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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Northern Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Northern Walls [ Grampians Guide | Images ] 

Author
Genuine Wage Overhang beta
kieranl
9/02/2005
10:45:49 PM
Do not read on if you don't want to know anything about the gear on this climb.

We had most of a set of tube chocks, 4, 5, 5.5 and 6. I would think you could get by with some large cams and some bigbros for the bigger sizes.
After the easy start there is a rest below the first bulge. We used a stick from the rest to place the 4 tube on the bulge - very awkward, especially without tape to lash the tube to the stick. I would think you would be able to avoid the stick drop by using large cams but, if not, it might be better finding a longer stick so you can place the tube from the ground.
From there the crack gets progressively wider and you just work your way through the rack until it eases off and you can place a piece or two in the sides of the crack.
We didn't have a 4.5 tube so the next placement after the 4 was #11 and #10 hexes stacked together.
I just went to put my tubes in a bag ready for Wendy and I can't lay my hands on my #6 tube. I'll have another look for it later. Hope I haven't lost it. There's still no 4.5 tube in there, that's in Layback and Think of England.
Wendy
14/02/2005
4:18:48 PM
Put 3 raving lunatics together, gather all the big gear you can get, throw in Mt Stapylton and you get a thoroughly exhausting day of off widthing. If youíve ever been to the Kindergarten, you must have blinkers to have not noticed the crack through the roof. Thatís the line. Stock up on big gear and gumption and go for it. Itís a fantastic climb, weíve decided to up the grade to 20 and add a few stars.

I carried all Kieranís tubes, my big cams, plus a few others, totaling 15 bits of gear larger than a 3 camalot! But really, you donít need that much Ö 1 of everything from 3 camalot to 6 wild country plus a few wires and small cams for the top chimney. You can leave Kieranís tubes at home if you have all of that! But good on him for placing them Ö thereís a few places I wouldnít have wanted to hang around to place them! Whilst youíre up there with all that gear, you may as well round off the day with Clicke Crack and Layback and Think of England. These are also good value at 20 and worth some stars. If you can still move after all of that, stagger home for some well earned beer.






nmonteith
Online Now
14/02/2005
5:11:13 PM
You guys are sick puppies... awesome! I have always looked at that line and wondered how many repeats it has had.
kieranl
14/02/2005
5:27:21 PM
Great stuff Wendy. Good to see some shots of people on this and to know that I can retire my tubes.
WM
14/02/2005
5:43:51 PM
Looks just like a route called Transcendental Meditation at Zig Zag (Blueys), which you guys would also like....

Which reminds me about the monk who refused to have an anaesthetic for his tooth extraction. He was trying to transcend dental medication.
gfdonc
14/02/2005
9:47:43 PM
Will gets the Award of the Month for the best self-setup for the punchline there!
hairy1
2/07/2007
2:31:41 PM
i realise this is digging up a thread a couple of years later...anywho

we did Genuine Wage Overhang a couple of days ago....

would agree with the grade & stars - around 20 seems right - its a unique and interesting climb - which from the looks of it, has recieved minimal traffic over the years. Its also less thrutchy/horrendous than it appears from the ground - less so than say electra.

In terms of the gear I had two #4 camalots - this was insuffient - I was runout 5m+ by the time i got up in to the innards of the chimney to place more gear! ... Two #4 and 1x #5 camalot would suffice for the wide bit i reckon


nmonteith
Online Now
2/07/2007
3:38:07 PM
its the last on my list of wide cracks to do at Stapylton.... i just need to convince someone to go up
there!

JamesMc
2/07/2007
9:10:47 PM
I wonder if this route is a candidate for retro bolting?? Of course it would be up to Kieran. The fact is that most of us don't own / can't afford the gear, and if it was bolted it might be popular.

James Mc

nmonteith
Online Now
2/07/2007
10:23:39 PM
On 2/07/2007 JamesMc wrote:
>I wonder if this route is a candidate for retro bolting??

No way! Its easy to scrounge up the required gear. If Tim can do it with a couple of #4s then its gotta be
ok.
TLockwood
3/07/2007
7:48:18 PM
looks like good fun! reminds me of five fingered mary. only longer, harder :)
kieranl
5/07/2007
9:06:36 PM
No James, retro-bolting this would be silly. We had good protection for this crack almost 30 years ago (OK stacked hexes aren't a great idea but they're not required).
I'd prefer to leave it as one of those good climbs that's a bit weird and is a special experience.
btw Have you done Clicke Crack? I tried it for the first time recently and got badly spanked on the start.
hairy1
6/07/2007
9:15:25 AM
my climbing partner had a similar experience on clicke crack - got completely shut down on the start - She's pretty handy with these sorts of things usually. Has anyone actually climbed it/knows how to?

nmonteith
Online Now
6/07/2007
10:35:33 AM
Clicke Crack - i did it on my 'wide crack day' about a year ago. I don't remember it being that bad, two fist
crack moves that were a little steep at the start then it was fine to finish. Didn't feel harder than 19 to
me? Territorial Imperative & Layback ad Think of Engalnd were the other routes i did that day!

JamesMc
6/07/2007
5:16:57 PM
Hi Kieran,
I did climbed Clique years ago. Managed the start OK (foothold on the arete) then got scared because I couldn't protect the upper part. Perhaps I should have taken more hexes to stack.

It was a warm day and there was a pleasant cool breeze blowin out of the crack, quite unusual.

James

There are 15 messages in this topic.

 

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