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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 1 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 26
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Grampians Victoria Range Red Rocks (General) [ Red Rocks Guide | Images ] 

Red Rocks, Grampians updates

7:23:52 PM
Hey ho,

does anyone know

1. the name and grade of the line of rings left of Conflict of Interest?

2. if the route left of vertebrae is still a project (name and grade?)


10:07:24 AM
left of conflict of interest is a line of rings sharing the same lower off,
right of red ragging

10:20:51 AM
>2. if the route left of vertebrae is still a project (name and grade?)

That is "Get What You Paid For" 15m 23. All bolts aprt from one optional cam placment after the first bolt. It has a lower-off!

10:21:49 AM

10:24:35 AM
r the 2 lines of unfinished dyno bolts
near the skull cave
a lost cause??

4:24:51 PM
On 31/01/2005 swampy wrote:
>r the 2 lines of unfinished dyno bolts
>near the skull cave
>a lost cause??

Do you mean in the chasm you access by scrambling up near there?

4:46:02 PM
On 31/01/2005 swampy wrote:
>r the 2 lines of unfinished dyno bolts
>near the skull cave
>a lost cause??

i have no idea what you are talking about?? Where exactly in relation to the skull cave? Where are they in relation to Wave of Mutlilation/Spinal Tap/Platypus Condom??

5:20:39 PM
Here are the proper descriptions for the four new routes done recently...

Red Rocks, Victoria Range

Get What You Paid For 15m 23 (sport route)
Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH’s and a u-bolt lower-off. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two. FFA Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert 4.12.2004

Sweat of Effort 20m 23
Prominent leftwards leaning line on west facing wall 30m south of Vertebrae. Bulgy Arapiles style rock. Awkward slabby closed corner to start then pumpy traversing to finish. Good gear but needs a bit of a clean. FFA Malcolm Matheson & Neil Monteith 12.12.2004

* Dang 9m 20 (sport route)
An alternative first pitch to Redback. Starts 10m down and left of Conflict of Interest at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH’s. Belay on ledge with natural gear. Scramble off to the right (roped) or continue upwards into Redback – grade 25. FFA Neil Monteith & Malcolm Matheson 12.12.2004

* Full Metal Vengeance 25m 23 (sport route)
This one’s for Justin Thyme. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for Conflict of Interest on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI’s first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB’s to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren’t feeling bold. FFA Neil Monteith & Jono Schimdt 2.1.2005
7:18:49 PM
all these routes have been on the VCC new routes page for about a month - how about checking there before creating redundant threads!?

7:56:55 PM
But that would mean we would get back to work quicker!!!

10:22:52 AM
up past the slab routes,
as u walk to the skull cave,
to the right is another orange coloured cave,
above at about half height is a headless bolt,
then go through this cave turn right and there are 2 more headless bolts.
thought they were yours neil.

11:19:41 AM
?? i still have no idea what these bolts are! - where in relation to the Marianus Trench are they - further uphill? Where on this dodgy map are these bolts?

12:11:16 PM
on the eastern block on your map,
if thats the block with the orange cave that you can climb through.
they're (1 bolt) on the northern side (just as it goes to slab)
and on the western side, cnr leads left onto face, 2 bolts.

12:54:50 PM
very interesting.. i know the area but they certainly are not my bolts! I havn't been up that way for a year or so. I did hear on the rumour vine that some NSW climbers had top-roped a few new things on those blocks. It was 'covered' in chalk apparently.

5:49:41 PM
Not mine either. I think I know the area you mean though.


12:07:08 PM
Some Red Rocks updates... three new routes.

Gandolf the Grey 17m 17
On the black slab opposite Static Ticking Rampage, the right hand side line past 1 UB and 4 FH. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off. FFA Ben Hawthorne and Hugh Williams, Feb 2005.

Bellrock 17m 21
2m left of Gandolf the Grey. Up the line past 3 FH. A thin crux through the bulge and finish up the arête as for Gandolf the Grey. May be easier if you are tall. FFA Ben Hawthorne and Hugh Williams, Feb 2005.

Kentucky Fried Clippin’ 8m 20
Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arête opposite Vertabrae. Three FH’s. Walk back to tree belay. FFA Kent Paterson & Neil Monteith 12.3.2005

I also checked out the mystery bolts above the Trench. Someone obviously bolted something too hard for them and decided to leave it. The lower of the two routes looks plainly impossible from the ground. Why did they bother? - and why didn't they remove their bolts and patch the holes! The upper route with three bolt studs is a good line which looks possible.

On a disapointing note I found two piles of human shit/paper at Red Rocks in plain few. One was directly underneath Vertabrae and the other was on the track up to Fat Fingered Freak. There was no attempt to bury the shit. Very ugly!

9:50:59 AM
A couple of new routes done on the weekend. These are all at the MARIANAS TRENCH area.

Over And Out 12m 18 [trad]
Wide overhung trench 4m right of Used Platypus Condom. No wide trad gear required. Surprisingly
steep and interesting. Walk off descent.
FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 10.12.2005

Raver Girl 15m 20 * [mixed]
A pumpy rising traverse on gritty rock. Starts 5m right of Over And Out at right edge of undercut grey
wall. Boulder past FH to gain horizontals. Monkey leftwards across these (medium SLCD’s) to a flake
forming an arête. Up this arete (FH) to finish. Walk off descent.
FFA Hannah Lockie & Neil Monteith 10.12.2005

Raver Boy 11m 21 * [ruined sport route]
A thin direct finish to Raver Girl. Climb past first FH to horizontals. Arrange pro (medium SLCD's) and
head rightwards on thin crimpers past FH to good holds. Up juggy wall past 3rd FH to top. Walk off
FFA Neil Monteith & Hannah Lockie 10.12.1005

3:17:11 PM
Hey Neil what do you mean "ruined sport route"?

3:19:22 PM
You have to place 1 or 2 bits of gear and the rest is bolts! Gym junkies keep telling me that i am ruining
potential sport classics by leaving single bits of trad...

4:28:49 PM
awww ditto :P !!!

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There are 26 messages in this topic.


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