, your self delusion knows no bounds. What framework are you using to try to understand these things? Are you now thinking of grit routes like the insecure 6a's you've done at Font? Or maybe V4's in the Gramps? Or.....since we're talking about insecure climbing, perhaps all the slithery problems at Bungonia, or even Castle Hill would be relevant to understanding what's involved.........I've even had a British mate tell me that the roundy black sloper routes at Thomson's Point are kind of a rough guide to the style of climbing.

But you haven't climbed at most of those places, have you dave? Have you ever climbed overseas? Outside NSW/ACT? Are you, in fact, attempting to gain an understanding of sketchy grit routes with only canberra granite bouldering and your woody as reference points? Can you see why people might be having trouble respecting you?

Also....can you really watch that vid of the dude on Master's Edge and believe that V3+ is descriptive of what's going on?

One Day Hero

30-Apr-2012
11:07:56 AM

On 29/04/2012 hagges wrote:

>Grit ethics allow minimal use of pads.

I know that all climbing is contrived, but that seems extra silly. There's an elegant simplicity to 20m high routes; feel free to stack as many pads as you like, we'll give you the tick anyway :)


davidn

30-Apr-2012
11:18:19 AM

Damo, you have two fundamental problems that rear up fairly often, particularly when I'm around:

1. You think everyone you disagree with is stupid. You then tend to disagree with anyone who you think is stupid.
2. You're fundamentally a climbing bigot (and bigot in general, in the sense of being averse to people who are different from you). As far as you're concerned, it's not climbing unless it's done your way.

If you keep those in mind it's pretty much impossible to find you annoying because at the end of the day, it's your angry button/nerdrage button that's getting pushed, not mine. I have fun and climb what I like; you get rage about what I do or don't climb. Have fun, and let me know when you feel you've gotten your point fully across and really made a difference ;)

Duncan

30-Apr-2012
11:46:54 AM

On 29/04/2012 dalai wrote:
>@Davidn - you really do have an unhealthy obsession with numbers and don't
>seem to be able to comprehend anything beyond that...

It reminds me of an American kid I met who insisted on trying to rate boulder problems in YDS. He'd be all: "So is that problem like a 5.10d into 5.13b?" I'd say "I'm Australian, he's Spanish and he's Japanese. We don't use YDS and it's a boulder anyway." And he'd say "So maybe more like 5.11a into 5.13d?"

So, in conclusion, shut up Davidn.

Hagges

30-Apr-2012
12:28:22 PM

On 30/04/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 29/04/2012 hagges wrote:
>
>>Grit ethics allow minimal use of pads.
>
>I know that all climbing is contrived, but that seems extra silly. There's
>an elegant simplicity to 20m high routes; feel free to stack as many pads
>as you like, we'll give you the tick anyway :)

Ha!! I'm sure you would.

I was seeing red after Davidn's comments. I wasn't thinking clearly when I wrote that.

It's still interesting as it is believed stacking the pads will reduce the E grade as it makes the landings a little safer. And so you wouldn't get the full tick just half a tick. However, if you were to solo an E7 with no pads onsight you may claim at least E8 maybe E10.

I remember, on Flying Buttress Direct HVS, kicking all my gear out on the crux roof with no way to down climb. Facing a fall onto a very steep slab which has already claimed one person and popped an eye out of another. I could only place some blind gear and haul myself over the roof. I then went a little of route and missed all the good holds only to find horrible, sweat producing, slopers. God knows how I did it but thankfully I did. I don't know what grade I could've claimed, in theory, but I'd say at least E1 maybe E3.

All I know is it was a bloody good character building experience to go through but I sure as well wouldn't like to go through it again.

Arnez

30-Apr-2012
12:48:50 PM

I think a lot of people are missing the point of what the grit is all about. The local ethic is about ground up or onsight ascents. Traditionally, many of these dangerous routes have been toproped first, but now a new generation of climbers, who are more prepared and talented are climbing these in a pure style. It is not about the grade or the height, it is about having the skill or determination to climb technical and insecure routes in a dangerous position. Those who demean their ascents as simply easy moves for talented climbers need to remember those sentiments next time their foot skates from a footer on an 'easy' route/problem and think of what the consequences would have been forty foot off the deck, no gear and a horrific landing.

