Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

DMM: Viper Size L (2013 model as shown) Padded Adjustable Harness, 5 Gear Loops Fits: Waist 87-104cm Legs: 55-70cm   $89.00
26% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
Author
DogFace December Decathalon

SteveC
14/12/2009
4:19:43 PM
Here are a couple more shots, http://picasaweb.google.com/peregrinite/CaraDelPerro#5414952087626802850
Not much action, just a couple of wide shots of you guys cleaning the 1st pitch. I rapped down 40 metres
or so until I was dangling just out of reach of the cliff. After twirling around a few times I got scared, just
as Macca launched over the precipice wide eyed and bushy tailed.
I jugged out and went sport climbing, and I was happy to.

J.C.
19/12/2009
12:51:16 AM
cheers freddo, will try tricams next time (might wait a while though, dog face is not an every weekend thing for softys like me)
big hats off to neil for all but dragging me up that thing! ill have to polish up my choss aiding skills and make it up to you on big glassy when you get back from nz :)

nmonteith
19/12/2009
7:49:47 AM
How are tricams when you hammer them in? :-) I think some of my cams and wires made more damage then the pins I placed. Thanks for the patience Josh, especially on pitch 3 where i was sitting directly above you whimpering for what must have been an hour surely...
hughsut
19/12/2009
8:41:36 AM
- it was probably
>the last time
>there were five people on the dog at the same time too!
>

I was baffled to rap down the dog for coffee with macca and find a party finishing the 2nd pitch of gigantor, heaps of army dudes rapping past every few minutes, another party starting gigantor and someone working the free moves on colossus' traverse (pitch3). It wasn't even a weekend; Dogface must be in vogue.

macciza
20/12/2009
10:29:24 AM
So all that did actually happen . . I wasn't going to mention anything for fear you would think I was
having some sort of massive hallucination -
I thought the gym climbers looking for the auto-belays was the most bizarre bit though, but I guess they
saw it in the Vogue article . . .
another dave
20/12/2009
4:06:10 PM
Hey Macciza. Hope that reference to gym climbers wasn't about the party on pitch 1 of Gigantor. We were just a tinsy winsy bit petrified while trying to cross the first shale band. Thanks for the Beta by the way.
Though we did finish the first pitch (then retreated and did the walk of shame) I think we shall skulk off to piddo and aid shorter routes that are less likely to take us 20 hrs to complete.
We did do good though. We found a phone at the bottom of the cliff and carried out to its rightful owner.

timfreddo
21/12/2009
6:30:53 PM
On 20/12/2009 another dave wrote:

>We did do good though. We found a phone at the bottom of the cliff and
>carried out to its rightful owner.

Cheers for that fellas :)

another option for you is to aid echo crack...
have to climb the first 2 pitches free (14 and 19). Then the rest is non stop crack... crux for aid would prob be the first 5 meters and last 5 meters... other than that, its all #3 camalots.
Grab as many as you can and give that a bash, the bomber gear will help get the system sorted.

Good aid routes at narrow neck are echo Jr (1 pitch bolt ladder), and Katchendangle 2 or 3 pitches, maybe some gr 16 free on the top pitch.

Have fun :)
Timbo.
Mish Mash
21/12/2009
8:22:26 PM
On 21/12/2009 timfreddo wrote:
>another option for you is to aid echo crack...
>have to climb the first 2 pitches free (14 and 19). Then the rest is non
>stop crack... crux for aid would prob be the first 5 meters and last 5
>meters... other than that, its all #3 camalots.
>Grab as many as you can and give that a bash, the bomber gear will help
>get the system sorted.
>
>Good aid routes at narrow neck are echo Jr (1 pitch bolt ladder), and
>Katchendangle 2 or 3 pitches, maybe some gr 16 free on the top pitch.
>
>Have fun :)
>Timbo.
>

Thanks for that Timbo (I was one of the other guys fighting about on gigantor, I think my effort to aid
every move on the first pitch was a considerable larger amount of effort than if I had the guts to crack
a few free moves, hurrah for blind placed black tricams)

Getting into the aid is hard as all the attractive lines I want to free. I had already had a shot at freeing
echo crack which was fine except for the the getting into the crack part on pitch 3 which required a
little of the french style climbing. I find I want to be on steep and hard lines that i could never dream of
freeing for aid but then I find my aiding speed is just not up to it! Practise practise I guess, I think your
suggestion of running laps at piddo might be the order of the day.

timfreddo
22/12/2009
3:53:22 PM
On 21/12/2009 Mish Mash wrote:
>>

>I think my effort to aid
>every move on the first pitch was a considerable larger amount of effort
>than if I had the guts to crack
>a few free moves, hurrah for blind placed black tricams)

I found i HAD to free only 1 move on that first pitch, just above the fixed bong with the rusted shut biner, through some MAXIMAL SHIT shale band rock....

Apparently Samarkand at Pierces Pass is an ok aid option.... think i head the aid crux is off the ground, and then its straight forward except for some last pitch (before walk in ledge) slab freeing at 19.....
Any one know better....?

I also heard giant is an easier aid than gigantor, with only 1 pitch of dogface rock, before becoming quite solid. Last pitch also free at 18 (spaced pro).

At least aiding splitters at piddo has some advantages...
Good rock, easy access, and if you need to free some stuff it wont be so intimidating!

Write us up a trip report if you can be arsed....
Timbo
mikl law
22/12/2009
5:40:32 PM
Smarkand is good, long, and very solid rock
P1 has a hard little slab then cracks, the origional P2 was knifeblading through a roof, the free variant is 3m left past bolts, then a long crack, P3 and 4 are ok, P5 is a very vertical wall with maybe a skyhook move at the top. I'd take all trad gear and maybe skyhooka nd few blades (and boltplates).
Rap in via Critical Mass, the "Samarkand raps" are teriffying
best cheat is to walk in and fix ropes down it so you can bail if necessary, rather than walking out (25 minutes to the Pierces pass track, then 25 minutes to the top). You can leave lunch and water on ledges

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 50
There are 50 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints