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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 4 of 5. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 80 | 81 to 96
Author
Killiecrankie, Flinders Island

rodw
23/01/2012
6:42:03 PM
Okay now your being silly...you can't be a donkey and a cow ...time to move on...pick one from one of the two icons below for your profile so the matter can be settled so we can get back to the important topics of "To bolt on not to bolt" and" Is chalk really aid"


nmonteith
23/01/2012
6:44:17 PM
I think the only people who can comment about a) the crag and b) the guide should be the people who have used the guide at the crag. By all accounts Wendy is one of them.

muki
23/01/2012
6:47:53 PM
On 23/01/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>The content of a guide should at least match the effort put into the design
>and photography.

is that why crux folded ...the graphics were woefully hard to decipher, some good photos but in all the print was too tiny and the wrong colour to make it enjoyable reading.

I mentioned Lynn because we are friends, and I was actually climbing on Taipan the day Lynn was on it with her partner and simon taking shots, we had a chat about that day much later in the states when bouldering together in new york just before the release of her book.
She seemed to like it enough to leave out all the negativity your posts above reflect.


nmonteith
23/01/2012
6:57:45 PM
On 23/01/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>is that why crux folded ...the graphics were woefully hard to decipher,
>some good photos but in all the print was too tiny and the wrong colour
>to make it enjoyable reading.

That's exactly why it folded. We couldn't employ enough people to handle all the complaints about the graphics. It just got too overwhelming. Damn designers ruined it for everyone.
hipdos
23/01/2012
7:47:52 PM
are you two married

nmonteith
23/01/2012
8:45:10 PM
On 23/01/2012 hipdos wrote:
>are you two married

We split up for a few years but we're trying to patch the relationship up again.
hipdos
23/01/2012
10:39:32 PM
On 23/01/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>On 23/01/2012 hipdos wrote:
>>are you two married
>
>We split up for a few years but we're trying to patch the relationship
>up again.

well the make up sex should be good

IdratherbeclimbingM9
23/01/2012
10:44:48 PM
On 23/01/2012 Wendy wrote:
>Rod, more piffle! The rock insert is a crappy guide, just as I would expect
>it to be. It's the cheap and nasty sort of guide that is expected to be
>cheap and nasty. It was free with Rock. Or all of about 5.95 with out
>it. No one's claiming anything or expecting anything much of it. The same
>standards don't apply to guides that are full price, high level production
>kind of publications. It's a waste of the bloody paper they are on to
>just reproduce the cheap and nasty guide stuff in them. Just stick with
>the cheap and nasty format. I would not have had a beef if I'd gone down
>with a few crappy photocopy sheets and hand drawn maps and discovered they
>were inadequate and inaccurate. I'd be a donkey if I didn't expect them
>to be.

We are saying the same thing sort of.
I agree the Rock 'Bungles Guide is a basic* (read crappy!) guide! ... but, it had/has a place and in the absence of anything better met a need to an extent.
(*It might be light on for detail, but what is there is reasonably accurate).

I have never been to Killiecrankie and if I was to go would treat it as an adventure area. It sounds to me like the 'inadequate' guide to that area maintains the adventure by default, and I agree with you that if I paid significant $ for it, that I would expect a reasonable standard of accuracy. I accept your (& climbing partner/s) version that it is not what some people expect in a guidebook these days.
If nothing else, at least you could work out from it if the intended line had been done, the name and date of it, and an approximate grade; ... everything else was an adventure chucked in for free!


On 23/01/2012 nmonteith wrote:
>I think the only people who can comment about a) the crag and b) the guide
>should be the people who have used the guide at the crag. By all accounts
>Wendy is one of them.

So what are internet forum sites for?
;-)
One Day Hero
23/01/2012
11:11:32 PM
On 23/01/2012 onsight wrote:
>
>Yep, she sure did. In particular the start of Sirocco p2 was especially
>frustrating for her.

Being short isn't really the problem on Sirocco. The problem is that its bastard hard (and completely out of place on a 26) no matter how tall you are.

