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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
Author
New toy at Sublime Point

tnd
6/04/2009
3:00:46 PM
I'm not a fan of the carrot these days, but it's up to the route developer to equip a route as they see fit (egegiously unsuitable solutions like compression bolts excepted). There are plenty of ring bolt routes around if you want them.

And as a friend of mine once opined..."you've got to earn ring bolts by climbing harder". ;-)

tnd
6/04/2009
3:08:02 PM
On 6/04/2009 evanbb wrote:
>On 6/04/2009 BundyBear wrote:
>>This one is another one from the same route author http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?pag
>
>>id=10&action=route&route_id=13945. Its all rings so go 4 it...
>
>Fark Bundy, that looks like fun. Where's Bellbird Wall? I know Mt Hay
>pretty well, I thought...

It's at Pulpit Rock, not Mt Hay. Specifically equipped with (lots of) ring bolts to give lower grade climbers the opportunity to climb that style in safety but still with that "adventure" feel. This will no doubt be anathema to the chest-beaters on Chockstone.

It may affront you Evan, it features one or two ring-bolts close to trad placements. Be warned. ;-)

nmonteith
6/04/2009
4:01:19 PM
Homemade stainless glue-in ubolts are cheaper to place than glue in stainless carrots - probably by a factor of 2 at least.

People placing carrots are doing it for so-called 'ethical' reasons (maintain aussie traditions, low impact, keeping it old school). It's not about the cost.

rodw
6/04/2009
4:51:36 PM
On 6/04/2009 sportmonkey1 wrote:
>So i take it that because they put a lot into the general climbing community
>that you can't ask questions or make comments about what they do!

You can ask question but by starting to calling someone arogant, dont expect people to be nice back. :)

Im all for rings (I myself never place carrots) but they aint the only thing to put in...the area the new route is in is generally carrots/mixed anyway so it in line with them...on top of that if you have a problem with "fiddling" a few bolt plates on...maybe a multi pitch sport route is not something you should be attempting.

Btw there is lots of virgin rock in the blueys if you want to start creating your own mega classic multi pitched ringed clip ups...no ones stopping ya.
sportmonkey1
6/04/2009
5:29:48 PM
>
>Im all for rings (I myself never place carrots)
>but they aint the only
thing to put in...the area the new route is in is generally carrots/mixed
>anyway so it in line with them..
The new route is in area that has seen little or no development for 30years. Should we only continue on with the style that was in vogue all those years ago.
.
>"on top of that if you have a problem with fiddling" a few bolt plates on...maybe a multi pitch sport route is not
>something you should be attempting.
So its ok for someone of my climbing ability to "fiddle" bolt plates onto the stupid things. My point is that the bolters of this route will bolt routes at higher grades and closer to their upper level of their ability with rings because they dont like "fiddling" bolt plates on. But its ok for people who are climbing slightly above 19 to "fiddle" them on.
>
>Btw there is lots of virgin rock in the blueys if you want to start creating
>your own mega classic multi pitched ringed clip ups...no ones stopping
>ya.

nmonteith
6/04/2009
5:39:08 PM
You have a very valid point sportmonkey1. I know i have used carrots on easy routes for that very reason. However in this case, you would be wrong. Mikl bashes in crap carrots on hard routes as well!
devlin66
6/04/2009
6:31:53 PM
I hate carrots, so I understand the 'venom' or frustration of Boris's first post. I also understand the reason why some people prefer to put SS glue in carrots. I don't agree with it and after all the discussions about using the right gear for the job I fail to see why they are still used.
madtaffy1
6/04/2009
6:47:33 PM
So does anyone want to stop crapping on about carrots v rings and go climb this route Weds?
sportmonkey1
6/04/2009
7:11:12 PM
carrots or not this route already has classic written all over it. i would get in early on this one as i think it will a rare occasion when there is no one on it. just watch out for falling bolt plates dropped by the fiddlers.
cogsy
6/04/2009
8:41:58 PM
This is very silly! Jules just bolted with carrots because that's what he's got.... I know he has a big pile of nice stainless carrots in his shed, and really, they are just fine as bolts. It's not like they're going to come out of the cliff if you sneeze the wrong way!!
When he runs out of those old things, I'll give him a bunch of steel and he can start making U's for half the price (about a dollar each... stainless carrots are about $2). The U's he used on his pitches are nice new ones that I bent a couple of weeks ago and gave the deluxe notching treatment to...ie about 10 minutes of obsessive notching per bolt.
Anyway, we should be raving about the route, rather than the bolts, and with a pair of fat old bumblies like Jules and Mikl, I'm sure it's a big chossy pile of sandy adventure... sounds like a great afternoon out!!
julian.A
7/04/2009
6:33:39 AM

I love it !.. Nothing like some bolting ethics to help get the word out.

