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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Bluffs (General) Bluff Major [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
Scorpion

foreverabumbly
4/03/2009
10:07:58 AM
Im pretty keen to jump on this, I know this might ruin my onsight but Ive heard a few conflicting thoughts on gear, from size 6 cam to RPs to protect the crux, so which is it? Im not keen on running it out more than is neccesary, I will be scared enough as it is.

Robb
4/03/2009
11:05:04 AM
gather you are talking about scorpion crack and not scorpion corner?
Scorpion crack # 4 camalot comes in handy and a couple of # 3 camalots.
awesome route.dont need rps.

foreverabumbly
4/03/2009
11:09:16 AM
yeah, scorpion cracks what Im thinking of, thanks for that Bambi.

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/03/2009
11:11:19 AM
Which crux?
Some who don't have their crack technique dialled may consider the upper half to be the crux instead of the bomb-bay start!
To date I have only seconded it, and had major trouble retrieving a large nut that was placed by leader to protect the move out of the bomb-bay. Mostly because I fell and weighted it!
I am pretty certain we did not take a # 6 cam, and if memory serves me correctly the leader debated over whether or not to take the # 5. In the end I don't think he took that either.

This climb is now on my 'to do list' (as a lead climb), as it was my introduction to Arapiles and I need to get back there!

foreverabumbly
4/03/2009
11:23:26 AM
On 4/03/2009 IdratherbeclimbingM9 wrote:
>Which crux?
>
>

lol, not really sure. I havnt climbed it yet so I dont know where the crux is.

Im after just adive on what gear to take bearing in mind 18 trad is getting pretty close to my onsight limit, if not past it!
So im kinda not interested in the 'I will get away with taking small stuff cause I will just cruze past the bigger placements" or " just run it out, its no drama" sort of answers. I am prepared to take up enough gear to lace it up, because I am a scaredy cat. When I eventually get on it; everyone will know because I will be crying.

Rather loudly.

wombly
4/03/2009
11:36:14 AM
I seem to recall the upper crack being just too wide for my mini hands to fist jam, so you might want something larger than a 3 camalot (i.e. 3.5-4) for the top. A # 5 would be overkill.

It's still one of the most memorable routes i've ever done.

Robb
4/03/2009
11:51:31 AM
yeah 3 camalot didnt fit in the upper crack. who needs gear when you gota bomber fist jam! thats where you can use the 4 camalot

IdratherbeclimbingM9
4/03/2009
12:01:09 PM
On 4/03/2009 foreverabumbly wrote:
>When I eventually get on it; everyone will know because I will be crying.
>
>Rather loudly.

With joy! ... because it is a worthy objective/great route.
Wendy
4/03/2009
12:25:00 PM
Take a few big (3, 3.5, 4 camalot) cams if you don't want to climb above your gear on the top crack - there's nothing much else there for a while. The chimney takes an assortment of normal sized gear. No idea why anyone mentioned RPs. You may like to test your gumption on old school 18s closer to the ground seeing it's pushing your limit - try Hyeana, Virginia, the Rack, Claw. Enjoy! It's spectacular.
Tlockwood
4/03/2009
12:55:06 PM
On 4/03/2009 Wendy wrote:
>Take a few big (3, 3.5, 4 camalot) cams

exactly what i had, safe as

pmonks
4/03/2009
4:02:26 PM
On 4/03/2009 Wendy wrote:
>You may like to test your gumption on old school 18s closer
>to the ground

Probably safer to push your limit up high, where the risk of a ground fall is lessened, don't you reckon? I'm usually more cautious on the first half of pitches that start off the ground for this exact reason...
Wendy
4/03/2009
4:32:25 PM
They are all well protected routes - no excuse for hitting the ground, plus you can get to the top if you need to bail off them and rap in and clean, and they don't involve 4 pitches of climbing just to get to them. Why increase you chances of an epic?
WM
4/03/2009
4:41:46 PM
the gear might be fine but the fact is that Hyaena for one deals out a lot more groundfalls than Scorpion ...
Wendy
4/03/2009
7:19:07 PM
no excuse for it though, if you can't plug gear in it every millimetre, you need some serious gear practice. Maybe people could mark an x below tiger wall before doing Scorpion so if they rip all their gear and the belay they have something to aim for. Actually, I haven't heard of any ground falls off Hyaena and considering it's a scramble to a mini pinnacle at 3m or so from which you can stand and place at least 3 pieces of gear before doing anything you'd be really hard pressed to hit the ground. All those climbs will appreciate the big cams though.

Sabu
Online Now
4/03/2009
7:28:16 PM
On 4/03/2009 Wendy wrote:
>Actually, I haven't heard of any
>ground falls off Hyaena and considering it's a scramble to a mini pinnacle
>at 3m or so from which you can stand and place at least 3 pieces of gear
>before doing anything you'd be really hard pressed to hit the ground. All
>those climbs will appreciate the big cams though.

I have, a little while ago a guy came off after resting on a cam (his only placement)
which subsequently popped.
WM
4/03/2009
9:09:00 PM
On 4/03/2009 Wendy wrote:
> I haven't heard of any ground falls off Hyaena

there's been at least 2 discussed on chockstone alone:

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=DisplayTopic&ForumID=5&MessageID=1825&PagePos=&Sort=&Replies=21&MsgPagePos=0

http://www.chockstone.org/Forum/Forum.asp?Action=Display&ForumID=6&MessageID=1551

foreverabumbly
10/03/2009
10:36:45 AM
On 4/03/2009 Wendy wrote:
>. Maybe people could mark an x below
>tiger wall before doing Scorpion so if they rip all their gear and the
>belay they have something to aim for.

This climb just keeps sounding better and better!!!

Thanks for the tips though Wendy, all the climbs you suggested are on my hit list too, and Ive been on hyaena already.
wogdog
10/03/2009
11:52:14 AM
a word from your master, When in doubt take everything!

howzithanging?
24/03/2009
6:01:16 PM
On 4/03/2009 Sabu wrote:
I have, a little while ago a guy came off after resting on a cam (his
only placement)
which subsequently popped.

Yeah i was belaying him... lucky he had a hard head ( not smart enough to wear a helmet)

freesolo
26/03/2009
9:31:13 PM
hey mate, if you're at the 18 limit, scorpion will be a real test. it's old school, crack and groveling part of the way. definitely one of the best routes at araps for any grade, but i say that cause i'm a crack climber.

i ran out the top cause the jams are bomber but you should bring one 3.5/4 camalot, but dont use it too early, be creative with gear when you come out of the "chimney area" back on to the face.

the move from the exposed stance at the beginning, getting into the chimney is physically pretty easy, but mentally pretty tough cause the gear only gets better after you do the move.

give a shout back here when you've done it and let everyone know. if you're obsesesed with onsighting and not enjoying the experience, you probably wont like the route.

you dont need anything small, i remember needing .5 to 1.5's and then one big cam.

one thing to keep in mind. your belayer wont be able to see you for 90% of the route and you wont be able to hear or see him when you are at the top. if you don't make it, you can lower down to the anchors on the 22, climb missing link, rap down and get your gear.

i'm jealous wish i was there to do it again.

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 21
There are 21 messages in this topic.

 

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