Goto Chockstone Home

  Guide
  Gallery
  Tech Tips
  Articles
  Reviews
  Dictionary
  Links
  Forum
  Search
  About

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

  Shop

Edelrid: "Ultralight Helmet" (Red) Fits 54 - 60cm Great heavy duty all-rounder. SUPER SPECIAL for a short time only!  $79.00
21% Off

Chockstone Photography Australian Landscape Photography by Michael Boniwell
Australian Landscape Prints





Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
Author
Mt Buffalo new routes @ Mackeys Lookout
jgoding
30/01/2008
8:28:22 AM
Good Morning,

here is a very brief write up of some new routes established over the long weekend at Mackeys lookout (10min walk in with beautiful stream you can enjoy on a hot day). A beautiful cliff. Topo available if you just want to e-mail me with a request. I can send you a 900k jpeg version or 4.3meg high res PDF. Thanks to all who contributed to the equipping work and costs.

Be aware that the previously established routes are all very bold. Unless you are a highly competent climber who enjoys the thrill of running it out I would only recommend these new routes:

A fundamental difference of opinion
P1) 42m 16*: Start at small curving ledge (DBB). Sustained enjoyable face climbing on thin rails. Follow the white streak past 8 BR crossing large flakes at 3/4 height. 5m below belay scoop traverse right along break to weakness on right. FA Josef Goding, Nicholas Allan, Michael Milne 28.01.2008 *Need 10 x bolt plates.
P2) 55m 15** Start at lovely belay scoop (DBB with double captive rap rings). Up prominent white streak, directly above belay. Very thin, balancy, and sustained. Would be easier if cool or in overcast conditions. DBB with link chain and single captive rap ring. FA Michael Milnes, Josef Goding, Nicholas Allan 28.01.2008 *all glue in ring bolts.
P3) 25m 7: Straight up from belay crossing small overlap. 2 glue in ring bolts. Ends at DBB (each with captive rap ring) on easy to get to large boulder at top of cliff, roughly level with the waterfall where it briefly goes vertical.

No Ego
Starts roughly 6m to the right (facing the cliff) of the first pitch of A fundamental difference of opinion, which is also the same belay as for the top of the 1st pitch of dry weather road (Which belayed here using the single mild steel bolt). Up rib (first bolt has fixed D shackle and bolt plate) passing white slab, moving below and right of small tree. Tend left up to belay. 8 bolts on route (all with fixed hangers). DBB with single captive ring on each. FA Nicholas Allan, Josef Goding, Michael Milnes. 28.01.2008

nmonteith
30/01/2008
9:49:40 AM
I like the first ascent names! Needed to get something off your chest did you Joe? ;-)
jgoding
30/01/2008
12:33:07 PM
Yes we feel passionately about the duty of care and the nature of the protection that is considered as
part of the first ascent team. That has been passed on in a private forum.

PS here is an updated route description (& Name) from Nic Allan:

No Ego
40m 16* Starts roughly 6m to the right (facing the cliff) of the first pitch
of A fundamental difference of opinion, which is also the same belay as for
the top of the 1st pitch of dry weather road (which belayed here using the
single mild steel bolt). Up rib (first bolt has fixed D shackle and bolt
plate) passing white slab, moving below and right of small tree. Then
straight up for approximately 5-8m then tend left and up to belay. 8 bolts
on route (all with fixed hangers). DBB with single captive ring on each. FA
Nicholas Allan, Josef Goding, Michael Milnes. 28.01.2008



k
30/01/2008
4:11:29 PM
Is that the royal 'we'? No ego indeed.
surfinclimb
30/01/2008
7:35:51 PM
On 30/01/2008 k wrote:
>Is that the royal 'we'? No ego indeed.

No, No "K". That is the royal "wee" We quite openly take the piss out of ourselves.
jgoding
31/01/2008
8:20:02 PM
PS topo and route descriptions are now available on the ACA website:
http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=1192
jgoding
18/03/2008
10:50:18 PM
Hi,

the new routes are now shown better on the ACA website if anyone's interested in checking out Mackey's lookout.

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=26&crag_id=415

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/03/2008
9:37:30 AM
Thanks for posting the link jgoding, and also for the hard work put into documenting these things.
Paz
31/05/2011
10:10:32 PM
Woke to an incredible morning in the Gorge last week, clouds lining the valley for as far as you could see, perfect temperature and friction, how could anything be amiss in such a place?


I hadn't seen the write up for these "routes" on climb.org or here, and didn't know what I was staring at on the rap down (now know it's 'Fundamental difference of Opinion' pitch 2). What a fitting title. Similarly with "No Ego", there seems to be a lot of ego on display here....What's jgoding say at the top of this thread, "Unless you are a highly competent climber who enjoys the thrill of running it out I would only recommend these new routes." hmmmmmm.....what was that route name again?