By the way - Mikl bolted the first pitch on rings. I bolted the rest on carrots because that is what I had at the time, and because I felt that was suitable. Oh, there are about 8 fixed hangers on the "hard" bits.

Thanks for putting your nuts on the table sportmonkey1, and for the ego boost - but ask around. Unfortunatly 19 is not far from my max grade - especially at the moment.
I think you will find I've bolted a few multi pitch routes easier than 19 all on rings.

If anyone wants to go and rebolt it on ring, be my guest - just don't retro bolt it, which would be continueing in the tradition of Sublime Point ( there were never any bolts on the FA of Sweet Dreams).




tnd
7/04/2009
9:52:34 AM
Good on you Julian, especially for beating Mikl to a worthwhile line!

Re: Sweet Dreams, Bryden was amazed when told how many bolts there are now. It doesn't even follow his original line across the traverse.
mikepatt
7/04/2009
10:00:10 AM
Cheers All for another route on my 'to do' list.
I don't mind 'carrots' and considering the traffic Bunny Buckets Buttress gets, neither do the masses.
madtaffy1
7/04/2009
5:49:30 PM
Still looking for a partner to do this route tomorrow (weds). Anyone keen?
mikl law
7/04/2009
8:34:27 PM
doesn't really matter whether it's rings, carrots,or trad does it? If you're a climber, you climb things. When did everyone get so picky?

P 2 and P3 had some very delcate bits as yuo traversed out over space, just when you really felt like hauling on jugs.

And there is "the fickle finger of fate" above the second belay that you are sure you are going to step on, but then won't.....
Olbert
7/04/2009
8:55:03 PM
On 7/04/2009 madtaffy1 wrote:
>Still looking for a partner to do this route tomorrow (weds). Anyone keen?

yes yes pick me im keen. i'll pm you
SummitSlag
8/04/2009
3:37:49 PM
SportMonkey1 im backing you dude allthough i climb grade 25s and prefer rings anyday. i myself have never dropped a bolt plate ever but, im not the problem its the other people i take on these climbs with me.
i keep 20 bolt plates on my rack no matter how or with who i manage to lose them either by my partner leaving them on the rock thinking it was a fixed hanger,by dropping the thing or by simply forgeting to remove them or just plain and simple misplacing them in somone elses chalk bag.

i remember once climbing west face with a mate that climbs 23s. i lead the whole thing because of his fear of heights and exposure among other things, i know on the first pitch i placed atleast 7 bolt plates yet when he handed them over to me at the belay there was some already missing a asked him where the others went his reply was i didnt think they came off..
long story he went back down to get them and dropped all three that i was missing. i understand this was a simple mistake on his behalf he offered to pay for them i said said dont worry about it it was an accident. this has happened more than once being a multi pitch or a simple climb at medlow or mt york with many different people.

i think over the years i have spent atleast a couple hundred dollars replacing lost bolt plates. money which i think would be muchly appricated by the bolting fund if only there was someway that i could ensure they put rings in instead.....
And in saying this, i too was let down when i found that the new climb was bolted in the oldschool style.....
what a pity.....
climberman
8/04/2009
3:49:38 PM
On 7/04/2009 mikl law wrote:
>doesn't really matter whether it's rings, carrots,or trad does it? If you're
>a climber, you climb things. When did everyone get so picky?

I think it was May 1999.

"Vy can't ve jusht climb?"
madtaffy1
8/04/2009
4:59:18 PM
Olbert came good and we just did the route. Pretty exciting, plenty of loose stuff but with traffic will be a classic. Some moves on all the pitches will get easier and some harder as the holds clean up. Had no problem with the glue in carrots, rings or fixed hangars!
Under 3 hours car to car so we went down and had a lap on Sweet Dreams and were back in a couple of hours. That route is a classic.
Cheers Mikl, Jules and Ness. Nice work!
Anyone know what the routes are in the middle of the wall up the top? Some rings have 'biners on them? Any info or is it work in progress?
Ther are also two routes on a little wall on the left as you walk down the access track. Some rings and some glue in carrots. Any info on these?

Macciza
8/04/2009
5:04:26 PM
> i too was let down when i found that the new climb was bolted in the oldschool style.....
> what a pity.....

Yeah, let's get modern like the Euros and have permanently placed draws as well,
And Mikl could you leave a 50m rope at the base as well as mine is only a 30m sport rope ;~}
Honestly, rings are a much over-rated 'convenience' in most climbing, kinda like drive-thrus . . .
Or like the many 'easy-make' coffee machines the city-crew are so keen on . . .
Sometimes you have to do something for yourself, like placing protection, live with it . .
I'm wondering whether you will complain that my new trad-route lacks pre-placed gear . . .;~}


 Page 2 of 4. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 60 | 61 to 72
There are 72 messages in this topic.

 

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