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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 63
Author
TR: Cosmic County and Narrowneck

nmonteith
18/06/2013
5:02:40 PM
Cathedral has some wicked rounded offwidths.
prb
18/06/2013
5:13:40 PM
On 18/06/13 Big G wrote:
>Now this is not meant to steal the thread but should the word be "jam" or "jamb"?

"Jam" as in jam-packed; a jamb has little to do with climbing.

And in Bultitude's message, it's "practise". And while I'm on a roll, it's "mantel" not "mantle", and...I cringe at the English in some of my former posts.
prb
18/06/2013
5:16:49 PM
Actually, if Bultitude is an American, s/he is correct in using "practice".
dalai
18/06/2013
5:58:36 PM
On 18/06/2013 prb wrote:
>On 18/06/13 Big G wrote:
>>Now this is not meant to steal the thread but should the word be "jam"
>or "jamb"?
>
>"Jam" as in jam-packed; a jamb has little to do with climbing.

Actually Big G was heading in the right direction, I believe it should be 'jamB'.
technogeekery
18/06/2013
6:20:18 PM
On 18/06/2013 prb wrote:
And while I'm on a roll,
>it's "mantel" not "mantle", and...

Ooooh - some wonderful nitpicking here. Mantel (n) is the shelf above a fireplace, and the origin of the climbing term, so I see your point. But I'm calling it open to adjudication, as the verb to "mantel/mantle" hasn't been accepted into any of the dictionaries that I can find, but "dismantle" certainly has (synonym - dismount) and I've frequently dismantled while attempting to mantel... On balance (pun intended) I'm going with you and "mantel".
One Day Hero
18/06/2013
6:40:40 PM
So, I reckon the most important thing for learning to crack climb properly is milage. This is tricky in N.S.W., because there aren't many venues which have enough cracks to assemble proper milage days............and sandstone cracks are mostly smattered with enough crimps and ledges and things that you can (and will) cheat your way around a lot of the jamming while you're learning.

The solution to the first problem is to climb laps on the routes you do. e.g. lead the first lap, then run toprope laps afterwards. Concentrate on climbing nicely rather than bashing out x number of laps in terrible, thrashy style.

Once you have a few routes dialed like this, organise them into a regular "crack warmup routine". For example, when I go to Piddo I warm up on Psychopath, then rap down and do Eternity, then wander over and do Flake Crack......pretty much every time. It's a quick efficient way to warm up because you'll have the routes wired after a few such days, and you always keep the jamming milage ticking over (your body will forget pretty quickly if you don't stay regular)

As far as "face hold cheating" is concerned, once you're doing your regular crack routes with relative ease.....just stop cheating. Don't grab the crimps to shake out your thumb muscles or stand on the ledge for 2mins to depump, this is training, not ticking routes (obviously when attempting to climb a crack for the first time, by all means use the available cheats!)

Once you're climbing sandstone cracks fairly comfortably, head up to Frog and prepare to be reamed. Don't worry, it happens to everyone on their first trip up there. You'll probably feel like a beginner again, but when you return sandstone cracks will feel comically easy.

Also, if you aren't onto it already, tape your hands and get the biggest chalkbag you can find.

Go and get after it!

Big G
18/06/2013
7:27:41 PM
On 18/06/2013 prb wrote:

>"Jam" as in jam-packed; a jamb has little to do with climbing

So it's got nothing to do with preserved fruit? I always thought jamb as in door jamb, window jamb.
prb
19/06/2013
11:48:12 AM
Thanks for the TR, I need to get to these places.

As for the thread hijack, I agree Big G. A case can be made for 'jamb' but not a very convincing one. Websters seems to be alone among the major dictionaries in allowing jamb to be a verb and an alternate spelling of jam. There is a general consensus (including online grammarians) that jamb is a noun referring to an upright of a window or door (from the French jambe > leg). From The Good English Guide (Godfrey Howard):

"Jam is a verb and noun with a number of meanings, such as a fruit conserve, what happens to traffic in the rush hour and (informally) for the kind of mess we try not to get into. Jamb can only be a noun, and is an architectural term for the sidepost of a doorway or window frame."

