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2nd Buffalo learn aid-climbing w/e 20-21 Nov 2010

1:01:15 PM
The behind the scenes interest in learning aid climbing still continues...
A number of people could not make it to the first event, and back then I suggested a possible future event next spring...

So, depending on response, here is a date to consider, as camping at Lake Catani is open again then...

I propose November 20-21st (weather being reasonable) as a weekend to meet up at Mt Buffalo, to share experience / learn about / try out clean-aid techniques! ... or simply watch and learn if you like!!

~> A general invite for folk considering trying out the dark arts of aid climbing! ... but not restricted to newbies, as anyone interested in this side of the game is welcome to participate. In fact if more experienced aiders turn up, then the group learning thingy benefits heaps.
Those who attended the first weekend are welcome to re-attend* to fine tune or advance their skills...
(*Hmm, but no repeats of Trogsters groundfall effort please! ☺)

I reckon the best way of learning is practical experience in a (relatively) controlled environment, and I am happy to share some prehistoric knowledge and equipment to assist others who may want to have a crack at the game.

It would be easy to fill in a weekend with participants top roping, leading, or seconding (in etts), a few short routes to start dialling in technique, or clarify for themselves any further intentions they may have about aid climbing**.

Routes that come to mind readily are Creamed Rice & Mangoes (M2) at The Horn area; Thanksgiving Crack (M3) and also The Cream Machine (M4) at Disabled Lookout area (exposure and RP work, plus cam-hooking possibilities); Faust & Elizabeth out at Devils Couch area (lots of variety for the grade M4 .. maybe a bit M5ish due technical-strenuous, but it's not that thin. It is also about 35m long, so one can set up a hanging belay and haul there for those interested in that aspect of the game); Maybe try your hand at M5 Sportclimb (top pitch of Strange Ritual on the Nth Wall of The Gorge); and for those up to it, harder stuff can be found, or even the possibility of doing your own new route!
Alternatively come along and clean aid that free climb you have never been able to get up!

At this stage from PM conversations I have had behind the scenes, it is likely there will be 3 starters at least, and I anticipate a relaxed weekend (no pressure), with people attending for as little or as long as they want to.

Bring your gear, or make up the innovations that you have been thinking about, and test them out! Afterwards camp at Lake Catani and enjoy the social aspect of climbing camaraderie.

(**)Usual caveats apply.
Aid climbing can be boring as- ~> especially for belayers.
It is often slow.
It can be hard (both physically and mentally).
All care taken, but no responsibility accepted by the proposer of this adventure!
You can fall and hurt yourself or die while attempting aid climbing, etc, etc.

Link to trip report thread from the last Buffalo learn to aid climb weekend.

1:10:20 PM
Im in! they tell me it will help if I grow a beard?

1:46:21 PM
I'm keen.
2:22:59 PM
We will be there.
2:28:51 PM
On 17/08/2010 egosan wrote:
>We will be there.

Run for the hills! Sol has cloned himself.
2:56:44 PM
Nah, that is just the royal we. I met a guy who shared my name once. I ate him.

3:26:33 PM
Oh god. Living with TWO Sol's. No wonder I work in theatre-fantasy land.
4:22:31 PM
Im in.

6:29:46 PM
I'm keen for the Sat, wife's permission pending.... actually super excited for this! Thanks for proposing another weekend M9.
7:22:47 PM
What skill level is required? Would love to give it a go but am light on in the experience department.
9:44:56 PM
kimbyl: going by last year's outing, you'll come away with a lot more experience than you arrive with. If you're interested, I highly recommend it -- you'll find something that suits.

11:10:42 PM
On 17/08/2010 markq wrote:
>Im in! they tell me it will help if I grow a beard?

yeah, but not too long in case it get's caught in your jumars.

4:01:39 PM
On 17/08/2010 bl@ke wrote:
>Im in.

I thought you would be busy climbing Ozy free?

4:04:09 PM
Trying to pm you mate, says your full
5:26:13 PM
On 18/08/2010 gordoste wrote:
>On 17/08/2010 bl@ke wrote:
>>Im in.
>I thought you would be busy climbing Ozy free?

Na I think ill work the moves from aiders that weekend.
8:34:12 PM
I showed up at the last one of these. Not to aid climb, of course..Just to have a cuppa, socialise, and see if I couldn't convince any first-timers to walk away, nothing further said, and we'd go free climbing for the day. 8am in the carpark on the south side, just as it said on Chockstone. Not a soul in site. What a lame bunch, I thought, no-one's even showed! So I trundled off for a climb on a perfect day.
Got back home, checked Choccy..wrong bloody month. I was there Sat 20th Feb, not March! Curses...
Hope you have fun...

10:33:03 AM
Heh, heh, heh.

Hey hipster, talking of February and Buffalo, ... back in 2008 you did a line with Schwerd, that is referred to in my TR Buffalo Oysters. What did you call it? & grade?
I did get details once, but have since misplaced them. I think your line went clean at 25?

~> I want to finish the M7 project (sometime), that I started, by straightening out its final pitch (no bolts), as an aid line in its own right, and it would be good to parody the aid-name, on your theme, as part of the chequered history of that climb.

10:53:10 AM
Count me in too!
12:55:49 PM
You're bringing back some fond memories there M9. A three pitch route just to the right of Yellow Moon, the pitches went free at 20,24 and 23, mostly tRad . I put in a rap station down near the top of the wall that may be useful to you if you ab in.
Now the route name..Arch Rival. It had multiple meanings..the competition from various parties for the FA (yourself included!) and a reference to the recent rival I had for my wife's attention/ new son Archie! Plus it crosses that huge arch.
Good luck with the aid ascent, and subsequent naming!

9:03:36 PM
Thanks for the feedback hipster.

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There are 114 messages in this topic.


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