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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 3. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 40 | 41 to 57
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
All NSW (General) (General) (General)  

Author
potential new bouldering area in NW sydney

porkpie
15/05/2009
9:24:07 AM
Last summer I found a potential bouldering area in NW Sydney while at work. I went back and for day and did a few problems V1 - V3 and looked at some much harder lines aswell. I think there could be potential for 20-30 problems - many quite hard.

I was going to develop the area and then let the chockstones know but I have two young kids and a screaming wife so that remains a pipe dream. So if anyone is intresested head out there and let me know what you think and if you unearth any gems. I look forward to going back and getting on some nice established problems.

The crag is located of Bannerman Road, Glenhaven. Park outside the pony club then head into the bush just left of the dressage arena, down a faint track. The cliff is just here - an easy 3 minutes from the car.

The crag has some steep sections and some vertical areas, the rock is good quality though a little blank in places. Should clean up well. I think there would be a heap of other areas in that valley aswell.

Here are some pics from the one day I did out there.

http://www.flickr.com/photos/32342832@N08/3532369136/

Let me know what you think of the crag..

PS I found the Frontline crag at the Balkans in about 1995 and decided it was a pile. Later Rob Saunders, Tim O'niel and others developed that area into the best bouldering area in Sydney!



evanbb
15/05/2009
10:21:49 AM
The pics look great, and the rock quite interesting. Found some similar rock in the Blueys, but the scale was all wrong. That looks pretty friendly.


>PS I found the Frontline crag at the Balkans in about 1995 and decided it was a pile.

Clearly your judgement has improved.
J.C.
16/05/2009
3:00:29 AM
pat reynolds & i believe shaun powell put up a bunch of problems there several years ago & i came through in about 03/04 but didnt do anything worthwhile. we had a few sessions down there last year since its about 800m from where i was living. theres much better stuff very close by, you should get in touch with pat to give you a tour

nmonteith
17/05/2009
10:19:03 PM
I just received this email from Kev Seymour

----------------
i have a little concern regarding the log posted today regarding the discovery of "bouldering in bannerman rd glenhaven". i'm all for new adventures but this one really caught my attention for reasons that largely are unknown to the general public. i have grown up not far from here and just by chance the office of the company for which i work is located in bannerman rd. which is why i am aware of the significance of this valley.

but getting to the point, the cliff and cave sites at bannerman rd are actually some of the last remaining aboriginal stencil and etched sites left intact and unaltered in the sydney area.
most discoveries of sites throughout the greater sydney area (largely the hornsby plateau through to the hawkesbury)were made known in the sixties and have since largley been destroyed.
the bannerman rd sites were discovered many years ago and have largely been kept a secret for fear they too would be damaged. these days very few significant cultural discoveries are made known to the public.

the bannerman rd stencils are on the register thus affording them full protection (and the fines are hefty according to one previous successful prosecution of an overzealous neighbouring developer).

the company i work for does faunal, floral and archeological assessment for all sorts of development and rehabilitation (and while we have'nt done one for the sites of bannerman rd and most likely will never be asked) i would highly doubt that bouldering or climbing on or near the sites would be permitted. in fact there is a paragraph which states it clearly in the legislation.

rocksinmyhead
18/05/2009
10:57:31 AM
Okay, that's a concern.

I've gone looking around Bannerman road for a local bouldering crag and yesterday I thought that Porkpie had helped to find my Eldorado.

There is a lot of rock in that valley, so I'm wondering if it's possible to boulder without disturbing the cultural sites.

Neil, is there any way you could confirm with Kev if he is talking about the same location
as Porkpie?

PS Josh, if Pat's available I'd love to go for a tour. How how would I get in touch?

PPS. I stumbled across both the Trenches and the Frontline around '87 - '88 but forgot about both of them as they weren't the rumored mega cliff we were searching for, to go...... (I'm blushing) ABSEILING!!!




porkpie
19/05/2009
9:42:29 AM
Glad I posted the info before I tried to develop the area as I was unaware of any Aboriginal significance. Thanks for the heads up - I will stick to the other great areas around the hills.

I would recommend everyone stays away from the area, the last thing we want is to upset land managers as they may then try to close the current climbing areas.

It is good that people are trying to preserve these areas but when they are so close suburbia it is only a matter of time before these areas are discovered (and rediscovered) and human impact occurs. There needs to be some way climbers can check the status of areas before developing a crag - not easy to do the when secrecy is the policy land managers use to 'protect' an area.

contactgav
19/05/2009
10:04:42 AM
i suggest that the 'representing bodies' for climbing like cliff care, climbing anchors etc, should put some money towards creating signage for this area, stating that all forms of climbing and abseiling is banned from this area.
with liasing with the council and any other appropriate bodies, the climbing commumity will be viewed inhigh esteem.

