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Chockstone Forum - Find Climbers

Find Climbers In Your Area

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 39
Author
Hard Rock Climbing -- Need Partner
Wendy
24/03/2013
4:51:40 PM
I've never found 25s on rock to be "comfortable" and that's after 20+ years of climbing 3-4 days a week on rock! I don't think it's from a lack of obsessive tendencies either.

davidn
24/03/2013
5:02:23 PM
On 24/03/2013 Wendy wrote:
>I've never found 25s on rock to be "comfortable" and that's after 20+ years
>of climbing 3-4 days a week on rock! I don't think it's from a lack of
>obsessive tendencies either.

Maybe if you bouldered more...! Anyone who wants to climb The Ogive should be bouldering V7 according to the extremely outdated and highly dubious 'boulder to route grade conversion' !

Miguel75
24/03/2013
5:16:43 PM
On 24/03/2013 roca wrote:
>I am cross training.... and i think it's partly mind-set. If you believe
>you can, and you climb just for YOU... SNIP

That's the important part, climb for you and enjoy yourself.

Good luck with the marathon training too. I'm working towards one myself and it hurts...
Wendy
24/03/2013
6:56:43 PM
On 24/03/2013 ratherbeclimbinv9 wrote:
>On 24/03/2013 Wendy wrote:
>>I've never found 25s on rock to be "comfortable" and that's after 20+
>years
>>of climbing 3-4 days a week on rock! I don't think it's from a lack of
>>obsessive tendencies either.
>
>Maybe if you bouldered more...! Anyone who wants to climb The Ogive should
>be bouldering V7 according to the extremely outdated and highly dubious
>'boulder to route grade conversion' !

Sorry, i'll just pull myself off the floor now ... V7!!!! I'm impressed if I get up V4! On an equally silly note of comparison, uncomfortable though 25 on rock might be, at least I can climb them, whereas I suspect if you put me on a gym 25 (or the hypothetical fully recovered from surgery me anyway) I'd be unlikely to even get up it.
One Day Hero
25/03/2013
12:41:01 PM
On 23/03/2013 roca wrote:
>......and since i've been training in various sports for about 8
>years, I understand the body is not always operating to the same level
>as the mind.

You mean that reality doesn't always align with your imagined best case scenario? How surprising.

>I'm not a newbie BTW, just haven't been outdoors in a long time, and yeh,
>so i'm a little nervous about it now.

This is a problem. In order to climb well outdoors you will need to not be nervous about it. In order to not be nervous about it, you will have to expose yourself to climbing outdoors repeatedly until your brain accepts it as normal. How many zumba sessions do you think you'd need to do in order to adequately prepare for a marathon? Sound silly? That's roughly how dumb it is to think that you can sort out your head in a climbing gym.

>Also currently do not have a car,
>so travelling to random spots with gear via PT is not high on my list.

Most potential climbing partners will have a car, find a partner and you'll kill two birds with one stone. Stop scaring potential climbing partners away with the Tony Robbins "power of positive thinking" bullshit.

>
>Let me set a PB
>in running this year in Oct and then yeh, outdoors climbing and me will
>become reacquainted.

Since I'm on a roll here..........what if you cop a big headwind? What if you get a tummy bug two days before the event? Torn hammie a month out? There are so many factors beyond your control which can derail of your carefully crafted plan in the blink of an eye. Getting overly emotionally attached to the idea of running some arbitrary time in a particular race, on a particular day, 6 months down the track.......and then putting in hundreds of hours of training for it, is kinda setting yourself up for a high likelihood of major disappointment, don't you think?
simey
25/03/2013
1:08:22 PM
On 24/03/2013 ratherbeclimbinv9 wrote:
>On 24/03/2013 Wendy wrote:
>>I've never found 25s on rock to be "comfortable" and that's after 20+ years of climbing 3-4 days a week on rock! I don't think it's from a lack of obsessive tendencies either.

Wendy, I don't think everyone should be measuring themselves against your physical abilities. There are a lot of people out there capable of being comfortable at climbing grade 25 on rock in a short space of time particularly in sport climbing situations. There are stacks of people blessed with better genetics and natural ability than you!

>Maybe if you bouldered more...! Anyone who wants to climb The Ogive should be bouldering V7 according to the extremely outdated and highly dubious 'boulder to route grade conversion' !

