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Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
Author
Ozymandias trip report (on Supertopo)...
jakob
3-Apr-2017
11:11:27 AM
>>On 30/03/2017 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:

>~> Make of it what you will; but I am of the opinion that deuce4 has downgraded
>it by calling it C3, as in my opinion 'C' grades are generally harder than
>the original USA 'A' grades and I was of the belief that Ozy/Direct generally
>equated to A3 for grade (but am not sure at this present time where I got
>that opinion from!!, though an old article in Rock Magazine on Ozy rings
>vague memory bells...).

So in the US system, "C" grades represent clean ascents, i.e. no hammer. If you are using nuts, cams, cam hooks, other hooks this is a clean ascent.

"A" represents aided ascents using a hammer and pitons, rurps, beaks, blades etc.

The number represents consequence of fall, not difficulty. C1/A1 is all pieces are fall rated, C2/A2 is there are occasional body weight only pieces, C3/A3 is multiple body weight in a row, fall would result in ripping 6-8 pieces and result in injury. C4/A4 is big falls and serious injury. C5/A5 is the controversial rating that a fall should result in death because the entire climb is basically body weight only pieces, some argue this even has to include the belay such that a true A5 fall should result in both the climber and belayer dying, others say this is "A6".

So, Duece4 by stating it was C3 was basically saying that he did it all clean without a hammer, and there were sections where there were sections of multiple body weight only placements (including camhooks cause you remove them), but where the falls would be safe.

I think M5 roughly converts over to around C3 ish.

http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Ratings.html

Duang Daunk
3-Apr-2017
3:07:50 PM
Good to hear that you are back on the big stones bro deuce4, and I enjoyed reading your report of it.

One question if I may.
How much stipend did bro simes require for his service for you, as he's been neglecting his duties around here lately and we were about to cut his stipend accordingly.
I ask because our concerned action won't mean much if you've set him up for the foreseeable future.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
3-Apr-2017
8:42:40 PM
On 31/03/2017 widewetandslippery wrote:
>rod we all know you're soft. me and the wombat have a bungles trip on the go.
>maybe you an john or mentzy could hook up for a big trip, if not a 3some can work.

You want me, a soft old fart, to accompany you as a third on your 'bungles trip? Presumably at Easter for a (your) re-match with Caucus' Corner; and when every climber and their bunny goes to the 'bungles?
Tempting as it is you should have contacted me earlier as unfortunately I'm pre-booked already for then, however if you can convince deuce4 to go then I'll try to re-organise my schedule, as the major roof on that line needs an (likely to be aid) ascent!!






On 3/04/2017 jakob wrote:
>So in the US system, (snip)

Thank you jakob for your input, and you have no doubt bought a smile to deuce4 if he reads that link!

As an aside, you might also find this old Chockstone thread discussing Aid Grades (amongst others), interesting reading.

Miguel75
4-Apr-2017
8:53:23 PM
On 3/04/2017 jakob wrote:
>>>On 30/03/2017 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>>~> Make of it what you will; but I am of the opinion that deuce4 has
>downgraded
>>it by calling it C3, as in my opinion 'C' grades are generally harder
>than
>>the original USA 'A' grades and I was of the belief that Ozy/Direct generally
>>equated to A3 for grade (but am not sure at this present time where I
>got
>>that opinion from!!, though an old article in Rock Magazine on Ozy rings
>>vague memory bells...).
>
>So in the US system, "C" grades represent clean ascents, i.e. no hammer.
>If you are using nuts, cams, cam hooks, other hooks this is a clean ascent.
>
>
>"A" represents aided ascents using a hammer and pitons, rurps, beaks,
>blades etc.
>
>The number represents consequence of fall, not difficulty. C1/A1 is all
>pieces are fall rated, C2/A2 is there are occasional body weight only pieces,
>C3/A3 is multiple body weight in a row, fall would result in ripping 6-8
>pieces and result in injury. C4/A4 is big falls and serious injury. C5/A5
>is the controversial rating that a fall should result in death because
>the entire climb is basically body weight only pieces, some argue this
>even has to include the belay such that a true A5 fall should result in
>both the climber and belayer dying, others say this is "A6".
>
>So, Duece4 by stating it was C3 was basically saying that he did it all
>clean without a hammer, and there were sections where there were sections
>of multiple body weight only placements (including camhooks cause you remove
>them), but where the falls would be safe.
>
>I think M5 roughly converts over to around C3 ish.
>
>http://www.bigwalls.net/climb/Ratings.html

Jakob, I'm not sure if you're aware you're linking to Duece4's website...

Duece4 = John Middendorf = Finkle = Einhorn.....

https://youtu.be/6UQ7HoOJwfQ
widewetandslippery
4-Apr-2017
11:59:14 PM
rod, i think may is the date. we can always do something else thats silly

gnaguts
5-Apr-2017
10:06:49 AM
On 4/04/2017 widewetandslippery wrote:
>rod, i think may is the date. we can always do something else thats silly

Simes gonna B ur donkey
of burden?
Iz tha grog pack biggr than the rack?
Afta buyin it, Can U lot afford his stipend?
Will odius come outa retirement 2 join in tha festival?
Herd of pmz? U lot need2 get a room.
widewetandslippery
5-Apr-2017
11:51:53 AM
Gnagnuts, i have done beer runs down to the carpark before. Its not so bad. Wombat has a great photo of me in the hut loaded up with supplies

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 27
There are 27 messages in this topic.

 

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