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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 4 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
Author
New toy at Sublime Point
hughsut
3/12/2009
9:22:50 AM
On 6/04/2009 sportmonkey1 wrote:
>As much as we appreciate these fabbo new routes being bolted for us. You
>do feel a sense of arrogence in the use of carrots instead of rings. I
>bet my nuts that if that route was harder and closer to the max grade these
>boys climb then it would have rings on it.
>Its ok for the masses to fumble with bolt plates if they are near their
>max grade but the first ascent group. It kind of defeats the arguement
>that carrots are ok if they are not used on the harder routes.

Thanks for the insight into how you feel about the use of carrots when the first ascensionists aren't climbing at their limit. You have inspired me to turn the tide. I'm going to bolt something harder than I've ever climbed before using grade 304 stainless, keyed, glue in carrots. I'm thinking about painting the heads so they're camouflaged. Is more run out better so you don't have to fiddle on as many of those bolt plates?

ajfclark
3/12/2009
9:25:32 AM
Could you make them so from a metre or two away it looks like a bolt plate will fit but then when you get there it won't and you have to fiddle on a wire? That'd make it super fun.
J.C.
3/12/2009
11:36:14 AM
imagine that, like the playing cards that have different pictures depending on which way you look at em.

Actually I've seen gear like that before only backwards. On old sandy cracks the gear starts out looking like shitty fiddly rps in the side of the crack, then I put on my special lactic glasses & they start to evolve into bomber wires & truck-holding cams, & by the time I reach the rusty blob of shit bashed in at the top, I have to shake my head at how truly over engineered anchors were back in the day!
f_ladou
25/04/2010
10:27:51 AM
Shaz and I did the "Sublime and the Beautiful" last weekend. We took it easy on the way down from Sublime Point Lookout as Shaz' ankle was still tender but found the starting point rapidly: veer off the access track to "Sweet Dreams" before reaching the via-ferrata section and follow the steel rung ladder and fixed ropes up to the beautiful orange "Bentrovarto Wall". Go to the right hand corner and you will see the shiny new bolts of S&B raising diagonally up, left to right. The first clip is really high. Really. Stick clip it if you can or otherwise, do like Shaz, and terrorise your belay partner.

The first pitch (20m, 18), I found excellent if a tad difficult for the grade. Shaz took care of that one, no probs. She also tackled the second pitch (35m, 22) which certainly deserve to be referred to as "the money pitch" in the online guidebook. The difficulty lies in a long and blank section (Shaz: "right, another blank-a-thon" coming up!") spanning two or three clips. That being said, the route is very well protected.

Being a gentleman, I offerred Shaz the last pitch as well (ok, ok, I was pumped after seconding that second pitch). Although graded at 20, it is certainly no more difficult that the first pitch -- at least not as technical. Perhaps the really exciting exposure as one moves onto the arête accounts for the grading? What do you think, Shaz?

So, if you have a day to spare, go and check out "Bentrovarto Wall" where a dozen new routes and hundreds of shiny new bolts are just waiting for you. I know I'll go back soon.

Cheers, François

P.S. And thanks to the guys: Jason Lammers, Steven Ahern and Ado Childs for putting the route up!

nmonteith
26/04/2010
7:16:01 PM
I finally got around to doing Sublime and the Beautiful today. It was really nice! The 2nd pitch has some stellar thin climbing. I linked pitches 1 & 2 together in one giant 50m pitch which actually didn't create as much drag as I thought it would. The hanging belay was a bit crap though - so I think its better to link 2 and 3 together instead if you enjoy marathon climbing. Nice work Bundy - the bolts were all the right places for me... :-)

BundyBear
27/04/2010
11:26:44 AM
Sweet. Glad you guys enjoyed S&B. Is 22 around the right grade for the 2nd pitch ??


nmonteith
27/04/2010
11:43:10 AM
On 27/04/2010 BundyBear wrote:
>Sweet. Glad you guys enjoyed S&B. Is 22 around the right grade for the
>2nd pitch ??

22 seems right to me. I got the onsight with no chalk on any holds - and its a style i generally suck at - so its certainly not 23 or harder. Maybe.
f_ladou
27/04/2010
1:39:46 PM
On 27/04/2010 BundyBear wrote:
>Sweet. Glad you guys enjoyed S&B. Is 22 around the right grade for the
>2nd pitch ??
>

Well, unlike Neil, I didn't get it on-sight as the blank-ish section got me guessing for too long. Having done a few multipitch routes at that level recently (Yesterday's Groove, Rutger Hauer, Lief Ericsson), I'd say that 22 is a fair call.

That being said, I did "The Plunge" (40m, 22) at Mount Piddington yesterday: it makes P2 of S&B like a stroll in the park.

Go figure.

François
one day hero
27/04/2010
3:14:06 PM
On 27/04/2010 f_ladou wrote:
>
>Go figure.


Old routes (and granite routes) are given real grades. New routes are generally soft as shite!

Figuring complete.
jono_1
27/04/2010
9:30:21 PM
And routes bolted in the 90s and rebolted in the 00s with twice as many bolts are even softer than shite.
One Day Hero
27/04/2010
9:44:45 PM
Jonnnnooo, wassup? Are you and the missus climbing much? I've cracked it with all the overgraded fag routes on sandstone, have been driving up from the gong to climb on granite. Are you guys headed to Jervis any time soon?
f_ladou
30/12/2010
2:31:42 PM
Hi guys,

Just a couple of fun pictures taken yesterday on our outing to redo "The Sublime and the Beautiful" at Bentrovarto Wall. It really is a fun climb and can be done entirely in the shade as the sun hits that section of the wall around 13:00 these days. So three pitches (18, 22, 20), some challenging thin face climbing on the 2nd pitch and some real exposure on the 2nd and 3rd pitch. What are you guys waiting for? Cheers, François

Tip: finish the climb belaying from the tree three meters or so above the last double-ring bolt belay. That'll save you from a top-out on blood-curling iron-stone lace...


Dominik seconding the first pitch: starts in the corner and diagonally up.


Myself, resting on the arête on the second pitch after the crux a little lower on the face itself.

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There are 72 messages in this topic.

 

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