As dubious as the boulder to route grade conversion might be, that table implies that climbing grade 28 (The Ogive) could be compared in difficulty to bouldering V6 to V8. I think if Wendy spent anywhere near as much time bouldering as she did climbing routes and if she spent as much time and effort trying to find a V6 that suited her as she did a grade 28 (which she is yet to climb) then I'm guessing she would probably be in luck.

Maybe the conversion chart isn't so out of whack.


grantoss
25/03/2013
1:41:18 PM
On 25/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>On 23/03/2013 roca wrote:
>>......and since i've been training in various sports for about 8
>>years, I understand the body is not always operating to the same level
>>as the mind.
>
>You mean that reality doesn't always align with your imagined best case
>scenario? How surprising.
>
>>I'm not a newbie BTW, just haven't been outdoors in a long time, and
>yeh,
>>so i'm a little nervous about it now.
>
>This is a problem. In order to climb well outdoors you will need to not
>be nervous about it. In order to not be nervous about it, you will have
>to expose yourself to climbing outdoors repeatedly until your brain accepts
>it as normal. How many zumba sessions do you think you'd need to do in
>order to adequately prepare for a marathon? Sound silly? That's roughly
>how dumb it is to think that you can sort out your head in a climbing gym.
>
>
>>Also currently do not have a car,
>>so travelling to random spots with gear via PT is not high on my list.
>
>Most potential climbing partners will have a car, find a partner and you'll
>kill two birds with one stone. Stop scaring potential climbing partners
>away with the Tony Robbins "power of positive thinking" bullshit.
>
>>
>>Let me set a PB
>>in running this year in Oct and then yeh, outdoors climbing and me will
>>become reacquainted.
>
>Since I'm on a roll here..........what if you cop a big headwind? What
>if you get a tummy bug two days before the event? Torn hammie a month out?
>There are so many factors beyond your control which can derail of your
>carefully crafted plan in the blink of an eye. Getting overly emotionally
>attached to the idea of running some arbitrary time in a particular race,
>on a particular day, 6 months down the track.......and then putting in
>hundreds of hours of training for it, is kinda setting yourself up for
>a high likelihood of major disappointment, don't you think?


Sounds like you're feeling a little bitter Damo - are you taking your exploded knee frustration out on the internet?
simey
25/03/2013
2:12:19 PM
On 25/03/2013 grantoss wrote:
>Sounds like you're feeling a little bitter Damo - are you taking your exploded knee frustration out on the internet?

I don't think ODH sounds bitter. I reckon he is on the money.

One Day Hero
25/03/2013
4:42:35 PM
On 25/03/2013 grantoss wrote:
>Sounds like you're feeling a little bitter Damo - are you taking your
>exploded knee frustration out on the internet?

Maybe......doesn't mean that I'm wrong though :)

grantoss
26/03/2013
11:05:31 AM
On 25/03/2013 simey wrote:
>On 25/03/2013 grantoss wrote:
>>Sounds like you're feeling a little bitter Damo - are you taking your
>exploded knee frustration out on the internet?
>
>I don't think ODH sounds bitter. I reckon he is on the money.
>
>
in some cases its possible to be bitter and on the money!

plumb-bob
26/03/2013
11:17:39 AM
Man there are some real jerks in this forum sometimes.

I agree that OP should not necessarily rule out climbing outdoors, and that her rather clinical and structured approach to climbing indoors only may not be the best way to develop her all-round climbing skills. However, I do understand that different people have different ways of going about things and some people like to set very rigid plans and goals to help them progress, and that's obviously OPs preferred method.

Just because you don't agree with her method (or madness) doesn't mean you should get on here and rip her a new one. A couple of gentle suggestions are fair enough, but some of the language and tone in this thread is just stupid.

People climb for different reasons, with different goals and that is what makes this sport so great.

Some people are in it for fun, some are in it to push themselves. Some like structure and challenging goals, some hate that stuff and just want to climb and let the progression happen naturally (or not at all). I would argue that most climbers (like myself) are people that are not attracted to organised team sports because they don't like having to turn up to training on time if they're not in the mood, or the pressure of always competing against others. They prefer the freedom that climbing allows - to take things at your own pace, to compete against yourself (mentally and physically), and to climbing when and where you want to.

