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ARAPS - Queens Bday Weekend

..::- Chris -::..
10:45:27 AM
On Friday night, myself Andrew H, Normsy and Nigel threw all the gear in the back of the 4x4 and with some awesome driving efforts by myself, left melbourne at 8pm, Got to Araps at 1:20am Saturday morning (Don't ask).

Woke up to overcast windy weather conditions, Eggs and bacon breaky,
We did Cassandra (18) lucky enough Andrew got up it in light rain !! Awesome effort.

Then went accross to Agamenmeonenmem (11) Now in all my years of climbing I've missed doing this classic ..... My friends preaching 3 stars chris, it's a classic, etc etc....I had allot of trouble seeing the 3 stars in the conditions that i climbed it in.....

The first clue that this climb may not have been 3 stars on saturday was the fact the first 5 moves were completely covered by a loverly waterfall, some nice greeny fungy slipery holds were very nice on the hands, none the less I continued on.

A close mate (Nigal) was beleying me, Nig is new to climbing (it was his second lead beley ever) anyways on and up i continued, the rock very slippery almost slick like limestone (sorta), I continued up to where the infamous bridge accross where i posed for a photo. All was fine at this stage, then seconds later, the sky above me, went from white cloads to very grey/black dark storm clouds and within seconds the rain started pelting down.

Now having not done the route before and not really knowing where to go (on route) and having not read the guide book i got the impression i was to climb up the right side (facing the campgroup) which was correct, but i climbed the edge away from the campsite (later i found out i was supposed to head towards the campsite) anyways found myself holding on to a sloper, with gear down and on the opposite wall, my 95kg bum standing on a very thin arete which looked a little un-solid, with my friend beleying me on his second beley, rain pooring down from the sky above, and the rock becoming more and more slick, and harder and harder to trust as time went on....

This was a bit of a head F#$%, but after a few "Why do i always do this to myself" a couple of "sh## f$$$ DOH!!) words and a few words to my friends who thought this climb would be good on a wet day, "You reckon this is 3 stars, 3 star my a$$" I progressed to the top and made it to safety, then my other climbing partner (Andrew) met me at the top with another rope, to which i absailed down the cliff, got my gear back, put my very damp and wet rope, wet gear and wet harness and chalk bag, in my very wet pack and slipped and slided my way back to my very wet campsite, where for the next 3 days it would rain on and off. The rain would only stop long enough to tease you into thinking you may get another climb.

But we all had fun, lots of climbers escaping the wind rain and cold for the Nati Pub, the next day it was to be the same, an hour of bouldering then off the Horsham Movies to see "The day after tomorrow" the cinema filled with climbers : )

Bumped into Jaq at the Nati Pub, followed by the cinima, then Safeway, great minds think alike !!

I'd like to say a special hello to the very intellegent people who decided to do the Bard with Stormy rain clouds all round on Sunday Morning, we were the ones waving at you as you abseiled down the second pitch in storm / blizzard conditions !! : ) Having been through the same the day before, I can say I know the feeling, though i must say that i would never touch the bard or any multi pitch on a day where i could see rain clouds comming toward us from every direction, but hey thats me.... ; P

Drove back Monday around lunchtime, got back to melbourne and went for a Boulder in the garage and that was the most climbing we did for the weekend...

Overall lots of fun, lots of alcohol not allot of climbing, but good friends make all the difference...


8:27:49 AM
Great stuff Chris! there was a lot of " "Why do i always do this to myself"" at our camp too!! I geared up to lead at Mitre Rock, and it started to piss heavily.... we could see the fronts coming in from the northern side (meant to be sunny side) of Mitre Rock.

1:01:16 PM

>We did Cassandra (18) ...Then went accross to Agamenmeonenmem (11)....

>I'd like to say a special hello to the very intellegent people who decided
>to do the Bard with Stormy rain clouds all round on Sunday Morning

Anyone silly enough to wander up Toccata or Brolga ? I kinda thought the guide book says something about Agamenon being good for a hot day. At least we were only on a juggy single pitch 10 when it rained (um, hailed..)..

