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Nug Nug_Buffalo

jgoding

12-Feb-2007
9:58:27 PM

Howdy,

just thought you should know that we have found a very direct line and marked a new track into Nug Nug, which saves a lot of time. It took us 2hrs and 50mins to walk in on Saturday, but only 45mins to walk out, including a little time to re-mark one section that was slightly off-route, saving a few more minutes. On Sunday we walked in (having left our kit up there) and it took 1hr 10mins with just water and very light packs.

I would suggest the walk in time with normal packs full of stuff is still going to be around 2hrs but that's a whole lot better than what we found late last year when we went in, got horribly off route and took forever.

Two new routes were put up this weekend, and we also took some notes on the best aproach. Please make sure you call the local land owners rather than just barge across their private property.

The best approach is from the bottom from the township of Nug Nug. Please note that the land below the cliff is actually private land. I have met the land owners (19.11.2006, 28.01.2007) and they are very happy to have walkers or climbers cross their land so long as they clearly identify themselves first. You can ring Ian and Clare Black on (03) 5754 2224. They live at the house at the far end of Jurisichs Road (approx GR 746 424) (there are no houses marked on the map). Best map is 8224-4-S ( Myrtleford South).

From Myrtleford these directions should get you there:

In the middle of Myrtleford turn right onto Lake Buffalo Road (C526) ***Reset your odometer here*** . At 13km down this road just before McGaffies Bridge turn left into Nug Nug Road. At 14km turn left (unsigned fork) and left again shortly after onto Jurisichs Road (no through road). At 15.6km at hard right bend take left into 2nd private property driveway (not 167). Past power line 12E. After 16km turn left onto steep rough track. 16.2km PSA (Pass straight ahead) right hand turn. At 16.8km turn right at top of 4WD track, over running creek (take care here as it is very rocky – you might need to add a few rocks to avoid your car being horribly scratched underneath!) at 17.2km turn right (downhill) onto vague track. 100m down this you will find a gully on your left which makes a good camping site (just keep an eye out overhead for any potential trees and falling limbs!).

The Walk In:
Continue south along upper 4WD track (just above the camp site) and cross a boggy creek, then shortly thereafter a dry creek bed. About 50m past here you should see yellow tape on the ridge line. Follow this all the way to the cliff, which should take you 2hrs & 50mins if you have a full rack, drill, rope etc. If you don’t have all this you might make it up in half the time as the walking is very steep.

Good walking boots highly recommended as the terrain is very loose after the recent (Jan 2007) fires tore through here and destroyed all the undergrowth.

The Routes:

The Pioneer 120m 15
Since when was pioneering ever pretty? Not recommended. Starts where the walking track hits the cliff, at a large gum tree (which has the side facing the cliff burnt up to about 2m). 1) 45m 15 Up right leading scoop past FH and DBB to slab. Past FH up and right to heavily vegetated corner. Directly up corner using some crappy small bushes for runners until you reach the broken flake/corner and some better pro about 10m up, with a decent tree just above it. Above this small ledge is a larger tree to belay off (and some other natural gear below it). 2) 45m 15 directly up through the bushes to right leading ledge system (no pro here) to bushes. Up easily large flake (big cams) to right hand side (small cam). Up slab past BR to DBB/rap station. FA Josef Goding, Naomi Gibbs 10.02.2007

Crystal Dancer 120m 15*
Fantastic sustained face climbing on good rock with good pro. 1) 20m 15 Starts as for The Pioneer but head right past FH when you get to the vegetated trench/gully delicately to DBB/rap station. 2) 45m 15* straight up past 6 BR to ledge. Through bushes to flake and finish as for The Pioneer P2. 3) 40m 12* straight up slab past 4FH and some natural gear to finish at right end of slab where DBB/rap station is. FA Josef Goding (1,3), Naomi Gibbs (2) 12.02.2007

We are planning a trip in there for the 24/25 Feb if anyone wants a guided tour, let me know.

Ciao,

Joe


nmonteith

13-Feb-2007
10:07:45 AM

When's this crag in the shade Joe?

kieranl

13-Feb-2007
12:15:41 PM

On 13/02/2007 nmonteith wrote:
>When's this crag in the shade Joe?
During the walk-in

jgoding

13-Feb-2007
6:41:10 PM

The lower crag (being easier angled) comes into the sun a little eariler than the upper bits, so if you leave early, like we did on Sunday and carry very light packs you can be on the rock just before the sun hits it.

The upper areas are basically in sun from around midday - so you will be in sun for the afternoon for sure. Probably good on cooler days when you want the sun, not a stinking hot 35 degree day!

Check out this site when you have a moment. The second photo from the top (taken from an ultralight in 2005) was taken at around 11am so this should give you a feel for what's in the sun and what's not at that time of day.

http://www.climb.org.au/index.php?page=27&area_id=790

Kieran - might you consider a trip?

chris

13-Feb-2007
10:20:38 PM

Man, is that a 300metre granite slab! Eooeeughh!! (shudder).
Thank god I live in NSW!!! :)

drdeviousii

14-Feb-2007
8:58:40 AM

dude you're worse than the pansies whinging about crack routes. if you can't harden the fk up then just stay in your little NSW box.

dalai

14-Feb-2007
9:15:52 AM

I'm guessing your humour gene was removed prior to birth drdeviousii? Lighten up mate!! ;-)

Joe, you might have to work a bit harder selling your new crag! Suntrap and 2 + hour walk in sounds just the thing for February...


cruze

14-Feb-2007
9:35:19 AM

What about (and if it is anything like what happened in the ACT post fires):

Get in now before the head high regrowth buries the track!

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