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Grampians Mini Weekend


kezza

6-Sep-2005
3:40:11 PM

I do agree with you Dalai, my comment was more intended for when you are at the crag. There is a proper way of going about commenting on the bolting efforts. Clearly whilst at the crag we can't fix the actual problem, but we can get around it. Ranting endlessly won't get anything done, except ruin a potential fantastic day. The best way, to my knowledge, to get these possible dangerous bolts fixed is to get in contact with SCV and take it from there.
I just hope we can all use a bit of common sense and not think just because it's bolted, means it will definately keep my arse off the ground if I fall. Weigh up the consequences as you would do on trad.

Climbing IS Dangerous! Keep your wits about you, whilst out there climbing.


nmonteith

6-Sep-2005
3:45:14 PM

You are speaking great truths Kezza! Others could learn from your positive attitude!

I know who these complaining guys are - they are mates so I find it quite amusing! I am sure I have
ranted about their own new routes in the past.


kezza

6-Sep-2005
3:50:14 PM

I'm sure they aren't the only climbers out there complaining either, but time and a place.
I'm not here to have a dig at them, but bolts are bolts, some are nicely placed, some not so nice.
Move on and enjoy the rest of the routes at such a beautiful crag in the Grampians.

I'm just happy to have more sport routes at a grade that I can have a play on..
Vic is moving up in the sporting world, it's great!

Great work to all those who have put in the hard hours and cash to make it possible. Let's hope there is more to come..


Super Saiyan

6-Sep-2005
3:58:53 PM

my god what have i started! Ive created a monster!!!!!

FOR THE RECORD- I dont agree or disagree with the placement of the bolt. I have not been on the route. I was simply commenting on having to listen to the complaining for most of the day. It was simply a remark. I enjoy climbing with positive people, it amps me up and motivates me to climb harder. I like a "can do" attitude. Complaining is not going to move the bolt.

6-Sep-2005
6:40:16 PM

On 6/09/2005 dalai wrote:
> It appears the second bolts placement was a compromise
>as Neil states to allow clipping from the traverse, and sounds like it
>would have been better placed near the crimp as KP suggests.

Nope, and nope! First, there's no way the crimps are 1 pad - they are all very average (less than half pad for my fingers which are smaller than KPs!), AND I had a second look/feel on the way back down when cleaning my draws off, also Neil commented about needing good crimp strength to even use them! It is probably relevant that the lads who repeated the route on the weekend are capable of 28ish vertical faces on their day so for them maybe these crimps felt fine. OTOH while I can crimp harder than 22 I remain firmly of the opinion that the crimps are not clipping holds.

Second, trying to fit in with the possible future variant was a very minor consideration - the primary issue was what should be the clipping hold.

Then again, don't know why I'm defending Mike cause he's still the villain in all this .... he stole the route, didn't even lug the gear up there, and still hasn't coughed up a penny for the hardware!! (I have a long memory Mikey me lad!)

robin

6-Sep-2005
6:47:11 PM

Firstly, the comments we made were private conversation and we are entiltled to our opinions. Obsessedclimber and Kezza arrived about two hours after we got there and chose to climb right beside us. If our conversation was such a problem perhaps they should have said something or climbed elsewhere. I'll also add that I am definitely not a silent whinger. I frequently throw up my opinions on Chockstone for (see Western Vic. guidebook update info) and regular pass on opinions and information to guide book editors.

Secondly as a bolter I appreciate that no matter what you do you will always get knockers. You either over bolt, under bolt, poorly position, should have used rings, should have used carrots etc. The fact of the matter is you don't always get it right and you'll never please everyone. We definitely appreciate the effort, money and time that has gone into bolting the routes but like I said, we are entitled to have opinions.

dalai

6-Sep-2005
6:56:18 PM

On 6/09/2005 WM wrote:
>On 6/09/2005 dalai wrote:
>> It appears the second bolts placement was a compromise
>>as Neil states to allow clipping from the traverse, and sounds like it
>>would have been better placed near the crimp as KP suggests.
>
>Nope, and nope!

Thanks for the clarification WM. Unfortunately I haven't had the good fortune to climb there.

Climbing does look good.


nmonteith

6-Sep-2005
7:10:52 PM

On 6/09/2005 robin wrote:
>Secondly as a bolter I appreciate that no matter what you do you will
>always get knockers. You either over bolt, under bolt, poorly position,
>should have used rings, should have used carrots etc. The fact of the
>matter is you don't always get it right and you'll never please everyone.
> We definitely appreciate the effort, money and time that has gone into
>bolting the routes but like I said, we are entitled to have opinions.

Yep, we can't win Robin!


kezza

7-Sep-2005
12:07:22 AM

Wow, Okay.. The original post only mentioned the bolt bagging briefly, which is all it was.. I think we can be grown up about this and continue with our lives. I dont want to continue this, but we did throw the suggestion of a longer draw in the convo there and we didn't hang out at BMR Wall all day.. Sheesh!

Moving on now perhaps?! (Just a suggestion)

Oh and P.S The trip to the Gramps was awesome!! Although not ticking Stepping on Snakes was a bit of a bummer :-(
But there is ALWAYS a next time hehe!

Climb Safe

-Kerryn-

robin

7-Sep-2005
6:58:17 AM

For the record we quite enjoyed the company of Kezza and Obsessedclimber at the crag. I was just surprised and amused to cop a bagging when we got home.

SBW

7-Sep-2005
7:16:44 AM

wow , from our personal opinion to a large discussion . Thanks WM for clarifying the bolt position still a good climb though !


Super Saiyan

7-Sep-2005
7:42:21 AM

Yeah stepping on snakes is becoming quite the nemisis route for both of us!

I tagged the last hold on the weekend, but didnt have much chop on it, and couldnt get anymore. shattered! i can finally move on to De La Soul when i tick it!!! De La Soul is a much easier route for me, maybe its my style or something, i dunno

dalai

7-Sep-2005
10:02:27 AM

On 7/09/2005 SBW wrote:
>wow , from our personal opinion to a large discussion .

The joys of the internet Steve...

robin

8-Sep-2005
6:35:22 PM

Yes Dalai, the joys of internet. I had the good fortune to catch up with Kez & Obsessedclimber at the gym last night. One minute of face to face conversation resolved hours of internet brawling.

Regarding the bolt, we would have preferred to raise the issue more subtly with the first ascentionist ourselves. They are afterall our friends and sometimes climbing partners. It was good to hear Wills' perspective.

As is often the case this issue has spiraled out of proportion but I do think a lot of valid points have been raised.

There are 34 messages in this topic.