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Chockstone Forum - Crag & Route Beta

Crag & Route Beta

Area Location Sub Location Crag Links
VIC Southwest You Yangs Corio Ridge (General) [ You Yangs Guide | Images ] 

Author
Blood on the tracks

westie
11/10/2007
3:07:09 PM
heya,

Anybody done this climb at the (much maligned) You Yangs recently. Its a rising traverse of about 15 metres or so. The first section is fine but then you head around the corner of the tor and the feet are appalling - barely a crystal to smear on and a cheese grater textured handcrack. I left a smear of blood from my knuckles most of the length of the crack. Grade 18 my arse. I defy anyone so grade it such. comments?
adamk
11/10/2007
3:41:45 PM
If it's the climb i am thinking of (Harold u could probably confirm i think i did it with u and Jeff one day). I'd say it's an 18. There is a pretty good stance where you can load up the handcrack above the footless section with gear before you head across it. Once confident with your gear you can just monkey across and before to long get to good feet again. Tricky but def not harder than 18.

On 11/10/2007 westie wrote:
I
>left a smear of blood from my knuckles most of the length of the crack.

It's granite and the youies...bloodshed is a requisite

harold
11/10/2007
4:18:42 PM
Welcome to granite crack climbing westie. Yep, thats the climb Adam. Once your technique gets better these climbs will feel much easier and will not require the blood sacrifice. You may even start to enjoy climb cracks. Until then just remember, skin grows back.

Rupert
11/10/2007
6:18:39 PM
Had a similar experience on it the first time I climbed it. Blood, sweat, cursing. I swore it was about 22 at the time. Then you go off to other areas in the Youies and learn how to stand on "imaginary" footholds and suddenly its gets easier! I thought 18 was pretty accurate. The crack is pretty secure and the exit is straightforward. Not having climbed there for a while, I bet I'd be bleeding, sweating and cursing all over again if I climbed it now. "I'm sure there were more footholds last time..."

benhev
12/10/2007
3:04:32 PM
I think my first time on it I was climbing with you Rupert?
I did it again recently. Reach out from the arete to place gear, then scurry across. Very good. And there doesn't have to be any blood lost... 18 is about right.

Ben

steph
12/10/2007
3:26:14 PM
Depending on your technique & preffered climbing style, you might find most Youies climbs seem a little hard for the grade. I remember ages ago making an absolute mess of Springtime for Hitler (18 from memory) at the same time making a mess of my fingers. The rock takes a lot of getting used to, very delicate and painful especially on cold days.

westie
12/10/2007
4:19:24 PM
On 12/10/2007 benhev wrote:
And there doesn't have to be any blood lost...
>18 is about right.
>
>Ben

Why is it that so few people can admit it - "shit that was a hard climb" easy to say and nobody who matters thinks any less of you. Maybe that was the trick - reach out jam in 2- 3 pieces then off you go. While in the area -did anyone check out the group of boulders on top of the hill above Corio Ridge tor? There was a large boulder with one bolt in it (not in the guide) up the very top of the ridge. Anyone know anything about this?

cruze
12/10/2007
4:43:07 PM
Take the good with the bad. Some you might find hard (while others find it easy), others you will find easy (while they will struggle). "Monkeying around" on jams sounds like the type of climb that will divide would-be ascentionists.

At the end of the day you are never going to be able to compare that type of climb to, say, Vanderholics, Eternity, Skink, etc which are all classic climbs at the same nominal grade with different styles.

gordoste
12/10/2007
6:24:02 PM
vanderholics is so much easier than any trad 18.

There are 9 messages in this topic.

 

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