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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 70
Author
Of cyborg and creator – Rutger Hauer
f_ladou
1/03/2010
2:56:51 PM
Driving along the Great Western Highway, Shaz asked me "Who's this Rutger Hauer, anyway?". I looked at Alex and he was as nonplussed as I was. A quick Google search revealed he played the reflective, if slightly psychopathic, cyborg in search of longer life in Blade Runner ("I've seen things you people wouln'td believe..."). In fact, Rutger was wanting to meet his creator - something I certainly did not intend to do on this trip.

And as to why Mike Law and co named their recent climb "Rutger Hauer" (105m, 20, 22, 23, 19), it is beyond me (Mike?).

We parked the car as instructed on Bells Line of Road, found the path leading to the top of Hotel California, located the "beautiful elliptical rock formation" (they are) geared up and proceeded with the two abseils down to the base of the so-called "Yesterday's Groove" area. For once we didn't get lost on the walk-in. The day was looking good, overcast and in the low 20s, the North Wall of the Grose Valley staying anyway in the shade until 3-ish at this time of year.

Shaz who had been partying hard the night before recovered all her enthusiasm as she began the abseil. By the time we got to the foot of the climb it was 12:00 and she was totally stoked. But it was Alex who was up for the first pitch (20). Basically, he waltzed up it and both Shaz and I followed. It is indeed juggy as Mike describes it but the rock is of dubious quality on the first half of the pitch. The typical sandy convoluted, patterned sandstone found at that level in the Grose Valley. Nothing to worry about though.

The second pitch (22) was for Shaz. She started it confidently and after 10 meter of tense silence, I asked "How is it Shaz?". Normally, I expect something like "sustained", "good", "hard", or something along those lines. Shaz was obviously enjoying her adherence time as she looked down on us and with the brightest of smiles said "How great is this!". She quickly reached the crux just below the second belay ledge: "ok, i need to bust a move here". Which she did and doing so ticked the second pitch with elegance. At the same crux, I ended up sitting in the rope after a foothold broke under my delicate 80 kilogram touch. Not that it matters greatly since there are footholds aplenty in that section. No jugs though.

The third pitch (23) was mine. It is a great pitch. Exceptional pitch. It is both pumpy and technical with a long final stretch requiring constant concentration and fine footwork. There is little rest except for a potential knee-bar about half-way up depending how tall you are. I thought I would make it clean to the ledge but the pump got the best of me just 2 clips before the end. Suspended 200 meters above the ground, the Grose Valley looked truly majestic. After a short rest, I managed to set up belay after a series of strenuous and rather technical moves.

The fourth and last pitch (19) is rather a formality when compared to the three preceding ones. Alex once more took care of it. If you can do a slight overhang on jugs, then you're home and hosed in no time, which we all were by 4:00. So overall, 4 hours to climb the four pitches. Car to car, including the two 25 minute walk-in/out, rap station finding, two 50 meter abseils and route finding, our trip kept us busy for 6 or 7 hours. A party of two would shave quite a bit of time.

Concerning the grading, I'd say that the third pitch is a couple of grades harder than the second. If this is a 23, I'd say the second should be a 21. Not sure if that makes the first one a 19 or not, though. But you (I hope) be the judge.

And to quote Shaz: "What an awesome climb!"

I agree.

Cheers, François



Alex leading pitch one (20)


Shaz on pitch two (22)


François starting pitch three (23) – check out the view!


A concentrated Shaz seconding pitch three (23) – another tick!

IdratherbeclimbingM9
1/03/2010
4:12:47 PM
A good read that inspires the climbing of the route, ... with the accompanying photos stimulating this desire further!
Thanks for posting the Trip Report f_ladou.
simey
1/03/2010
5:37:51 PM
On 1/03/2010 f_ladou wrote:
>Concerning the grading, I'd say that the third pitch is a couple of grades harder than the second. If this is a 23, I'd say the second should be a 21. Not sure if that makes the first one a 19 or not, though. But you (I hope) be the judge.

Concerning the grading... I think it has been well documented that grade 23 was a bit unlikely given the ageing ability of the first ascentionists (Moss & Claw). Your photo of Shaz seconding the crux pitch with pack on reminded me of doing Bard (12). And your descriptions of the 'juggy' first pitch, the second pitch having 'footholds aplenty' and the last pitch being 'a formality'... well enough said! Knock a couple of grades off all the pitches and then the grading might be a bit closer to reality.

