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Mt Stanley Sunday 20th

Paulie

22-Aug-2006
7:04:25 PM

Well it wasn't quite as warm as it was forecast to be but still a cracker nontheless.

Ended up doing quite a few routes including everything in Grendel Corner (5 routes), Talon (15), Is that a lightsabre in your pocket? (23), the 2 arete routes on Lower Talon Block (12/12), Right Route (17). Following are some photos.

Andrew Porter on one of the nicest lines in Grendel Corner - very stiff at 18, probably more like 19. Very thin fingers but good feet to start then a very cruxy move to get into the 1st flared (insecure) jamb which leads to a bomber jamb with the top following shortly thereafter.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=51278
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=51279

Andrew Porter this time getting a spot for the start of a grade 16 route to the left of Grendel. Thin, steep and balancy to start leading to big edges and a nice top out move on gear.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=51277

Stephen Gordon starting the grade 20 arete route. Steep and technical past 2 bolts - this route's saving grace is that it's only 9mtrs long.
http://www.ukclimbing.com/images/dbpage.html?id=51280

Paul

gordoste

23-Aug-2006
2:58:22 PM

Nice pics Paul! Just so everybody knows, that 20 was way too hard for me and I ended up finish up the grade 8 :)

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