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failed attempt at Echo Crack (190m 18 M5) + snow


Bernardo

27-Jul-2004
12:27:55 PM


Bernardo

27-Jul-2004
12:28:58 PM


Bernardo

27-Jul-2004
12:40:39 PM


Bernardo

27-Jul-2004
12:42:10 PM

well thast soem of the photos(the better one anyway)
adn even one max will kill me when he finds out i posted it;)
hehehehe
sorry max:)
i just couldnt help it, you just look so proud with all that gear!!!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

27-Jul-2004
12:44:29 PM

Great stuff Bernado, particularly the shot with the 3 Sisters in the background.

I am pleased for your attempt, and find it inspiring that 'yung fellahs' are getting out there and doing it! Your experience all the more so, given Maxots info that you were virtually learning aid 'on the job' (so to speak) ...; combined with the committment displayed by going through the logistics process etc to even access the climb.

Well done both of you.

(If I was a soothsayer, I envisage many successful climbs ahead in your future).


Bernardo

27-Jul-2004
1:58:34 PM

thank you for the premonition!!;)
no so sure about"young"..max is young..
im feeling damn old lately!!
heheh
anywho..
more adventures sure are on the list...there many plans such as ozy, frenchmans cap adn many many more..
oh yeah, like max: if anyone needs a belay slave for something on the bigger side im up for it (as long as time allows) i do have the advantage of livign in victoria and having faour day weekends every week(except for when we go on trips with uni, that dosent happen that often though)
:)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

27-Jul-2004
2:14:07 PM

On 27/07/2004 Bernardo wrote:
>no so sure about"young"..max is young..
Its all relative. I am 50+ years young myself so anthing less than half that is ...

>im feeling damn old lately!!
So, ... what does 'damn old' think about being felt up?

>oh yeah, like max: if anyone needs a belay slave for something on the
>bigger side im up for it (as long as time allows) i do have the advantage
>of livign in victoria and having faour day weekends every week

With that kind of time you and Max ought to be able to give Magic & Loss a fair scare, as soon as the weather warms up.
If you plan it far enough ahead and want a slow old bumbly like myself to join you, I would consider it favourably (if it fits with my other committments).


Clancy

27-Jul-2004
4:43:04 PM

hey bernardo,
ever though about blade ridge linked into the west face (i think??) on federation peak about 600m at 18...

its probably epic enough to interest you...by the way did you end up climbing anything at gibralter on sat (we went to the movies then the gym after we left...)

clancy


maxots

27-Jul-2004
9:26:43 PM

io wasn't writing bernardo off at all, only it had seemed like you (bernardo) had said you were too busy, i hope its clear you are my first choice to go back onto some bigwall with. Yeah I look a bit silly in the "POSER" photo, i just enjoyed all the gear ! ! !

(we climbed one thing on sat clancy > good to know whos who > youre now, ONE of the ANU guys !)

well bernardo let me know when you can next bigwall (ill leave next weekend !!! > how does magic and loss sound to you??? would you be interested in coming along A5 ???? Not really next weekend, when the weather clears so a few months. Id have to finish my portaledge looks like a steep route !!!

in fact why dont i post on the find climbers section !!! moving this over as more relevant there !!!


maxots

2-Jun-2005
8:14:34 PM

after the final resolution of my "OZY anyone???" thread with our recent ascent, I thought Id let you all know that this one is going to be resolved also, we (me and sparks) going up to do echo crack next wednesday. No bivvying and hopefully no snow this time, after Ozy we're fairly confident all should go well let's see! Stay tuned for the trip report!

sorry bernardo looking at this trip report it seems I already broke my promise to do the next wall with you, sorry mate! If you read this....> how are you ? You must be ripping it up on trad by now! Done any more aiding?


Bernardo

3-Jun-2005
12:18:02 PM

hey max..yeah, sorry been pretty quiet lateltly. much to do.
im not ripping but im pushing. probably goign to the gramps tomorow or so, mt rosea. long long climbs aparently. should be fun.

no aiding for me, been teaching my sister and some friends mostly, training up some climbign partners i guess.
adn starting an actual job next week so i already got a long list of gear that must be bought;)
i drove through canberra a couple of months ago but couldnt find u:( oh well, next time..

dont worry about the big wall thing, im not stressed. we should all jump at any opurtunity we get! adn good work on ozy.. i have my own plan for that little wall, muahahaha...
but mainly im looking forward to a little climbing adventure with my family, my parents have just taken up climbing again, those bastards have been going to italy, france, etc...damn ppl living in europe.
adn my sister has been getting pretty hard core, she was at point perp just the other day adn should be goign to frog for a while this weekend or so, adn at the end of the year we are all meeting adn doign a bit of a climbing tour of probably victoria and tasmania...that should be stacks of fun.
anywho..no need to write an essay..:)


maxots

4-Jun-2005
11:10:50 AM

good to hear from you man!

Let us know how some of that stuff goes, maybe send some pics!

Yeah we been buying up too, just got a set of camalot C4s each, and buying a rack of pitons in a couple of weeks too (for some dogface or lord gumtree action!)

The other project is trying to convince neil (@ bundah) to come and do a wall with me, its been a while since he aided but he reckons he can't get time off family! He'll come round soon enough!

Nothings more important than some pointless toil with the vertical!


Bernardo

4-Jun-2005
5:42:48 PM

looks like gramps just turned into araps, but that dosent bother me at all!
ah max..nothing more important?..not to sure about that, it certaily is right up there on my list of priorities, but its not number one!..(i think food is;))

so how is neil going? (say hi)
adnhows bundah? stil enjoy it? ur third year running right?

anywho..this is a trip report thread not a catch up thread..and the blue stone underpass calls my name..loudly!
:)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Jun-2005
8:08:31 AM

Lord Gumtree goes clean.
You will not need
>a rack of pitons
for it.


maxots

7-Jun-2005
8:13:51 AM

sorry I got confused.... yes I was aware gumtree goes clean, the pins were needed for holden caulfield (it doesn't go clean does it?) which is what we were gonna do instead of gumtree, (heard it is a better line?!) might do gumtree toooooo!

P.S > leave for echo crack tonight!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

7-Jun-2005
8:57:03 AM

Holden Caulfield goes clean too.

For Buffalo unless you are putting up a new line and its thin aid then pitons are largely obsolete. Even the new style (birdbeaks, peckers etc) can often be hand placed ...

I know more than a few aid climbers who have racks of pitons largely unused, particularly anything bigger than knifeblades.

I take a couple of knifeblades and baby angles on the rack as emergency items only in case I needed to perform a self rescue due to a party member becoming injured etc.
I carry a half dozen pecker/birdbeaks/rurps though and seldom use many of them, unless the line has extensive thin stretches.
Same goes for copperheads, ... again seldom used unless its known beforehand that they are required. Things like Copperhaed Road would have most (if not all) left insitu.


maxots

9-Jun-2005
8:32:40 PM

ok cool. i heard it needed peckers? must not? assuming youve done it clean?

cheers for the heads up!


maxots

9-Jun-2005
8:33:35 PM

Finished the climb yesterday by the way ..... except not! well we kinda did, anyway will wrtie more when energy allows!


maxots

12-Jun-2005
4:57:42 PM

oh can't be bothered with a full tirp report, but all i can say is A3 is getting a little scary!, the stuff we did on the first half was a cruise by comparison!, give us a call if youre ever in canberra bernardo!


mousey

12-Jun-2005
5:10:27 PM

im gonna try talk tony into doing it with me (echo crack, that is) any beta on the gear? email me...cheers

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