One Day Hero

30-Apr-2012
1:02:14 PM

On 30/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
>Damo, you have two fundamental problems that rear up fairly often, particularly
>when I'm around:
>
>1. You think everyone you disagree with is stupid. You then tend to disagree
>with anyone who you think is stupid.
>2. You're fundamentally a climbing bigot (and bigot in general, in the
>sense of being averse to people who are different from you). As far as
>you're concerned, it's not climbing unless it's done your way.
>
>If you keep those in mind it's pretty much impossible to find you annoying
>because at the end of the day, it's your angry button/nerdrage button that's
>getting pushed, not mine. I have fun and climb what I like; you get rage
>about what I do or don't climb. Have fun, and let me know when you feel
>you've gotten your point fully across and really made a difference ;)

Trust me dave, when you're around I have more than two fundamental problems.
>
>1. You think everyone you disagree with is stupid. You then tend to disagree
>with anyone who you think is stupid.

I don't bother contributing "Lol" or, "yes, I agree completely". Never really seen the point of padding web discussions out with sycophantic arse licking. There are lots of people on chocky who are extremely clever, witty, clear thinking, and with whom I agree......they're the ones I don't reply to.

>2. You're fundamentally a climbing bigot (and bigot in general, in the
>sense of being averse to people who are different from you). As far as
>you're concerned, it's not climbing unless it's done your way.

Nah, I just don't buy into all the turd polishing which is rife in climbing
>
>I have fun and climb what I like; you get rage
>about what I do or don't climb.

I'm not angry dave, I enjoy heaping shit on you. You climb the only thing you can climb; canberra granite boulders. If it makes it seem better when you tell yourself that thats all you really want to do, keep it up.

Estey

30-Apr-2012
1:11:22 PM

One Day Hero

30-Apr-2012
2:02:58 PM

On 30/04/2012 hagges wrote:
>
>I remember, on Flying Buttress Direct HVS, kicking all my gear out on
>the crux roof with no way to down climb. Facing a fall onto a very steep
>slab which has already claimed one person and popped an eye out of another.
>I could only place some blind gear and haul myself over the roof. I then
>went a little of route and missed all the good holds only to find horrible,
>sweat producing, slopers. God knows how I did it but thankfully I did.
>I don't know what grade I could've claimed, in theory, but I'd say at least
>E1 maybe E3.
>
Wow, I think I've just seen the light with E grades. Are you saying that you get to change the grade of the route depending on how badly you botch the climbing? That is genius!

All those times when I felt bad about myself for trying a 17, then; kooking the gear, misreading the sequence, stumbling off route, getting all scared and shaky........it wasn't that I'm a shit climber, the route was 24 that day!

Hagges

30-Apr-2012
3:22:37 PM

Now you're getting it :) Also don't forget how hungover you are


Miguel75

30-Apr-2012
3:29:43 PM

On 30/04/2012 hagges wrote:
>....Also don't forget how hungover you are

Crap, that rules me out;) at least I have other excuses available...

Fish Boy

1-May-2012
8:28:28 AM

Fark davidn, FARK!


ChuckNorris

1-May-2012
10:40:13 PM

On 30/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
>I have fun and climb what I like; you get rage
>about what I do or don't climb. Have fun, and let me know when you feel
>you've gotten your point fully across and really made a difference ;)

But was it F7 or F3 fun (with a pad).

Do you grade fun from the moment of mostest funnest?... Or do you grade fun from the moment you log how much fun you have had on facebook? Or do you think sometimes fun is much more funnier if you have fun for a long period of time?

I have so much fun it is funny
Da fun Bomb


IdratherbeclimbingM9

1-May-2012
10:52:41 PM

On 1/05/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>Do you grade fun from the moment of mostest funnest?... Or do you grade
>fun from the moment you log how much fun you have had on facebook? Or do
>you think sometimes fun is much more funnier if you have fun for a long
>period of time?
>
>I have so much fun it is funny
>Da fun Bomb

I want to know if you can extend the life of your fun by even one overfun knot, if keeping a meticulous log of it and regular funspections before having to retire it!
☻


ChuckNorris

1-May-2012
10:55:06 PM

On 1/05/2012 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>I want to know if you can extend the life of your fun by even one overfun
>knot, if keeping a meticulous log of it and regular funspections before
>having to retire it!
>☻

Nope

maxdacat

2-May-2012
10:50:20 AM

On 29/04/2012 dalai wrote:

>You really need to go to the UK, stand under these routes and soak in
>the history

and the inclement weather :p

maxdacat

2-May-2012
11:01:02 AM

On 30/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
I understand public discussion of injuries is frowned on here and may indicate the discussant is not 'ard enough ;)

what an odd thing to say??


Miguel75

2-May-2012
11:18:42 AM

On 2/05/2012 maxdacat wrote:
>On 30/04/2012 Davidn wrote:
> I understand public discussion of injuries is frowned on here and may
>indicate the discussant is not 'ard enough ;)
>
>what an odd thing to say??

I believe it's in reference to when Davidn busted his ankle bouldering, crawled to his car, posted the experience on Chocky and was then lambasted for not being hard enough?!?

There are 61 messages in this topic.