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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

Poll Option Votes Graph
Yes - and I like listening to old people talk 13
65% 
Yes - and I like listening to young people cry 5
25% 
Yes - but I struggle to form cohesive opinions. 1
5% 
No - there is no option 'no', try a different poll 1
5% 

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 46
Author
Buffalo Aid Weekend Nov 22-23 2014

JMK
25/10/2014
9:03:06 AM
If you have never belayed someone on hard aid then you don't know how exciting that is. The only thing that can control the intensity of the experience is something like. Gri gri

IdratherbeclimbingM9
25/10/2014
6:51:26 PM
On 25/10/2014 JMK wrote:
>If you have never belayed someone on hard aid then you don't know how exciting
>that is. The only thing that can control the intensity of the experience
>is something like. Gri gri

,,, or almost anything/nothing if it is a protectionless FF2 situation where you are likely to wear the falling leader....
~> If you want further clarification then just ask Ben_E about his belay experience on the last BuffAidFest.

If circumstances permit my attempt at an M8/M9 maybe even M10 (I don't know, as it is 'kind of' a ground up ascent that looks like multiple hook moves with no protection, and only 'thin' pro below that...), on the upcoming weekend, then whoever belays me on it will likely find it exciting...
;-)
kieranl
26/10/2014
1:22:38 PM
On 24/10/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 23/10/2014 kieranl wrote:
>>I've just retired my 28 year-old jumars. It occurred to me that the safety-catches
>>on them are hard plastic and I thought about what other things I depend
>>on to keep me alive that are plastic and over 20 years old. I couldn't
>>think of anything else and decided that I don't want to die if a little
>>piece of plastic suddenly gives up the ghost after nearly 30 years.
>>I got new Petzls - didn't like the way the BDs handled.
>
>Fair dinkum?
>My jumars are way older than that (40+ yrs) and still going strong...
>
So are mine but I'm retiring them while I'm ahead.
The catches don't appear to be brittle but it's old plastic so it's a risk. There probably won't be any warning before failure. The risk is probably controllable on dynamic ropes by keeping tied in short. But I do most of my jugging while preparing routes on my static rope so the prospect of even a short fall if the jumars pop off the rope isn't good.
So I'm OK to give TimP my old jugs (have PMd) given that he'll be using them for following aid.
TimP
26/10/2014
4:58:57 PM
Thanks Kieranl. I'm checking out aid climbing so if I get into it will get some new gear, I'm sure I'll only be following for now, and definitely tying in short. Will PM you. Cheers Tim.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
27/10/2014
10:37:09 PM
On 26/10/2014 kieranl wrote:
>Snip The catches don't appear to be brittle but it's old plastic so it's a
>risk. There probably won't be any warning before failure. The risk is probably
>controllable on dynamic ropes by keeping tied in short. But I do most of
>my jugging while preparing routes on my static rope so the prospect of
>even a short fall if the jumars pop off the rope isn't good. snip

It sounds like you don't use backup safety tethers attaching them independently to your harness?
I think it an unlikely scenario that both jumars would "pop off" at the same time, unless ascending a 'traversing' rope and twisting them badly and simultaneously, however I respect your decision.
By the way, I often jumar using a technique that utilises three, so I can alternate between leapfrog and ropewalk methods as required, making it more unlikely to 'pop off' x 3.


kieranl
28/10/2014
9:14:22 AM
On 27/10/2014 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>It sounds like you don't use backup safety tethers attaching them independently
>to your harness?
Of course I tether each jug to my harness. Not sure why you got the impression that I don't.

>I think it an unlikely scenario that both jumars would "pop off"
>at the same time, unless ascending a 'traversing' rope and twisting them
>badly and simultaneously, however I respect your decision.
Yes it's very unlikely but weird things happen.
The major reason is that I've realised that my old jugs have a potential problem with a critical safety component. That potential is unlikely to be realised but there's an easy fix (apart from stopping jumaring) - spend a bit of money on a new set. Given that my life hangs on them it was an easy decision.

 Page 3 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 46
There are 46 messages in this topic.

 

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