Chockstone Forum

      Sponsored By
      ROCK
   HARDWARE

Chockstone Photography

Australian Landscape Prints

Chockstone Forum - Trip Reports

Tells Us About Your Latest Trip!

Author

Buffalo Aidfest - 21 & 22 November 2015.

Jayford4321

10-Nov-2015
5:27:48 PM

On 2/11/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>PI&M75-LG Rematch.

Caarn. Step up 2 tha mark an do Cloudy Queen,
Ya know ya want 2, but tha 75 fella might think othawise.


phillipivan

10-Nov-2015
5:36:41 PM

Of the hard routes at Buffalo, that one doesn't interest me at all.

Jayford4321

10-Nov-2015
5:40:47 PM

On 10/11/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>Of the hard routes at Buffalo, that one doesn't interest me at all.

Y may I ask?
Dos Copperhed Rd interest ya more?
An no, I don't see it going free any time soon, much as I Ncourage U 2 try.


phillipivan

10-Nov-2015
6:51:10 PM

Because a whole pitch of bat-hooking seems pretty darn contrived and uninspired; especially as the crux pitch (Though M9 tells me the real crux lies elsewhere on the route).

Copperhead road follows some actual features. I have no doubt I would be unable to free climb it.


Miguel75

10-Nov-2015
8:45:26 PM

I too have no interest in Clouded Queen as it seems way too scary on lead, and jugging a crazy pitch like that doesn't seem altogether too interesting.

However, I would definitely/probably aid The Pintle (LHV)

:)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

10-Nov-2015
8:53:42 PM

On 10/11/2015 Miguel75 wrote:
>I too have no interest in Clouded Queen as it seems way too scary on lead,
>and jugging a crazy pitch like that doesn't seem altogether too interesting.
>
Jugging any route while high on She Wall is interesting if for no other reason than the exposure alone, especially on a misty day when the void below opens and closes with the passing swirls...

>However, I would definitely/probably aid The Pintle (LHV)
>
>:)

I hear that Pintle LHV is way scary for the newer generations now that it has been restored back to original form...
;-)


Miguel75

10-Nov-2015
9:40:10 PM

On 10/11/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
SNIP

>I hear that Pintle LHV is way scary for the newer generations now that
>it has been restored back to original form...
>;-)

I really like the LHV though find the original, well at least the move from the LHV into the original (stepping right into the big crack) really fun... Then it gets boring until the final pitch.


IdratherbeclimbingM9

11-Nov-2015
8:04:47 AM

On 10/11/2015 Miguel75 wrote:
>the move from the LHV into the original (stepping right into the big crack) really fun...

Fun for those of the 7' tall tribe like yourself and pi, but for the likes of myself I'd describe it more as 'interesting', and for others more vertical-stature challenged, well-

Did you know that it originally had an aid bolt for a foot sling to assist that move? Peter Watling who placed it on the first ascent due to finding that move extremely sketchy in his tricouni nailed boots, later chopped his own bolt when doing a subsequent ascent; this after the advent of sticky rubber footwear (that he was now wearing), which makes it an easier proposition.

bones

11-Nov-2015
1:24:11 PM

On 18/09/2015 bones wrote:
>Sounds great! Tentative yes from me, Julie and Eleanor, but will confirm
>in a week or so

Unfortunately can't make it after all, home renovations won't wait..


MonkeyBoy

12-Nov-2015
5:20:13 PM

Snip
>
>Hmm. Now that November has arrived we might also need to think about booking
>campsite/s, though north walling it is the 'free' option.
>

Did anyone book some camping ?


miguel75

12-Nov-2015
5:53:46 PM

On 11/11/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>On 10/11/2015 Miguel75 wrote:
>>the move from the LHV into the original (stepping right into the big
>crack) really fun...
>
>Fun for those of the 7' tall tribe like yourself and pi, but for the likes
>of myself I'd describe it more as 'interesting', and for others more vertical-stature
>challenged, well-
>
>Did you know that it originally had an aid bolt for a foot sling to assist
>that move? Peter Watling who placed it on the first ascent due to finding
>that move extremely sketchy in his tricouni nailed boots, later chopped
>his own bolt when doing a subsequent ascent; this after the advent of sticky
>rubber footwear (that he was now wearing), which makes it an easier proposition.

I thought there used to be one there. I thought it had fallen out naturally so replaced it a fw months back. It should be easier for you next time M9...
heh x 3


IdratherbeclimbingM9

12-Nov-2015
8:42:16 PM

On 12/11/2015 miguel75 wrote:
>I thought there used to be one there. I thought it had fallen out naturally
>so replaced it a fw months back.(snip)
And you are now confusing retrobolting with aid climbing...
~> I think pi wants to get up LG quicker than that kind of game!
;-)

kieranl

12-Nov-2015
9:58:56 PM

I could lend M75 some cracknups to speed him on his way and ease his mind on LG.