According to the Buff guide there's nothing there. Instead what's there is really, really sad. You may as well hang flags off all the U-bolts they're that obvious. It's like someone's invited Denzel Washington to an Aryan meeting. I have no issue with such a "line" being (over)bolted. However these f-ckers deteriorate from the complete experience of such a crag and the surrounding climbs.
Did the first ascentionists think the line was worth so little they didn't bother using carrots? Or were they saying something with their "No Ego"? It's not even that it's so overbolted it's ridiculous, maybe 10- 12 bolts in 50 metres with no chance ever of hitting anything, and the slabs so polished you're not even going to get a grating. It's the choice of bolts. WHY?!

Half the enjoyment of slab climbing at a place like Buff is fumbling for some bolt plates, trying to eye a shimmer of metal among a sea of granite to see where the next pro is. This climb has absolutely nothing going for it apart from a severe case of hemorrhoids.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
31/05/2011
10:35:42 PM
On 31/05/2011 Paz wrote:
>how could anything be amiss in such a place?
(snip)
>According to the Buff guide there's nothing there. Instead what's there
>is really, really sad. You may as well hang flags off all the U-bolts they're
>that obvious. It's like someone's invited Denzel Washington to an Aryan
>meeting. I have no issue with such a "line" being (over)bolted. However
>these f-ckers deteriorate from the complete experience of such a crag and
>the surrounding climbs.
(snip)

You might be interested in looking at this thread where your concern has been raised before, not only in relation to the title of the thread, but also specifically for the climbs that you mention... ~> there was quite a bit of debate at the time.
Paz
31/05/2011
11:42:17 PM
Ahha, cheers....i searched, albeit not well. So it sounds like not too (two?) many people'd mind if those sick puppies were put down....

Fish Boy
1/06/2011
11:59:51 AM
rings, not u bolts...who would win in a fight, geoff or joe?
satan
1/06/2011
1:42:37 PM
Nice Abbotism there Fishboy, concentrate on the minor issue and the big things will take care of themself.

My money's on Geoff.
Fish Boy
2/06/2011
8:17:34 AM
Wrong satan, there are 2 issues here. 1st, the manner in which the bolts are placed and 2nd the type of bolt. Rings have never been sunk at Buff before.

nmonteith
2/06/2011
8:25:40 AM
On 2/06/2011 Fish Boy wrote:
>Rings have never been sunk at Buff
>before.

What about Ring A Ding Ding which was put up in the early 1990s?

ajfclark
Online Now
2/06/2011
9:42:20 AM
On 2/06/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>What about Ring A Ding Ding which was put up in the early 1990s?

Doesn't Dead Ringers have some form of ring on it too? I remember Malcolm mentioning something about the bolts on that...

nmonteith
2/06/2011
9:43:23 AM
On 2/06/2011 ajfclark wrote:
>Doesn't Dead Ringers have some form of ring on it too? I remember Malcolm
>mentioning something about the bolts on that...

Yes. That was actually the route I was thinking of... the bolts were placed by a mystery person and Malcolm just did the first recorded ascent I think?

ajfclark
Online Now
2/06/2011
9:49:11 AM
On 2/06/2011 nmonteith wrote:
>Yes. That was actually the route I was thinking of... the bolts were placed by a mystery person and Malcolm just did the first recorded ascent I think?

I was driving while he told the story so I can't recall it word for word, but I'm pretty sure Ferret (maybe?) knew who bolted it and told some porkies to get Malcolm on it. From memory they aren't ring bolts but some form of expansion with an eye on it. I keep meaning to have a look at it (from the base, Malcolm's story of the final moves doesn't make me want to do it at all).

Interestingly, being in a car doesn't stop him miming the moves of a route as he tells the story.
Fish Boy
2/06/2011
10:06:31 AM
my apologies, thanks 4 the correction. Will, which fixed hangers are next to cracks? I can think of several belay bolts like this but lead pro? End of pitch 7? Pitch 1 has one that is skippable...
jgoding
2/06/2011
12:23:29 PM
If anyone would seriously like to discuss any of the new routes I have been involved in establishing give me a ring on 0404 625 487.

I won't discuss it in this kind of forum as things are taken way out of context and often people expressing views here have very limited knowledge of the context, or subject.

I don't believe that overblown uneducated slander helps the climbing community in any way shape or form. These pages are read by a lot more than just climbers.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 25
There are 25 messages in this topic.

 

Home | Guide | Gallery | Tech Tips | Articles | Reviews | Dictionary | Forum | Links | About | Search
Chockstone Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography

Please read the full disclaimer before using any information contained on these pages.



Australian Panoramic | Australian Coast | Australian Mountains | Australian Countryside | Australian Waterfalls | Australian Lakes | Australian Cities | Australian Macro | Australian Wildlife
Landscape Photo | Landscape Photography | Landscape Photography Australia | Fine Art Photography | Wilderness Photography | Nature Photo | Australian Landscape Photo | Stock Photography Australia | Landscape Photos | Panoramic Photos | Panoramic Photography Australia | Australian Landscape Photography | Mothers Day Gifts | Gifts for Mothers Day | Mothers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Mothers Day | Wedding Gift Ideas | Christmas Gift Ideas | Fathers Day Gifts | Gifts for Fathers Day | Fathers Day Gift Ideas | Ideas for Fathers Day | Landscape Prints | Landscape Poster | Limited Edition Prints | Panoramic Photo | Buy Posters | Poster Prints