As long as everyone realise's that Wendy is a shortarse, they can filter her discriptions as they see fit. I have about a foot and a half of extra reach, so clearly my idea of reachy and Wendy's idea of reachy are not the same thing. However, after climbing with Wendy on some slippery, licheny canberra granite and having watched her enjoy the experience, I'm pretty happy to take her word on the state of friction down on Flinders Island.
One Day Hero
23/01/2012
11:15:02 PM
On 23/01/2012 bomber pro wrote:
>
>I mentioned Lynn because we are friends

:D

I wish I could come up with one liners that were as funny as that

muki
24/01/2012
1:21:45 AM
Ive sent you a pm and photos
onsight
24/01/2012
10:01:26 AM
On 23/01/2012 One Day Hero wrote:
>Being short isn't really the problem on Sirocco. The problem is that its
>bastard hard (and completely out of place on a 26) no matter how tall you
>are.

I agree Sirocco is hard and I see that I've given it 27 in my captions because I don't think that it's 26 for starters... but I disagree the rest -- height makes a massive difference on this one. Lynn tried all out dynoing for ages, with and without the rack on, then tried to climb around the dyno using some minuscule edges... If she could have found a way at grade 29 or 30 for her, then I'm sure she would have. Unfortunately Taipan is particularly lacking in intermediates and makes some of the routes there a hell of a lot harder if you are shorter.

I've seen Lynn's success cited numerous times over the years by various people trying to argue that height makes little difference in climbing. I think something that Lynn once had to say about height often gets quoted too. Obviously I think that's wrong but I also think it's funny; you should have heard Lynn cussing on Taipan that day!


cruze
24/01/2012
10:37:03 AM
Simon, you have worked with some of the best climbers in the world over the years, and I would be interested in knowing how tall you think most of them are? Males - 5'10"? Females - 5'8"? I just don't get the impression that for all round ability height, per se, is an advantage. That is, there aren't many 6'6" giants cranking out 5.15, bouldering V14 and big walling in remote locations.

tnd
24/01/2012
2:21:09 PM
The height that counts is tip of toe to tip of fingers when arm is upstretched. Normal height measurement won't account for ape factor.
Wendy
24/01/2012
2:31:16 PM
Lincoln Shepherd once said that climbing is harder the further in either direction you are from 5'8''. He's 5'8''

I think the main factor is height to weight. Really tall people are often also relatively heavy. At some point, the extra weight outweighs the extra height. And those top climbers at the short end are also stupidly light. Like nearly 10kg lighter than I am.

And I really did pull the short straw when they were handing out climbing physiques, because my ape factor is minus 3cm. And standing on my tippytoes would be lucky to give me 10cm. Whilst I'm pulling almost irrelevant quotes out, Darren Trew once said he wouldn't even be able to fit his dick into my climbing shoes. I'm not sure why that was the first analogy that occurred to him.
gfdonc
24/01/2012
2:45:17 PM
On 24/01/2012 Wendy wrote:
>At some point, the extra weight outweighs the extra
>height.

And I suppose at some point the extra height outhighs the extra weight?
mikllaw
24/01/2012
4:48:27 PM
Short is good most of the time, and the steeper the better. Short is terrible if your feet are bridged wide. Or if you're trying to reach a bolt.
Tall is worse a lot of the time, but spectacularly better some of the time, particularly on vertical and under rock.
Lighter is good all the time.

Superstu
24/01/2012
5:16:35 PM
I can vouch that tall (195cm) and positive ape factor (extra 4cm) do fuch all for your climbing grade.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
24/01/2012
5:20:36 PM
On 24/01/2012 superstu wrote:
>I can vouch that tall (195cm) and positive ape factor (extra 4cm) do fuch
>all for your climbing grade.
>
Only on slabs stu!
It seemed to me that you cruised the reachy crack thing we did at Buffalo while I made hard work of it.
Then again, you may be right, as I climb like an old blouse anyway!
Heh, heh, heh.

Superstu
24/01/2012
5:23:12 PM
On the topic of guidebooks, there is a later guide to the Warrumbungles. It's on the web, its free, and it comes with a disclaimer that its only an interim guide putting the info out there, not a well-researched guide for a cruisy visit.

Why wasn't the old Killikrankie info passed onto thesarvo for inclusion there instead?


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There are 96 messages in this topic.

 

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