Slow day at work!
climberman
19/06/2013
12:20:13 PM
On 19/06/2013 prb wrote:
>Thanks for the TR, I need to get to these places.
>
>As for the thread hijack, I agree Big G. A case can be made for 'jamb'
>but not a very convincing one. Websters seems to be alone among the major
>dictionaries in allowing jamb to be a verb and an alternate spelling of
>jam. There is a general consensus (including online grammarians) that jamb
>is a noun referring to an upright of a window or door (from the French
>jambe > leg). From The Good English Guide (Godfrey Howard):
>
>"Jam is a verb and noun with a number of meanings, such as a fruit conserve,
>what happens to traffic in the rush hour and (informally) for the kind
>of mess we try not to get into. Jamb can only be a noun, and is an architectural
>term for the sidepost of a doorway or window frame."
>
>Slow day at work!

Complete fail at 'history of interstate climbing rivalries 101'

Well done Dalai !
kieranl
19/06/2013
12:31:41 PM
jamB - as in : ":If I wasn't so knackered I could jamB this" attributed to Rick White on the upper pitches of Lord Gumtree
dalai
19/06/2013
6:03:28 PM
On 19/06/2013 climberman wrote:

>Well done Dalai !

Thanks, though I couldn't remember exactly who said it, so full credit goes to Kieran...
climberman
19/06/2013
6:27:52 PM
On 19/06/2013 dalai wrote:
>On 19/06/2013 climberman wrote:
>
>>Well done Dalai !
>
>Thanks, though I couldn't remember exactly who said it, so full credit
>goes to Kieran...

well, there's always half marks for your working out in any good test.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/06/2013
7:16:39 PM
On 19/06/2013 climberman wrote:
>Jamb
>Complete fail at 'history of interstate climbing rivalries 101'
>
>Well done Dalai !
&
>well, there's always half marks for your working out in any good test.

All us old farts already knew that.
This only goes to show that dalai is entering old fart category...
;-)
kieranl
19/06/2013
7:41:52 PM
The quote from the Lord Gumtree ascent wasn't the original origin (so to speak). I think it was originally from an article in Thrutch spruiking Frog that had numerous references to people "jamBing diagonally" across bulges in "glass-smooth horror-crack"s.
They certainly tended to understate things in those days ;)
climberman
19/06/2013
7:52:47 PM
On 19/06/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 19/06/2013 climberman wrote:
>>Jamb
>>Complete fail at 'history of interstate climbing rivalries 101'
>>
>>Well done Dalai !
>&
>>well, there's always half marks for your working out in any good test.
>
>
>All us old farts already knew that.
>This only goes to show that dalai is entering old fart category...
>;-)

but .... for me.. that means . . agahaggagahhggagaghhhhhhh ... Noooooooooo !
prb
20/06/2013
10:51:38 AM
I'm well and truly in the 'old fart' category and I remember a Rick White jamBing article in Rock (which may have been a glossy version of the Thrutch article). I live in a State with few interstate (climbing) rivalries, except for stories of Victorian raiders at Moonarie. Rick may have been a Websters dictionary man in which case he was perfectly correct.
dalai
20/06/2013
11:11:24 AM
On 19/06/2013 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>This only goes to show that dalai is entering old fart category...
>;-)

Entering? Already been a card carrying member a few years now...

pmonks
22/06/2013
6:52:59 AM
On 20/06/2013 dalai wrote:
>Entering? Already been a card carrying member a few years now...

Do you have to hand in your lycra in return for the card? That was the rumour I'd heard and I'm not sure that's a trade I'm willing to make...
james
22/06/2013
7:05:02 AM
80s/early 90s lycra is a prerequisite for riding the Bart?

pmonks
22/06/2013
7:13:58 AM
On 22/06/2013 james wrote:
>80s/early 90s lycra is a prerequisite for riding the Bart?

Yeah - turns out it's a more effective barrier than cotton between your arse and the "bacteriologically advanced" cloth seats.

 Page 3 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 63
There are 63 messages in this topic.

 

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