it costs about $25 to make the signs in steel and around $60 a pole and concrete

evanbb
19/05/2009
11:33:40 AM
On 19/05/2009 oldfella wrote:
>i suggest that the 'representing bodies' for climbing like cliff care,
>climbing anchors etc, should put some money towards creating signage for
>this area, stating that all forms of climbing and abseiling is banned from
>this area.
>with liasing with the council and any other appropriate bodies, the climbing
>commumity will be viewed inhigh esteem.
>
>it costs about $25 to make the signs in steel and around $60 a pole and
>concrete

I agree that would be a nice gesture from Cliffcare, but also suggest that those that discover such things have a duty of care to inform others as well. If it hadn't been mentioned in an obscure climbing forum, no-one would be any the wiser.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/05/2009
11:37:58 AM
Maybe those who have posted the more detailed access info on this thread, might like to amend their posts to more general information, to help preserve the location/s?

rodw
Online Now
19/05/2009
11:56:01 AM
On 19/05/2009 oldfella wrote:
>i suggest that the 'representing bodies' for climbing like cliff care,
>climbing anchors etc,

>it costs about $25 to make the signs in steel and around $60 a pole and
>concrete

Why not do it yourself, why ask them to do it...Im sure they got enough to do?

Better yet why dont the people who wish to preserve it put a sign up to protect graffeti from a bygone era, and not just use the head in sand technique for preservation.

wallwombat
19/05/2009
11:57:07 AM
On 19/05/2009 oldfella wrote:
>i suggest that the 'representing bodies' for climbing like cliff care,
>climbing anchors etc, should put some money towards creating signage for
>this area, stating that all forms of climbing and abseiling is banned from
>this area.


That would be a good idea, if not for the fact that Cliff Care is now defunct due to problems with liability insurance and Climbing Anchors is a online gear shop.

Sure, Climbing Anchors runs a rebolting fund but I don't believe it pretends to be a 'representative body for climbing' in any respect.

I haven't spoken to Steve about this but I'm pretty sure I'm correct on this point.

I imagine the closest thing in New South Wales to a 'representative body for climbing' is the Sydney Rockclimbing Club.


IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/05/2009
12:00:00 PM
wallwombat wrote;
>I imagine the closest thing in New South Wales to a 'representative body for climbing' is the Sydney Rockclimbing Club.

... some on CragX may disagree?
;-)
;-)
;-)
widewetandslippery
19/05/2009
12:08:21 PM
I think protection by not releasing knowledge of these pictographs is not in there best interests. If I found middens, pictographs etc at what looked good climbing I would remove them as to make sure climbing access was not threatend. I would assume there existance was not known.
Lee C
19/05/2009
12:10:27 PM
On 19/05/2009 wallwombat wrote:

>
>I imagine the closest thing in New South Wales to a 'representative body
>for climbing' is the Sydney Rockclimbing Club.
>
That is what this is all about www.climb.org.au

contactgav
19/05/2009
2:37:36 PM
On 19/05/2009 rodw wrote:
>On 19/05/2009 oldfella wrote:
>>i suggest that the 'representing bodies' for climbing like cliff care,
>>climbing anchors etc,
>
>>it costs about $25 to make the signs in steel and around $60 a pole and
>>concrete
>
>Why not do it yourself, why ask them to do it...Im sure they got enough
>to do?
>

i don't mind doing it myself. however wouldn't it be more appropriate to raise the issue / question with the wider climbing community first and then acting through the appropriate channels.

however you have a point that, perhaps those who want to preserve the area should do something about it.


wallwombat
19/05/2009
4:54:15 PM
On 19/05/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>wallwombat wrote;
>>I imagine the closest thing in New South Wales to a 'representative body
>for climbing' is the Sydney Rockclimbing Club.
>
>... some on CragX may disagree?
>;-)
>;-)
>;-)

I don't understand what you are trying to say here.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
19/05/2009
5:03:21 PM
Ah c'mon.
Everyone knows that climbing websites are self opinionated repositories that reflect all things regarding the greater good of climbers everywhere that they serve.
Chockstone serves Vic.
CragX serves NSW?

(heh, heh, huh?)


;-)

rodw
Online Now
19/05/2009
5:23:28 PM
Nah cragx serves to bolster my flaging ego...I have the power of the mighty moderator stick...anything else is supplementary to that aim.

hehehe x 50

wallwombat
19/05/2009
7:01:24 PM
On 19/05/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Ah c'mon.
>Everyone knows that climbing websites are self opinionated repositories
>that reflect all things regarding the greater good of climbers everywhere
>that they serve.
>Chockstone serves Vic.
>CragX serves NSW?

I know Chockstone is subtitled "Climbing in Victoria, Australia" but, whether it likes it or not, it is pretty much 'Climbing in Eastern Australia, south of the Queensland border'.

Quite often there are more threads, on the front page, pertaining to climbing in NSW than climbing in Victoria.

It's probably got a lot to do with sheer weight of numbers.

CragX is more of a site where you can let your hair down, say what is on your mind and call people c--ks.

And bag out RodW, the supreme overlord.
devlin66
19/05/2009
10:03:54 PM
You'd be surprised how many of us in SEQ lurk on here.

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There are 57 messages in this topic.

 

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