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Crag & Route Beta

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Author

Wolgan aid climbs

fish boy

29-Aug-2008
9:36:41 PM

Wanting to head there very soon. Want long and adventurous aid routes, choss is not preffered but fine if it's still fun, clean only or things that will go clean..which gets me to an important question.

Fever 15 M6 has been written up by macca (who I cannot work out how to get incontact with) and it sounds good....

climberman is helping out on the guide front, I just need to know what to get him to copy for me.

Cheers, Nick


Chuck Norris

29-Aug-2008
9:51:32 PM

clear your pm box fish boy


wallwombat

29-Aug-2008
10:20:00 PM

If Fever is Vera Wong's big aid route up there, I think it involved nailing.

The Original Route on Big Glassy looks fantastic but, again, it involves nailing. The crux goes on knife blades.

Talk to Mousey, if you want to get in contact with Macciza. He'll sort you out.

Nick

30-Aug-2008
9:31:20 AM

hey

clark kent and superman both go clean at exploding galaxies
both are stellar routes.

let me know when your coming up, im always keen for some whack and dangle.

Nick


dr box

30-Aug-2008
11:31:51 AM

when are you coming up nick?
i can get you a guide pretty easily, and know a few people that have been there quite a bit
were you planning to tell me?
need a place to stay?

bits

fish boy

30-Aug-2008
9:30:03 PM

Box cleared stu. I had a beer with you before one of Glenn Robbins slide show last year in the geological society in melbs...anyway....you wouldnt remeber. I await eagerly.

Wallwomabat, when I read clim.org.au, the rack mentioned implied Fever was clean but maybe not. I will need some pins then I spose....

WIll do Nick.

Bits, this is planning for perhaps 4-6 weeks time. Gotta sort parteners etc...the guide I need is an old one dude with aid in it as the new one doesn't I believe. cman has me sorted. I was planning to tell you I spose...you wanna aid? It's boring and scary. Place to stay will be on the rock...you will come and I will tell you when,

Thanks, NIck


wallwombat

30-Aug-2008
9:41:50 PM

You are after the old Andrew Penney guide. It's excellent.

I could be wrong about Fever but I think it's a Vera Wong route that has a crux that involves nailing out a huge chossy roof. Hmmm. Lots of spicy fun.

fish boy

30-Aug-2008
9:46:48 PM

Penney's the one ww.

I dont like choss much, but I DO like chossy roofs.


wallwombat

30-Aug-2008
9:55:00 PM

I think you will be as happy as a pig in poo, then.

Nick

31-Aug-2008
12:13:25 AM

On 30/08/2008 fish boy wrote:
>I dont like choss much, but I DO like chossy roofs.

you would love the climb sword of damocles 16M5. It has an awsome chossy roof, easier now the sword has fallen off

Nick


Macciza

8-Oct-2008
11:05:13 PM

On 30/08/2008 fish boy wrote:
>Wallwomabat, when I read clim.org.au, the rack mentioned implied Fever
>was clean but maybe not. I will need some pins then I spose....
>
Umm maybe you should re-read it - You will need a few pins, but what size?
Fever 270m 15 M6
Major Aid climb on the left-side of the wall via a shallow corner in the smooth orange wall capped by a
large roof.
Gear: 8 knifeblades, 5 Lost Arrows. 3 Baby Angles, 2 bathooks, 1 skyhook; Double Cams to 2.5 1
each larger, Rack of RPs, Rack of Nuts and tie-offs
From base of major arching corner left of the middle of the wall
FA: Andrew McAuley and Vera Wong (alt)
FA Date: 20-03-1994

Big Glassy Corner aka The Great Untoothed - is 18 M5 but we are hoping it may be a free candidate ;-]
Big Glassy is 20 M7 with serious nailing and runouts apparently. Not been there yet

We hope to get out there soon for a shot at a few things down that neck of the woods, so maybe we
should hook up for one of the aid climbs or something new.
Likewise all other interested parties. Maybe a bit of a Wolg-a-thon is in order.
Hey Neilo, it would be good to have you along for shots as well - hoping to get Mousey too . . .

The 'new' Wolgan guide is pretty good too.
Cheers
Macca

fish boy

8-Oct-2008
11:36:34 PM

I must have glanced over the details in excitment...

Big glassy sounds the goods....

Nick

ErikaH

9-Oct-2008
12:32:24 PM

I'm always keen for time out in the wolgon....however, I'm dubious over chossy aid climbs....happy to trad it if some people are going out.


evanbb

9-Oct-2008
12:54:29 PM

On 8/10/2008 Macciza wrote:
>The 'new' Wolgan guide is pretty good too.

How new Macca? The Wade Stephens guide from about 04?

Wollemi

9-Oct-2008
1:35:22 PM

'new' is code for 04, evan

Owen D

9-Oct-2008
1:50:10 PM

I just moved to Sydney from WA and am dead keen for Wolgan if anyone needs a partner. I'm up for aid or new routes or whatever. ord@ah.com.au

ErikaH

9-Oct-2008
5:28:51 PM

Evan are you climbing again now?


Macciza

9-Oct-2008
9:17:45 PM

On 9/10/2008 evanbb wrote:
>On 8/10/2008 Macciza wrote:
>>The 'new' Wolgan guide is pretty good too.
>
>How new Macca? The Wade Stephens guide from about 04?
>

Yeah, that guide - 'that' being code for 'new' being code for '04' as in not old, savvy . . .

Looks like I'll have to do a Wolg-a-thon in Nov/Dec then with all this interest . . .
The last 'Dogathon' was a hoot - I just hope more people do more than just drive down and vomit . . .
Lets start chucking some dates around for some "Chock-ya-Wolgan Extravaganza's" . . .
How's about the 31/9 to the 3/10 weekend for a starter - week after BA@Lindfield - Anybody keen?
Macciza


wallwombat

9-Oct-2008
9:33:36 PM

On 9/10/2008 Macciza wrote:
>The last 'Dogathon' was a hoot - I just hope more people do more than just drive down and vomit . . .

Yeah, yeah yeah....I blame the Katoomba pies for that.

widewetandslippery and I were fine until we pied up on Main Street.

Mind you, the numerous beers we consumed the night before may not have helped.

Anyway, count me in and I reckon WW&S will be interested to. He has a new #6 Camalot that I know he's itching to use.


Macciza

9-Oct-2008
9:41:23 PM

On 9/10/2008 wallwombat wrote:
>
>Yeah, yeah yeah....I blame the Katoomba pies for that.
>
I was just picturing several carloads of climbers doing a repeat in the campground . . ;-}
>
>Mind you, the numerous beers we consumed the night before may not have helped.
>
It may have just been that last one though, try to to avoid the last one when possible . . .
>
>Anyway, count me in and I reckon WW&S will be interested too.
>
Excellent - I love it when people 'volunteer' for stuff - Mousey and Neilo are taking shots . . .

There are 45 messages in this topic.