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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Buffalo Eurobin Falls (General) (General) [ Eurobin Falls Guide ] 

Author
rap station at top of eurobin falls?

gordoste
22/12/2008
12:43:59 PM
The new guide indicates there is a rap station at the top of the falls, on the left side (the photo topo shows it at the top of a grade 12 pitch, just underneath a big hanging block). We were up there yesterday and couldn't find anything. Has anyone seen it? I would be interested in putting one there because the walkdown is about 40 minutes of bushbashing, some of it through very thick fernage.
mikl law
22/12/2008
1:19:01 PM
assume the new guide isn't always correct. But I vaguely remember one
Adding/replacing rap stations would be excellent.
jgoding
22/12/2008
1:19:18 PM
Hi,

yes there is a rap near the top of Eurobin Fall (but it's in very poor condition and needs replacing
badly!). I'll try and find you a photo showing it's location. It might not be where you think it is however
(from memory it's not at the very top of the cliff but on a ledge at about 3/4 height).

There are actually two raps which take you to the ground. Both are some of the worst bolts I've ever
rapped off (with the exception of the ones on top of "pocket full of dreams" at Muline in the
Grampians). They are mild steel carrots (the bash in kind) which after being in running water for about
20-30 years are looking very less than ideal! there is also nothing around which you can back them up
with.

Someone needs to replace them!!!

Regards,


Josef
WM
22/12/2008
2:06:32 PM
I was up there before that topo came out, so we didn't expect a rap anchor up there and certainly didn't see one. But we also didn't go within 15m of that capping block so its entirely possible there's one there

The walk down was fine though, only about 10-15 minutes and nothing all that thick - which side of the crag did you descend?
jgoding
22/12/2008
9:09:39 PM
Hi, here is where the rap is (not quite at the top of the cliff):




and the one below...
looking at it from the rap above...

and up close - YUK!
WM
22/12/2008
9:38:54 PM
Hey Joe you were nowhere near the top - it's another pitch and a half (~75m) from there to the top. See the blue circle in this pic. Green circle is Llafnwod's rap anchor atop p1, red circle is where the guidebook topo says the top anchors should be


gordoste
22/12/2008
9:49:43 PM
haha looking at your photos joe i think maybe the walkdown was the better option! The capping block i'm talking about is in the very top right of your first photo, and it's probably about 80m higher than the ledge that guy is standing on.
The advantage of having a rap station where it's marked in the guide is that you can protect the right-facing corner that leads to it (as opposed to soloing an unprotected polished slab). That pitch is marked in the guide as the 3rd pitch of Llfanwod.
It looks like it would be 4 raps to get all the way down from the very top. There's a really nice double waterfall and swimming pool right at the very top (marked "The Bath" in the guide). I would guess that not many people have been there because it seems many people rap off Mother Of Pearl from where you did.
We walked down on the L (looking out) as the guide suggested.

freesolo
23/12/2008
12:14:18 PM
rapped off that stuff a few years ago. the topmost anchor is down a little from the top "walking ledge", and the mid-point rap is very manky.

never even thought of walking down. if i was in Oz, i'd donate some crust for some new hardware.
larryfranklin
25/12/2008
9:58:37 PM
On 22/12/2008 gordoste wrote:
>haha looking at your photos joe i think maybe the walkdown was the better
>option! The capping block i'm talking about is in the very top right of
>your first photo, and it's probably about 80m higher than the ledge that
>guy is standing on.
>The advantage of having a rap station where it's marked in the guide is
>that you can protect the right-facing corner that leads to it (as opposed
>to soloing an unprotected polished slab). That pitch is marked in the guide
>as the 3rd pitch of Llfanwod.
>It looks like it would be 4 raps to get all the way down from the very
>top. There's a really nice double waterfall and swimming pool right at
>the very top (marked "The Bath" in the guide). I would guess that not many
>people have been there because it seems many people rap off Mother Of Pearl
>from where you did.
>We walked down on the L (looking out) as the guide suggested.

my legs are still recovering from that bloody walk out!!!! if i was to climb it again i'd take an inflatable tube and ride the falls to a death less painfull!!!
jgoding
26/12/2008
7:27:11 AM
Thanks Will & Steve for the clarification.

Sounds like we should sink some quality stainless and sort this out.

gordoste
26/12/2008
10:02:01 PM
If you get to it before i do, i'd suggest putting the top anchor on the actual capping block instead of on the slab. That way the bolts would be protected from the weather and also pulling the rope would be a lot easier than if they're on the slab, which rolls over until you can walk around on it in hiking boots.

There are 11 messages in this topic.

 

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