Jezabel and Oceanoid might have been the way to go..!! Golden streak and good morning araps got a pretty good workout by our crew, while we discussed heading to Altona!! Fortunately, everyone was to drunk to drive...[weren't they Neats!! :-) ]


..::- Chris -::..
4:35:20 PM
On 16/06/2004 Richard wrote:
>Anyone silly enough to wander up Toccata or Brolga ? I kinda thought the
>guide book says something about Agamenon being good for a hot day. At least
>we were only on a juggy single pitch 10 when it rained (um, hailed..)..

Yeah I normally study the guide book before i climb, I didn't bring it with me up to the crag, thought to myself it's an eleven should be fine.... It did turn out alright, but i got very very wet .. !!

We did think about auto De fai but no one wanted to lead it !! hehehehe
You always take a chance going to araps in winter, I've gone away with forcasts of rain and had 2 days of blue sky and 21 degree warmth, then others it's not supposed to rain and buckets down.....
Damm weather people !!! Although they were right this time, i just didn't want to beleive it......

8:59:39 PM
>You always take a chance going to araps in winter,

Absolutely.. I recall one weekend, there was only 1 other tent in the pines, we spent a great time between light shows climbing in the atridae, in the sunny gaps, while these other guys got blasted by the wind and rain on the plaque.. Man, that's a windy piece of rock!! it was kinda funny to watch.. :-)

Looks like a similar weekend again..


phil box
1:33:38 PM
Ahhhh, makes me glad to be in sunny Queensland where it is cool and dry in the early mornings, warming up to beautiful sunny days. Perfect climbing weather.

1:35:41 PM
... but 30'C and 100% hummidty for 9 months of the year eh Phil! ;-)

phil box
4:59:43 PM
I wouldn`t go that far as to say 9 months of the year, more like 6 months. Thing is when it gets too cold down where you guys are you should simply migrate north for the winter. The other side of that is that I should take my own good advice and head down there more in summer eh. But then I can always head over to the Glasshouse Mountains and catch an afternoon sea breeze in the shade.

5:08:14 PM
'shade' being 28'C and 100% hummidty
5:33:59 PM
Get this boyos!... blue mtns 6months of the year, beautiful weather, orange walls, the other six months alternating between pumpers at Bowens, muscle fests at Nowra, and thrillers at Point Perp, alternating with the odd trip on a good day to Pierces or Ikara or Bungonia, and summer afternoons at Sissy crag or the Balkans! All day trips (or less) too!! Sydney roooooolz! (but I still go for Queensland in the footy!)

4:50:33 PM
judging by the promising weather forecasts (rain, wind and cold) it doesn't sound very sane (to a non-crazed_climbing_addict unlike most of you lovely folks)
but i'm almost packed to leave thursday am for the first time to Araps (long time overdue)

apart from the obvious benefit of few people queuing up for climbs- how miserable is it really there when it's miserable? i haven't bought the guidebook yet (tomorrow), but could anyone suggest any bearable places to hide and pray for good weather? (mmm, home, under the doona)

8:50:25 AM
the pub is a great 'crag' in bad weather. you can play nati rock 'star' spotting.

1:07:46 PM
now there's an idea :o))

just as well though we went to Wilson's Prom - beautiful weather!!.
are there any restrictions on climbing in the park? the boulders outside the lighthouse look pretty good!
6:32:12 PM
I understand there are issues with walking off (formed) tracks which have in turn caused problems getting to crags.

6:43:19 PM
Officially you need a climbing permit to rock-climb at Wilsons Prom which obtained from the rangers office. Tounge Point is the only officially banned crag in the park (and the best crag). Full details are in the latest VCC guide to Eastern Victoria.

11:01:37 AM
will look into it..
thanks :o)

There are 16 messages in this topic.


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