Miguel75

12-Nov-2015
10:35:57 PM

On 12/11/2015 kieranl wrote:
>I could lend M75 some cracknups to speed him on his way and ease his mind
>on LG.

Thanks for the offer Kieran. I've plenty of cam hooks and PI has a number of tomahawks and they should work a treat on the pitches I'm leading. PI has all the fun pitches, bar the Fang, as that's a beast I'd like to tangle with;)


IdratherbeclimbingM9

13-Nov-2015
3:33:08 PM

On 12/11/2015 MonkeyBoy wrote:
>Did anyone book some camping ?

... I am about to do so now, since no-one else has replied.

Post edit:
I have booked Site 12 (our previous usual site).
This covers for up to 6 people* for period 1300 hrs Friday 20th to 1200 hrs Monday 22nd inclusive.

Non-refundable payment of $150 was required (and payed) in full...

If you arrive before me and anyone asks questions please quote them Itinerary No. 4918809 as per Booking Number 4734915.
If they still argue, show them a Crack'n'up or Talon Hook, etc, and tell them about the unspeakably scarey things that such items are capable of...
;-)

So no dirt-bagging this time you lot, as proportional share cost defrayment by those who turn up will be appreciated by my budget allocated to other things!

*If we are more than 6 in number the Ranger will have to work that out at the applicable time, but I am aware from past experience that there is nil charge for climbers camping out on the wall...
And yeah, the booking site also reckons;
>Additional vehicles cost $9.50 per vehicle, per site, per night.
... but once again, that will be up to the Ranger to sort out if they feel the need arises.

Even if the weather is looking likely to be crook I will go up for that period and use the time to simply relax and scope out new lines to do. If I know beforehand that the weather is going to be truly foul, then instead of a climbing related trip I will make it a mountain biking trip!


IdratherbeclimbingM9

13-Nov-2015
6:24:24 PM

On 10/11/2015 phillipivan wrote:
>Because a whole pitch of bat-hooking seems pretty darn contrived and uninspired;
>especially as the crux pitch (Though M9 tells me the real crux lies elsewhere on the route).
>
Yes lower down, but it isn't all bat-hooking...

http://www.chockstone.org/MtBuffalo/Members/RohanK/CloudedQueen2l.jpg

http://www.chockstone.org/MtBuffalo/Members/RohanK/CloudedQueen1l.jpg


MonkeyBoy

13-Nov-2015
7:12:54 PM

On 13/11/2015 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>
>I have booked Site 12 (our previous usual site), for 6 people for
>period 1300 hrs Friday 20th to 1200 hrs Monday 22nd inclusive.
>

Great. I will be there from Friday some time in the day. Pending weather and psych for getting on more climbs I am up for staying on a few more days after the weekend too if anyone's keen ?


IdratherbeclimbingM9

14-Nov-2015
10:42:19 AM

On the first post of this thread I wrote:
>I don't want to turn away any potential newbies to the lost arts,
... so I am now re-affirming this sentiment and if anyone new to aid climbing wants to attend, I guarantee that their needs will be met and they won't have to commit to the north wall (unless they want to), as there are plenty of other beginner friendly options available.

I am also starting to assemble/pack gear for the trip and to that end a roll-call at this stage will help with what I take to cover the needs of any new starters.

The attendee list so far consists of the following people to my knowledge;

phillipivan and Miguel75 (self sufficient for gear, with their objective being Lord Gumtree).

Monkeyboy and Dave_S (self sufficient for gear, and their objective Ozymandias Direct).

TimP and his family (self sufficient gear-wise, Inventor of the famous LittleHammer, and helpful backup for myself re attending to newbie aider needs. His objective is Country Road amongst other things. He and his family have pre-booked their own independent campsite).

davedave from north Qld (gear sufficient but with minimal aid experience, however keen to upskill).

euce (light-on for gear but 'keen as', and with objective being a night on Defender of The Faith).

Macciza (maybe?) A gear sufficient maestro who may have a soloing objective in mind??

Myself.

Any others??

(This post edited: To sort my confusion in light of Dave_S response (in following post) to my duplicating him! ☺)

Dave_S

14-Nov-2015
10:50:21 AM

Only one of me shall be in attendance, unless rapid advancements in cloning technology are made, and shall be climbing Ozy Direct with Monkeyboy. Have plenty of gear, may be able to lend out a few odds and ends like 90m static rope, spare Fifi, etc.

That said I am currently climbing in China and could feel compelled to stay here a little longer if the weather forecast for Buffalo turns out to be exceptionally bad!


MonkeyBoy

14-Nov-2015
2:28:06 PM

On 14/11/2015 Dave_S wrote:
>
>That said I am currently climbing in China and could feel compelled to
>stay here a little longer if the weather forecast for Buffalo turns out
>to be exceptionally bad!

Bah "! I hear Yangshuo is very nearly flooded at the moment anyway ?

If the weather stays good do you have an ETA back to Melb ?

There are 107 messages in this topic.