PS. One of these days I might actually go and climb the route.

nmonteith
1/03/2010
6:32:11 PM
I've only done the first pitch which i thought was more like gr 18 - or maybe even easier.
sliianna
2/03/2010
12:26:34 AM
this was an absolutely awesome day out- thanks mike and co for bolting it! For my 5 ft tall self, 1st 2 pitches were the chocalte truffle cake: juggy but sustained with a hard move on the 22, 3rd pitch was the cookies and cream ice cream on top, technical and sustained - a really great pitch.
Highly recommend this day out. ALOT of fun. even with no sleep....



and if we need to debate grades, 1st pitch for me could be a 19, 2nd pitch 21/22, and 3rd pitch 23.pretty similar to what its already graded at. and Simey, stop reading chockstone and open that cafe.
mikllaw
2/03/2010
8:06:06 AM
Just to clarify, the climb was all Moss's hard work (even if I did have to remind him that he'd already claimed it 10 years earlier when he saw it from Mild Perila nd asked why I hadn't done it).

Named Rutger Hauer because Moss thought people wouldn't remember what a nexus 5 was. Well, was he right?

wallwombat
2/03/2010
10:50:28 AM
On 2/03/2010 mikllaw wrote:

>Named Rutger Hauer because Moss thought people wouldn't remember what
>a nexus 5 was. Well, was he right?

The name of the model replicant that Rutger was?
mikllaw
2/03/2010
12:18:17 PM
well, one person knew...
mikllaw
2/03/2010
12:22:12 PM
François,

Great TR, I wanna go do it agains.
So, did you like the look of Yesterday's Groove, awesome line hey?
Mild peril doesn't look as good, but is good fun too.
mikl

Eduardo Slabofvic
2/03/2010
12:23:59 PM
The candle that burns twice as bright burns half as long; and you have burned so very brightly, Roy.
egosan
2/03/2010
12:24:11 PM
On 2/03/2010 mikllaw wrote:
>well, one person knew...

I think you are underestimating the level of geekiness in the climbing community. There maybe a few beer swilling bogans, but they are the minority. For most of us all the beer in Adelaide wouldn't be enough to blot out our geeky natures.
gfdonc
2/03/2010
12:38:43 PM
On 2/03/2010 mikllaw wrote:
>well, one person knew...

Oh goody, time for another poll ..
kieranl
2/03/2010
1:03:19 PM
And which ending did people prefer, the original soppy one where Deckert and his true love (rachel I thinkher name was) zoom off into the sunset or the darker directors cut.
And was Rachel really a replicant and if so does that totally redefine the concept of sex toys?
egosan
2/03/2010
1:08:19 PM
On 2/03/2010 kieranl wrote:
>And which ending did people prefer, the original soppy one where Deckert
>and his true love (rachel I thinkher name was) zoom off into the sunset
>or the darker directors cut.
>And was Rachel really a replicant and if so does that totally redefine
>the concept of sex toys?

If you have to ask....

MonkeyBoy
2/03/2010
1:25:26 PM
In the scene towards the end (of the original dont know if its in the directors cut ) there is a tracking shot back through a door as Rutger Hauer chases H ford through the abandoned house, you can actually see the camera crew running backwards in a mirror through the door

BOOM

wallwombat
2/03/2010
1:28:05 PM
I preferred the directors cut.



and I'm not a bogan.

Eduardo Slabofvic
2/03/2010
1:42:28 PM
It's a shame she wont live. But then again, who does.
egosan
2/03/2010
1:57:39 PM
I'm not in the business. I am the business.
f_ladou
2/03/2010
2:07:01 PM
@mikl – Great great climb indeed. Thanks again for sending me the topo. We intend to do "Mild Peril" next weekend if the weather gods (I hear they are replicants, BTW) allow it. "Yesterday's Groove" looks indeed awesome but your comments about old 24s being 'grades harder' than new ones makes me a little apprehensive...
mikllaw
2/03/2010
6:15:45 PM
On 2/03/2010 f_ladou wrote:
>"Yesterday's Groove" looks indeed awesome
>but your comments about old 24s being 'grades harder' than new ones makes
>me a little apprehensive...
Yes but it has almost 2 x as many bolts now

I think the movie hints that Harrison Ford was a replicant

 Page 1 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 70
There are 70 messages in this topic.

 

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