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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Arapiles The Bluffs (General) Bluff Major [ Arapiles Guide | Arapiles Images ] 

Author
*Goodbye to All That (20)
kieranl
9/11/2010
2:28:54 PM
Hi Steve,

As I said before, I'm fine with adding a bolt (or two) to the first bit. I'm sure it will still be pretty exciting.
gfdonc
16/11/2010
11:34:26 PM
The top two carrots of Goodbye to All That/Karma Sutra have been chopped and replaced with SS FH's as near as practical to the original holes (we couldn't get them out). The holes have been patched with epoxy and sand.

The top part of the route got a brief brushing to remove lichen from the key holds. It's now good to go, except for the original issue about the pro near the start.

Unfortunately my access rope got removed from Missing Link by a friend whose intentions were good, only 5 minutes before I got back there this afternoon to finish the job. (Yes I'd just lugged drill+rope+gear up Alis). So any extra pro will have to wait.
mikllaw
Online Now
17/11/2010
12:55:43 PM
On 16/11/2010 gfdonc wrote:
>Unfortunately my access rope got removed from Missing Link by a friend
>whose intentions were good, only 5 minutes before I got back there this
>afternoon to finish the job. (Yes I'd just lugged drill+rope+gear up Alis).
>So any extra pro will have to wait.

The effort is a small sacrifice to Hammertone, the God of Successful rebolting, this is always required at some stage during a rebolt. You should also be careful to appease Makitapincha, the God of power drill thefts, by dropping your only drill bit the first time you walk up there.

Twice I walked out to the top of Hotel California, rapped down 150m and found I'd left either the bit or the battery in the car. If you're angry enough it's only a 55 minute trip to jumar out and run there and back and rap. This was enough sacrifice to allow me to complete the bolting with minor incidents afterwards
gfdonc
17/11/2010
1:39:51 PM
The full story was better than I let on.

I got back from doing a couple of routes in Voodoo gully, grabbed a bite to eat, loaded up the pack with all the gear and another rope. Ran up the hill, put climbing shoes on, soloed up Alis and was walking up the last bit when I realised I'd left the drill bit in the car. Shit.

I dropped the pack - contemplated walking the last 50m to drop it at the bottom of Missing Link but figured it was a waste of effort - went back down the chains, changed shoes again, ran back to the Pines, back to the car, grabbed both drill bits to be sure, back up again, and just when I reached my pack I bumped into my mate with my rope around his back.

Of course if I'd walked the extra 50m he would have seen my pack there and left the rope in place. Aint that a bitch? What else I do need to do to appease Makitapincha?
mikllaw
Online Now
17/11/2010
4:12:25 PM
I reckon that's a worthy sacrifice!
gfdonc
7/03/2011
9:19:37 AM
The bolting gods were smiling on Saturday, and I got back to complete the works.
With Kieran's consent, GTAT now has a bolt (FH) on the initial wall that avoids what would be a very serious fall and is enough to protect the traverse into Scorpion. There's also now less vegetation.

This route is really great, deserves two stars in its current state. Best done as two pitches. The original Kama Sutra bolts are still there at the end of the traverse (so take one or two bolt plates). The top could still use a bit more brushing or some traffic.
Enjoy.
kieranl
7/03/2011
11:10:54 AM
Thanks Steve. I'll have to get out and do it again.
Wendy
9/05/2011
2:34:12 PM
Did this yesterday and it was great. The gear is now completely fine, although the start is still a little bouldery, with a chance of hitting the ledge before the bolt if you didn't pull of the last move. Not that I was particularly worried about it. The 2nd pitch of KS is a really well protected now with micro wires between the bolts and more gear not far after. It's even pretty clean and produces fantastic little lipped edges just where you need them.

As an aside, i think KS is a 3 star route now.

 Page 2 of 2. Messages 1 to 20 | 21 to 28
There are 28 messages in this topic.

 

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