I think some of the less structured climbers get pi$$ed at people trying to plan and structure things, but mostly that's because they don't apply that sort of structure to their sports and don't see it working with climbing. The truth is, structure and goals can be very beneficial for some people. So let them go for it. They may not reach their goals, but just having high goals can push you further than you would have got without them.

Sure, provide a few tips here and there on how to best plan their climbing progression, but there is no need to berate them. Unless of course it makes you feel like a big man (ODH), then go right ahead. Improve your self-esteem at the expense of others.

OP, I'd suggest not limiting yourself to just gym climbing over the next 6 months. Not just for the progression of your skills/confidence on rock, but for the enjoyment that you get from climbing outdoors. I'd also suggest that you get your lead ticket as early as possible (provided you find a partner) to help you develop your lead skills.

Good luck, and ignore the trolls!

Haters gonna hate.
Will_P
26/03/2013
2:11:37 PM
On 25/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>Since I'm on a roll here..........what if you cop a big headwind? What
>if you get a tummy bug two days before the event? Torn hammie a month out?
>There are so many factors beyond your control which can derail of your
>carefully crafted plan in the blink of an eye. Getting overly emotionally
>attached to the idea of running some arbitrary time in a particular race,
>on a particular day, 6 months down the track.......and then putting in
>hundreds of hours of training for it, is kinda setting yourself up for
>a high likelihood of major disappointment, don't you think?

I usually agree with a lot of what you say, ODH, and oftentimes with the way you say it too. But seriously, right here it sounds like you're saying there's no point setting goals, and certainly no point working hard to reach them, because so much could (could) happen to derail that plan. So why bother. You don't honestly think that, do you?

plumb-bob
26/03/2013
2:15:27 PM
Don't set goals or you may disappoint yourself! Heaven forbid.
One Day Hero
26/03/2013
3:50:51 PM
I'd like to respond to that properly, but it'll turn into a manifesto against american influenced meritocracy, fitness industry myths, and a general societal trend towards selfishness and isolation.

the abbreviated version;
- distantly delayed, one off, self absorbed, low percentage, do or die goals = not very constructive
- a series of logically progressing, enjoyable, team oriented goals = much better idea

Miguel75
26/03/2013
3:56:20 PM
On 26/03/2013 plumb-bob wrote:
>Don't set goals or you may disappoint yourself! Heaven forbid.

That's what I'm slowly starting to realize; If I set my expectations really really low, than I'm rarely disappointed;)

Roca, enjoy yourself both climbing and running. If you're ever keen to put your two belay loops to good use aiding let me know. It's truly a dark art and a good excuse to buy lots of gear. And the only way I can get up a gr24-25:)

plumb-bob
26/03/2013
4:07:55 PM
On 26/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
>I'd like to respond to that properly, but it'll turn into a manifesto against
>american influenced meritocracy, fitness industry myths, and a general
>societal trend towards selfishness and isolation.
>
>the abbreviated version;
> - distantly delayed, one off, self absorbed, low percentage, do or die
>goals = not very constructive
> - a series of logically progressing, enjoyable, team oriented goals =
>much better idea

That's a much nicer way of putting it. Agree wholeheartedly.
dalai
26/03/2013
4:58:19 PM
On 26/03/2013 One Day Hero wrote:
> - a series of logically progressing, enjoyable, team oriented goals =
>much better idea

So getting the belayers tick for a mates hardest redpoint > than your hardest redpoint?
Penguin
26/03/2013
8:46:22 PM
It’s been really interesting to watch this thread (a request for a climbing partner) fall from good straightforward advice by many and perhaps some gentle ribbing into disintegration and an assignation of motive & intent by others.

This is the very reason why I never contribute to this forum – and one can only assume its why there isn’t a larger take up amongst the ‘community’ given the number of climbers – because Chockstone is so frequently dominated by opinions and attitudes as demonstrated here.

Thanks for bring back my erstwhile faith in a climbing ‘community’ Plumb-bob;
Roca ‘ignore the trolls’ is good advice, climbing is a lot of different things to different people – not getting caught up in other peoples agendas and value judgments is difficult but just remember you climb for yourself.
anthonycuskelly
27/03/2013
7:41:55 AM
dalai, I belay significantly harder than I climb...

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 39
There are 39 messages in this topic.

 

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